Hunting & Trapping

To ensure proficiency and safety when using body-gripping traps, follow these steps:

1. Review local regulations regarding the use of body-gripping traps to understand legal requirements and restrictions.
2. Study trapping techniques through books, videos, or classes to learn proper placement and handling methods.
3. Practice setting traps in a controlled environment, such as a safe area away from public access or non-target animals.
4. Familiarize yourself with trap mechanics, including how they operate and how to release captured animals safely.
5. Develop skills in identifying target species to avoid capturing non-target wildlife, especially pets.
6. Understand the ethical responsibilities of trapping, including minimizing animal suffering and ensuring humane handling.

Important Considerations:
• Always prioritize safety when practicing with live traps.
• Never practice in areas where non-target animals may be present unless you have taken measures to prevent accidental capture.
• Ensure that all equipment is in good working condition before use.

Materials Needed:
• A sturdy pole or log
• Strong rope or chain
• A heavy weight (e.g., rock, log)
• A trigger mechanism (e.g., stick, string)
• Bait (optional, e.g., food, scent attractant)

Steps to Construct a Deadfall:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where animals are likely to pass, such as near trails, feeding areas, or water sources.
2. **Set Up the Main Structure:
- Place the pole horizontally across two sturdy supports (e.g., trees) at a height that allows the animal to trigger it.
- Secure the ends of the pole to the supports using rope or chain.
3. Attach the Weight:
- Hang a heavy weight from one end of the pole, ensuring it is positioned so that when triggered, it will fall and strike the target.
4. **Create the Trigger Mechanism:
- Use a stick or string to create a tripwire or pressure plate that activates the deadfall when stepped on.
- Ensure the trigger is sensitive enough to activate with minimal disturbance but not so sensitive that it triggers accidentally.
5. Test and Adjust:
- Test the deadfall by simulating an animal's movement to ensure it functions properly.
- Make adjustments as needed for sensitivity, positioning, or effectiveness.
6. Optional Baiting (for Bait Set Deadfalls):
- Place bait near the trigger mechanism to attract animals to the area and increase the likelihood of triggering the deadfall.

Notes:
• Different types of deadfalls may be tailored for specific animals, such as otters or martens, by adjusting location, height, and sensitivity.
• The "Pinch Head" variation involves a more refined trigger mechanism to ensure precise activation.

Objective: Construct a cubby set to trap mink and muskrats on sloping banks where pocket sets are not feasible.

Steps:
1. Identify a sloping bank with tracks indicating furbearer activity.
2. Build the cubby using rocks, logs, or old boards, creating a small enclosure.
3. Make a depression at the entrance of the cubby to place the trap.
4. Place bait or lure at the back of the cubby to attract animals.
5. Insert a foothold trap into the depression and bed it firmly.
6. Use a submersion trapping technique with either a slide wire or tangle stake for secure deployment.

Notes:
• Ensure the trap is stable and does not wobble.
• Cubby sets are particularly useful in areas where the bank slopes too much for traditional pocket sets.

General Considerations for Trapping Animals

Knowing a few general hints and tips will make the trapping of animals easier and considerably more effective. The eight general considerations to take game are:

1. Know your game: Knowing the habits of the animal you want to trap or snare will help increase your chances. Such things as when and where they move, feed, and water will help you determine where the set can be most effectively placed.

2. Keep things simple: You don't have time in a survival situation to construct elaborate sets and they do not necessarily do a better job.

3. Place sets in the right place: Animals will travel and stop in certain locations. That is where to build sets.

4. Cover up your scent: Animals will avoid a set which smells threatening or unusual to them (i.e., human scent or P.O.L.’s from equipment or clothing).
- Man leaves a scent through the pores of the skin by the sweat glands. Use an odorless contact glove when building a set. It may take up to three days for your scent to dissipate if made without gloves.
- Certain boot soles and clothing may leave a scent, generally this can be detected by the human nose. If noticed, attempt to mask the scent with smoke from your fire.

5. Use the right type of set: Certain sets work better than others do for a particular animal.

6. Use the correct equipment: Using the correct equipment is paramount to success. This includes the weight of the lifting device in proportion to the animal’s weight, the cordage or wire to hold the animal’s strength, and trigger tension.

7. Check sets: Check your sets twice daily: morning and evening. Checking your traps less than twice a day can allow your game to escape, rot, or be taken by other predators.

8. Lure your sets: Lures will add to your chances of success. Certain lures are appropriate at certain times of the year, depending upon the animal desired.
- Bait Lures:
- MRE peanut butter, cheese spread, or jelly.
- Dead carcasses.
- Dead rodents.
- Gland or Territorial Lures:
- Animal urine mixed with beaver castors or animal glands.
- Curiosity Lures:
- Single feather, bird wing, piece of fur tied and suspended under a tree limb, allowed to freely move with the breeze.

General Techniques to Kill Animals Using the SICK Acronym

A general technique is the method in which the trap is intended to kill the animal. The acronym SICK is useful in remembering these techniques:

• S - Strangle: This method strangles the animal, such as a snare.
• I - Impale: This method pushes a stake through the animal, such as a spiked dead fall.
• C - Crush: This method crushes the animal, such as a deadfall for a chipmunk.
• K - Knock: This method knocks a larger animal unconscious, such as a deadfall.

### Selecting Effective Lures for Trapping Based on Season and Animal Behavior

Overview:
Lure selection depends on the time of year, target species, and animal behavior.

Key Considerations:
• Food lures are most effective in the early part of the trapping season when animals are actively seeking food.
• Gland lures become more important later in the season as animals begin looking for mates.
• Curiosity lures may work at any time, especially when the animal is not hungry or searching for a mate.

Specific Applications:
• Urine lures are particularly effective for trapping foxes and coyotes. These animals mark their territory by urinating on objects, which triggers territorial responses in other animals.
• Urine can be used to attract animals to your trap set by mimicking natural marking behavior.

Best Practices:
• Use a combination of lure types depending on the season and target species.
• Avoid overusing any single type of commercial lure, as animals may become accustomed to its scent and avoid it.
• Consider making your own lures for increased effectiveness and variety.

Additional Notes:
• The use of bait, lure, and urine should be tailored based on the time of year, location, and target species.
• Non-target species or domestic animals may be attracted to your set, which can reduce trapping success and create problems.
• Refer to Appendix A for guidance on selecting appropriate lures and baits for specific furbearers.

Channel Set:

• Identify underwater paths called channels used by muskrat, mink, otter, and beaver.
• Place a submerged body-gripping trap at the bottom of the channel.
• If the channel is too wide, use sticks or brush to narrow the path and guide the animal into the trap.
• Use a blocking pole across the top of the trap to make the animal dive below it.
• Secure the trap with stakes and sticks to position it correctly in the channel.

Float Set:

• Set traps on logs or homemade platforms.
• Attach traps on a chain or wire.
• When the muskrat is trapped, it will enter the water and the weight of the trap will pull it under.
• Place branches or sticks over the top of the trap to keep ducks or other birds from stepping on it.

Scent Mound Set:

• Locate or create a beaver scent mound made of mud marked with castor.
• Hide beaver-sized foothold traps under 3 to 4 inches of water using a securely staked sliding wire submersion rig.
• If no natural scent mound is found, make one and mark it with castor lure.
• This set is most effective in late season.

Spring Run Set:

• Identify the location where a spring run or small stream enters a larger body of water.
• Use a foothold trap and submersion techniques to set the trap in this area.
• This is an effective method for trapping muskrat, mink, or otter.

Otter Latrine Set:

• Identify otter latrines by looking for piles of scat containing fish scales and bones near the water.
• Set a foothold trap in 3 to 4 inches of water at the spot where the otter travels in and out.
• Use a sliding wire submersion technique to secure the trap.

Under Ice Beaver Bait Set:

• Ensure the ice is safe and have someone with you for assistance if needed.
• Chop a hole in the ice near a beaver den, following state regulations regarding minimum distance from the den.
• Attach the trap and bait to a long pole and push it deep into the mud under the water.
• The pole should extend well out of the ice so that a trapped beaver cannot reach the hole to breathe.

Objective: Create a climb out set to trap muskrats, beaver, otter, and nutria near their feeding areas.

Steps:
1. Identify distinct trails or slides where animals climb out of the water to feed.
2. Place a foothold trap just under the water at the point where the slide enters the land.
3. Use either a tangle stake or sliding wire submersion rig for secure deployment.
4. No bait or lure is needed for this set, as animals are naturally drawn to feeding areas.

Notes:
• This technique is especially effective for muskrats and beavers near water’s edge.
• Ensure the trap is submerged correctly and does not wobble in the water.

Objective: Create a den set to trap muskrats near their underwater dens.

Steps:
1. Look for signs of muskrat activity such as chewed vegetation floating on water, or lodges made from cattails or reeds in shallow marshes.
2. Identify the openings around the base of the lodge where muskrats enter and exit.
3. Use a body-gripping trap for this set, as it is most effective for den sets.
4. Place small sticks in the upper jaws of the trap to keep it upright in water.

Notes:
• Muskrat dens are typically located just below the surface of water on stream or lake banks.
• Ensure that the trap is positioned correctly at the entrance of the den.

Objective: Create an effective trail set for trapping furbearers like muskrat, raccoon, mink, beaver, and otter.

Steps:
1. Identify a narrow spot on the trail near water’s edge where furbearers regularly travel.
2. If no natural narrow spot is found, use logs or rocks to narrow the path.
3. Dig a shallow depression in the bank at the chosen location.
4. Place a foothold trap in the depression and bed it firmly into the mud.
5. Use either the sliding wire or tangle stake technique to make it a submersion set.
6. Do not use lure or bait for trail sets, as they are effective without them.

Notes:
• Ensure the trap is stable and does not wobble.
• Use small sticks in water to guide animals toward the trap if needed.

### Using Knowledge of Furbearers to Select Trapping Locations

Overview:
Understanding the habits, habitat preferences, and food sources of furbearers is essential for selecting effective trapping locations.

Key Considerations:
• Each species of furbearer has specific habitat requirements, diet, and behavioral patterns.
• Use this knowledge to identify areas where target animals are likely to be found.

Best Practices:
1. Research Target Species:
- Study the preferred habitats, food sources, and movement patterns of the species you are targeting.
2. Choose Strategic Locations:
- Set traps in areas that align with the natural behavior of the target animal (e.g., near food sources, travel corridors, or den sites).
3. Avoid High-Risk Areas:
- Avoid setting traps in locations where non-target animals are likely to be present.
4. Use Environmental Cues:
- Look for signs such as tracks, scat, and feeding areas that indicate the presence of target species.

Additional Notes:
• Selecting appropriate trapping locations increases your chances of success while minimizing unnecessary disturbance to other wildlife.
• Refer to Appendix A for detailed information on the habits and preferences of different furbearer species.

### Using Selective Trapping Techniques to Avoid Non-Target Species

Overview:
Selective trapping involves making sets that target specific furbearers while minimizing the risk of capturing non-target animals or pets.

Key Considerations:
• Each time you set a trap, make it with the intention of catching a specific furbearer.
• Take steps to prevent accidental capture of non-target species or domestic animals.

Best Practices:
1. Understand Furbearer Behavior:
- Know the habitat preferences, food sources, and habits of the target species.
- Use this knowledge to choose optimal locations for trapping.
2. Use Selective Equipment:
- Choose traps and sets that are designed to catch specific animals.
- Avoid using broad-spectrum lures or baits that may attract non-target species.
3. Monitor Traps Regularly:
- Check traps frequently to ensure they are functioning properly and not attracting unintended animals.
4. Minimize Bait Attraction:
- Use bait sparingly, especially in areas where non-target animals may be present.
- Consider using scent lures that are specific to the target species.

Additional Notes:
• The presence of non-target animals at your trap site reduces your chances of successfully catching the animal you want.
• Selective trapping techniques can increase your success rate and reduce conflicts with other wildlife or domestic animals.

To construct a squirrel pole:

1. Use simple loop snares.
2. Make the noose opening slightly larger than the animal's head:
- 3-finger width for squirrels.
- Fist-sized for rabbits.
3. Once tightened, the wire locks in place, preventing reopening and the animal’s escape.
4. Placement of snares:
- Set as many as possible.
- Avoid disturbing the area.
- Use funneling (natural or improvised) to guide animals into the trap.

Materials Needed:
• A sturdy pole or log
• Strong rope or chain
• A heavy weight (e.g., rock, log)
• A trigger mechanism (e.g., stick, string)

Steps to Construct a Bear or Coon Deadfall:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where bears or coons are likely to pass, such as near trails, feeding areas, or water sources.
2. **Set Up the Main Structure:
- Place the pole horizontally across two sturdy supports (e.g., trees) at a height that allows the animal to trigger it.
- Secure the ends of the pole to the supports using rope or chain.
3. Attach the Weight:
- Hang a heavy weight from one end of the pole, ensuring it is positioned so that when triggered, it will fall and strike the target.
4. **Create the Trigger Mechanism:
- Use a stick or string to create a tripwire or pressure plate that activates the deadfall when stepped on.
- Ensure the trigger is sensitive enough to activate with minimal disturbance but not so sensitive that it triggers accidentally.
5. Test and Adjust:
- Test the deadfall by simulating an animal's movement and ensure it functions as intended.
- Make any necessary adjustments to improve sensitivity or stability.

Materials Needed:
• A sturdy board or pole
• Strong rope or chain
• A heavy weight (e.g., rock, log)
• A trigger mechanism (e.g., stick, string)

Steps to Construct a Board or Pole Trap:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where animals are likely to pass, such as near trails, feeding areas, or water sources.
2. **Set Up the Main Structure:
- Place the board or pole horizontally across two sturdy supports (e.g., trees) at a height that allows the animal to trigger it.
- Secure the ends of the board or pole to the supports using rope or chain.
3. Attach the Weight:
- Hang a heavy weight from one end of the board or pole, ensuring it is positioned so that when triggered, it will fall and strike the target.
4. **Create the Trigger Mechanism:
- Use a stick or string to create a tripwire or pressure plate that activates the trap when stepped on.
- Ensure the trigger is sensitive enough to activate with minimal disturbance but not so sensitive that it triggers accidentally.
5. Test and Adjust:
- Test the trap by simulating an animal's movement and ensure it functions as intended.
- Make any necessary adjustments to improve sensitivity or stability.

Materials Needed:
• A sturdy tree or post
• Strong rope or wire
• A trigger mechanism (e.g., a stick or branch)
• A weight (e.g., a stone or log)
• A platform or trap floor

Steps to Construct the Deadfall Snare:
1. Select a Location: Choose an area where animals are likely to pass, such as near trails, watering holes, or feeding grounds.
2. Set Up the Tree or Post: Securely anchor a sturdy tree or post in the ground so that it is vertical and stable.
3. Attach the Rope or Wire: Tie one end of the rope or wire to the top of the tree or post. Run the rope down to the ground, ensuring it is taut but not overly tight.
4. Create a Trigger Mechanism: Use a stick or branch as a trigger. Place it horizontally across the rope at a height that will be activated by an animal stepping on it.
5. Attach the Weight: Tie the other end of the rope to a weight, such as a stone or log. Ensure the weight is heavy enough to pull down the tree or post when triggered.
6. Install the Platform or Trap Floor: Place a platform or trap floor beneath the tree or post so that it will fall onto the animal when activated.
7. Test the Snare: Gently test the trigger mechanism by stepping on it to ensure that the weight pulls down the tree or post and activates the trap.
8. Monitor Regularly: Check the snare regularly for signs of an animal being caught, and be prepared to retrieve the animal promptly to avoid unnecessary suffering.

Important Notes:
• Ensure the trap is placed in a location that minimizes the risk of accidental activation by humans or non-target animals.
• Use caution when handling the trap to avoid injury from the falling tree or post.
• Always follow local laws and regulations regarding trapping and hunting.

Materials Needed:
• A small pole or log
• Strong rope or chain
• A heavy weight (e.g., rock, log)
• A trigger mechanism (e.g., stick, string)

Steps to Construct a Small Animal Fall:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where small animals are likely to pass, such as near trails, feeding areas, or water sources.
2. **Set Up the Main Structure:
- Place the pole horizontally across two sturdy supports (e.g., trees) at a height that allows the animal to trigger it.
- Secure the ends of the pole to the supports using rope or chain.
3. Attach the Weight:
- Hang a heavy weight from one end of the pole, ensuring it is positioned so that when triggered, it will fall and strike the target.
4. **Create the Trigger Mechanism:
- Use a stick or string to create a tripwire or pressure plate that activates the deadfall when stepped on.
- Ensure the trigger is sensitive enough to activate with minimal disturbance but not so sensitive that it triggers accidentally.
5. Test and Adjust:
- Test the deadfall by simulating an animal's movement and ensure it functions as intended.
- Make any necessary adjustments to improve sensitivity or stability.

Steps to Construct a Baited Snare:

1. Prepare the Trigger Mechanism: Construct as for a spring snare but use the release mechanism shown.
2. Secure the Bait Support: Ensure the bait support is only lightly driven into the ground so it can fly away with the snare when triggered.
3. Attach Snare to Trigger Bar: Attach the snare to the trigger bar and connect the trigger bar to a sapling.
4. Set Location: Use this trap on game trails or in gaps through rocks or hedges.
5. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Balance Log & Square-Face Release Trap:

1. Prepare the Balance Log: Use a forked stick with sharpened ends and one fork suitably baited.
2. Support the Cross-Bar: Support one end of a cross-bar using the balance log, with the other end resting on a fixed support.
3. Use Heavy Weight: Place heavy logs or rocks on the bar to hold it in place.
4. Set Location: Set the trap in areas where it is unlikely to be accidentally triggered by humans.
5. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Leg Snare:

1. Prepare the Fork or Sticks: Push a natural fork or two sticks tied together into the ground.
2. Attach Line to Toggle: Tie the line from a sapling to a wooden toggle and pass the toggle under the fork.
3. Bait the Trap: Attach bait to a separate stick and place it in position so that when the game takes the bait, the stick falls away, releasing the toggle.
4. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Noose Stick for Birds and Squirrels:

1. Tie Fine Nooses: Tie many fine nooses close together along a stick or branch.
2. Set Location: Place the noose stick in areas where birds or squirrels are likely to be found.
3. Do Not Remove Immediately: Do not remove the animal as soon as one is caught, as it will attract other animals.
4. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Running Noose for Birds:

1. Attach the Noose: Attach a noose to a long pole.
2. Sneak Up at Night: Sneak up in areas where there is sufficient light to see birds roosting on lower branches.
3. Slip the Noose Over the Bird: Slip the noose over the bird and pull, tightening the noose and pulling the bird down at the same time.
4. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Snare for Small Game:

1. Select Materials: Use strong, springy wood for triggers and string or wire for the snare loop.
2. Cut the Loop: Make a loop with the string or wire that is approximately the width of a fist.
3. Position the Snare: Set the loop four fingers above the ground and one hand’s width from an obstruction on the trail.
4. Secure Anchoring: Ensure the snare is securely anchored, using twigs to support the loop in position if necessary.
5. Check Regularly: Check the snare regularly to prevent escape and undue suffering to the animal.

Procedure for Cleaning Waxed or Dipped Foothold Traps:

1. Identify parts to clean: Focus on the end of the dog and the pan notch.
2. Remove wax or dip: Use a file to clean wax or dip off these parts.
3. Ensure proper function: Make sure that the trap will stay set after cleaning.

Important Notes:
• If you do not remove the dip or wax, the trap will not stay set.
• This step is essential for ensuring the effectiveness of the trap.

Trap tuning involves several key adjustments to ensure your traps are effective and safe:

### Steps for Trap Tuning:
1. File the trap jaw: Use a metal file to smooth down any sharp or rough edges on the jaws to prevent injury to animals and improve performance.
2. Level trap pans: When the trap is set, the pan should be level with the jaws. If it's too high or low, bend the frame in or out below the 'dog'. Bend it out to raise the pan; bend it in to lower the pan.
3. Adjust pan tension: This is measured by the amount of weight needed on the trap pan to fire the trap. Most new traps have pan tension adjustment screws:
- Increase tension by turning the screw clockwise (to the right).
- Decrease tension by turning the screw counterclockwise (to the left).
- Example: Two pounds of pan tension is a good setting for fox.
- You can use a commercial testing device or create a makeshift one using a tennis ball can, liquid soap container, or PVC pipe filled with sand to match your desired weight.
4. Adjust pan throw: This refers to the distance the pan must be depressed to fire the trap:
- Use a shorter pan throw when tuning for high pan tension.
- To adjust, file some metal off the end of the notch where the dog fits. The shape of this notch determines how far the pan must drop before firing.
5. Inspect and maintain components:
- Replace weak springs immediately.
- Ensure swivels and hooks are strong and operate freely without binding.
- Weld trap hooks if trapping large animals like coyotes.
- Check chains for worn links and replace as needed.
6. Comply with regulations: Make sure your traps are tagged to meet state requirements.

### Additional Tips:
• The dog or notch should be squared off, not rounded, to prevent the trap from releasing too easily.
• For body-gripping traps, adjust the trigger if there is excessive play by crimping it with pliers or a vise until the ends are flush.
• Experienced trappers may shape triggers for selective trapping of certain species (see 'Selective Trapping Techniques' in Chapter 6).

Note: Always inspect and tune your traps before the start of each season to ensure they function properly and safely.

Purpose: Providing an alternative to commercial logwood dye for trapping.

Procedure:
1. Boil walnut hulls or maple bark in water for 1 hour.
2. After boiling, add the traps to the solution and follow the same soaking procedure as with logwood dye.
3. Allow the traps to soak for 30 to 60 minutes, or longer if needed for darker coloration.

Procedure for Waxing Traps Using Acrylic Floor Wax at Room Temperature:

1. Select the wax: Use acrylic floor wax at room temperature.
2. Apply wax to traps: Dip the traps in the acrylic floor wax, ensuring they are covered with a thin, even coat.
3. Ensure odor-free application: Make sure that the wax and container are free of odors, as furbearers have a keen sense of smell.

Important Notes:
• This method is considered safer and easier than using boiling water and trap wax.
• The acrylic floor wax tends to last longer than other waxes.

Purpose: Removing the light oil coating from new traps to prepare them for rusting, dyeing, and waxing.

Procedure:
1. Insert a nail between the jaws of each trap to open them slightly.
2. Place all traps in a large wash tub.
3. Fill the tub with water and powdered automatic dishwasher detergent.
4. Boil the traps in the soapy water for 30 minutes.
5. Remove the traps from the water and rinse them thoroughly until they are clean.
6. Hang the traps outside to allow a light coating of rust to form on the metal. This process may take 1 to 2 weeks.

Purpose: Coloring traps for camouflage and protection.

Procedure:
1. Once the traps are lightly rusted, place them in a large washtub over a fire or propane cooker.
2. If using commercial logwood dye, follow the package instructions for mixing water and logwood ingredients.
3. Bring the solution to a boil, then add the traps.
4. Let the traps soak in the solution for 30 to 60 minutes. The longer they soak, the darker the color will be.
5. If the traps are heavily rusted, remove the washtub from heat and let the traps soak for 1 or 2 days.

Important Note: High temperatures can weaken trap springs, so it is best to lower the water temperature to a simmer after adding the traps. A propane cooker allows easier control of heat compared to an open fire.

Purpose: Creating a light rust coating on traps to help dye bond to the metal without damaging the traps.

Procedure:
1. After cleaning, hang the traps outside in a location where they will be exposed to air and moisture.
2. Allow the traps to develop a light coating of rust, which may take 1 to 2 weeks depending on environmental conditions.

Purpose: Providing a fast and simple method to color and protect traps without using heat.

Procedure:
1. Ensure the traps are pre-rusted before applying this method.
2. Follow the instructions on the petroleum-based dip product for mixing with unleaded gas or lantern fuel.
3. Dip the pre-rusted traps into the solution, making sure not to dip padded jaw traps (avoid submerging the pads).
4. Hang the traps outside in a well-ventilated area to dry.

Note: Petroleum-based dips provide a harder and more even coating, especially when used with proper air temperature conditions.

Procedure for Using Petroleum-Based Dips or Dyeing for Body-Gripping Traps:

1. Select appropriate materials: Use petroleum-based dips or dye.
2. Apply to traps: Dip the body-gripping traps in the petroleum-based dip or dye.
3. Ensure even coverage: Make sure that the trap is fully covered with an even coat.

Important Notes:
• Body-gripping traps require no waxing, as it makes them slippery and dangerous.
• Petroleum-based dips are acceptable for body-gripping traps.

Procedure for Waxing Traps Using Boiling Water and Wax:

1. Prepare the wax: Submerge traps in boiling water. Place trap wax in the water and let it melt. The wax will float.
2. Apply wax to traps: Using a hooked stick, slowly and carefully lift the traps out of the water one at a time. The traps should come out with a thin, even coat of wax.
3. Remove excess wax: Shake the traps to remove excess wax.
4. Adjust if necessary: If the wax is too thick or too heavy, put the traps back in the water and allow them to heat a bit longer before removing them.

Important Safety Notes:
• Trap wax is flammable. Wax can catch fire, or cause severe burns if it splashes on you.
• Always read and follow manufacturer’s directions.
• Ensure that the wax and container are free of odors, as furbearers have a keen sense of smell.

Purpose: Avoiding potential damage to bodygripping traps.

Explanation:
• Waxing bodygripping traps is not recommended because it can interfere with the function of the trap’s mechanism, potentially causing malfunctions or reducing effectiveness.
• It may also affect how the trap interacts with the target animal, increasing the risk of injury to both the animal and the trapper.

Recommendation:
• Use alternative methods such as dyeing or petroleum-based dips for coloring and protection instead of wax.

Materials Needed:
• Sticks
• Vines or natural fibers for lashing

Steps to Construct the Fish Basket Trap:
1. Lash Sticks Together: Lash several sticks together with vines into a funnel shape.
2. Close the Top: Close the top of the basket, leaving a hole large enough for fish to swim through.
3. Placement: Place the trap in an area where fish are likely to gather or pass through.

Materials Needed:
• Stones or natural materials
• Natural rock pools (for rocky shores)
• Coral reefs (for coral islands)
• Sandbars and ditches (for sandy shores)

Steps to Construct the Fish Trap:
1. Choose Location: Select a location at high tide for building the trap, and build it at low tide.
2. Use Natural Features: On rocky shores, use natural rock pools. On coral islands, use natural pools on the surface of reefs by blocking the openings as the tide recedes. On sandy shores, use sandbars and the ditches they enclose.
3. Build Trap Structure: Build the trap as a low stone wall extending outward into the water and forming an angle with the shore.

Materials Needed:
• Parachute suspension line or similar material
• Trees for tying the net
• Prusik knots or girth hitches
• Guidelines (optional)

Steps to Construct the Gill Net:
1. Remove Core Lines: Remove the core lines from the parachute suspension line.
2. Tie Easing Between Trees: Tie the easing between two trees.
3. Attach Core Lines: Attach several core lines to the easing by doubling them over and tying them with prusik knots or girth hitches.
4. Determine Mesh Size: The length of the desired net and the size of the mesh determine the number of core lines used and the space between them.
5. Tie Core Lines in Pairs: Starting at one end of the easing, tie the second and third core lines together using an overhand knot. Continue this pattern (fourth and fifth, sixth and seventh, etc.) until you reach the last core line. You should now have all core lines tied in pairs with a single core line hanging at each end.
6. Start Second Row: Start the second row with the first core line, tie it to the second, the third to the fourth, and so on.
7. Regulate Mesh Size: To keep the rows even and regulate mesh size, tie a guideline to the trees on the opposite side of the net you are working on. Move the guideline down after completing each row.
8. Continue Tying Rows: Continue tying rows until the net is the desired width.
9. Strengthen Net: Thread a suspension line easing along the bottom of the net to strengthen it.
10. Use the Gill Net: Use the gill net as shown in Figure 8-20.

Materials Needed:
• Long, straight sapling
• Knife or sharpened metal (optional)
• Jagged piece of bone or sharpened wood (optional)

Steps to Make the Spear:
1. Cut Sapling: Cut a long, straight sapling.
2. Sharpen Tip: Sharpen the end to a point or attach a knife, jagged piece of bone, or sharpened metal.
3. Optional Spreader: Split the shaft a few inches down from the end and insert a piece of wood to act as a spreader. Then sharpen the two separated halves to points.

Steps to Use the Spear:
1. Find Fish Gathering Area: Find an area where fish either gather or where there is a fish run.
2. Insert Spear Point into Water: Place the spear point into the water and slowly move it toward the fish.
3. Impale Fish: With a sudden push, impale the fish on the stream bottom.
4. Hold Fish Securely: Hold the spear with one hand and grab and hold the fish with the other. Do not try to lift the fish with the spear as it will probably slip off and you will lose it.
5. Avoid Throwing Spear: Do not throw the spear, especially if the point is a knife. You cannot afford to lose a knife in a survival situation.
6. Be Alert to Refraction: Be alert to the problems caused by light refraction when looking at objects in the water.

Materials Needed:
• Light source (e.g., flashlight or fire)
• Machete or similar weapon

Steps for Chop Fishing:
1. Choose Location: Use an area with a good fish density.
2. Attract Fish with Light: At night, use a light to attract fish to the area.
3. Strike Fish with Back of Blade: Armed with a machete or similar weapon, gather fish using the back side of the blade to strike them.
4. Avoid Sharp Side: Do not use the sharp side as you will cut them in two pieces and end up losing some of the fish.

Materials Needed:
• Lime (commercial or homemade by burning coral or seashells)
• Green husks from butternuts or black walnuts

Steps to Use Fish Poison:
1. Use Lime: You can get lime from commercial sources and in agricultural areas that use large quantities of it. You may produce your own by burning coral or seashells. Throw the lime into the water.
2. Use Nut Husks: Crush green husks from butternuts or black walnuts. Throw the husks into the water.

Steps to Construct a Fish Trap Using a Plastic Bottle:

1. Cut the Bottle: Cut the bottle just below the neck and invert the neck inside the bottle.
2. Bait the Trap: Bait the trap with food that attracts fish, such as berries or insects.
3. Weight Down the Trap: Weight down the trap so it doesn’t float away.
4. Set Location: Place the trap in areas where fish are likely to be found, such as near streams or rivers.
5. Check Regularly: Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and prevent undue suffering.

Steps to Construct a Spear for Fishing:

1. Sharpen the Stick: Sharpen a long stick to make a spear.
2. Add Barbs: Add barbs to the spear to make it more effective at catching fish.
3. Use Multiple Points: If possible, use multiple points on the spear to cover a larger area and increase your chances of catching fish.
4. Position Yourself: Position yourself so that you are not casting a shadow over the fish you are trying to catch.
5. Aim Slightly Below the Fish: Aim slightly below the fish to allow for refraction of its image at the surface.

Steps to Fish with a Hook and Line:

1. Improvise Hooks: Use wire, pins, bones, wood, or thorns to make hooks.
2. Bait the Hook: Use bait native to the fish’s own water, such as berries, insects, parts of a fish, ants, worms, grubs, and other insects.
3. Check Fish Stomach Contents: Examine the stomach contents of a caught fish to determine what it has been feeding on.
4. Use Flies: Add tied flies to your kit for additional bait options.
5. Leave Lines Out Overnight: Leave lines out overnight and check them before first light.

Procedure:

1. Ensure your hunting equipment is legal under Washington State regulations.
2. Choose from the following legal turkey hunting equipment:
- Shotgun (with a full or extra full choke)
- Muzzleloading shotgun
- Archery equipment
- Crossbow
3. If using a shotgun, ensure it is capable of holding three or fewer shells.
4. If your shotgun can hold more than three shells, confirm that the manufacturer has provided a magazine plug to limit capacity to three rounds.
5. Ensure your shotgun is equipped with an interchangeable choke tube if possible, allowing you to adjust for different hunting conditions.
6. If your shotgun does not have interchangeable chokes, use turkey-specific ammunition loads designed for less tight chokes.
7. Use #4 shot or smaller, such as #6 shot, when hunting turkeys.

Additional Tips:
• The larger the number of shot (e.g., #6), the smaller the pellets.
• Always check your equipment before heading out to ensure compliance with local regulations.

To ensure humane and effective shot placement when harvesting turkeys:

With a Shotgun:
1. Use a head/neck shot as the preferred method to avoid meat loss.
2. Aim for the middle of the neck, where the feathers start to appear.
3. Ensure there are no obstructions (e.g., branches or twigs) between you and the turkey that could affect the projectile’s trajectory.
4. Practice with your hunting equipment before the hunt to build confidence in your shot placement.

With Archery/Crossbow:
1. If using guillotine-style broadheads (designed to decapitate the bird), aim as you would with a shotgun, targeting the middle of the neck.
2. For regular broadheads, use these target areas based on the turkey’s position:
- Broadside: Aim for the vitals just below the wing joint.
- Strutting and facing away: Aim for the base of the tail.
- Facing head-on: Aim just above the beard.
3. Ensure there are no obstructions (e.g., branches or twigs) between you and the turkey that could affect the projectile’s trajectory.
4. Practice with your equipment before the hunt to build confidence in your shot placement.

Best time to hunt:
• Spring: When male turkeys (toms) are displaying to female turkeys (hens) in a bid to become their mate.
• Fall: When turkeys are gathering for the upcoming winter months and generally feeding and moving throughout the day.

Key strategies:
1. Use locator calls to determine if there are toms or jakes (immature tom) in an area during spring.
2. Toms will often respond with a shock gobble to any loud, sudden noise during spring.
3. Once the season opens, use locator calls or hen yelps to locate a tom during spring.
4. Set up your blind or find a location to easily conceal yourself in areas with food sources like meadows or small openings during both seasons.
5. Sit with your back to a tree, stump, or hillside for protection and camouflage during spring.
6. Place a decoy about 20 yards from where you will be sitting if using one during spring.
7. Use turkey calls such as hen yelps, clucks, and purs to draw in toms during spring.
8. During fall, look for travel corridors and feeding areas used by turkeys.
9. Set up an ambush point on travel routes between roost trees and feeding areas during fall.
10. Set up similar to spring hunting techniques, but focus on flocks of hens and their offspring or small groups of toms during fall.
11. Use soft hen calls and juvenile turkey ‘kee kees’ to coax hens closer to your ambush point during fall.
12. Listen to the birds and imitate the calls they are making during fall.

Harvest limits:
• During spring, you can harvest up to 3 turkeys.
• During general fall seasons, you can harvest up to 4 turkeys.
• An additional bird may be harvested if you have a fall special permit.

Procedure:

1. Choose the appropriate decoy: Select a hen, jake, or tom decoy based on your hunting strategy.
2. Position the decoy safely: Set the decoy at least 20 yards away from your blind and ensure there is a minimum 50-yard line of sight between you and any other hunters.
3. Avoid carrying uncovered decoys: Always cover or store decoys when not in use to prevent accidental exposure to turkeys or other hunters.
4. Be aware of surroundings: Look before moving and call out to approaching hunters instead of waving your hand.

Notes:
• Decoys can attract, distract, challenge, or instill confidence in turkeys.
• Use decoys strategically to increase your chances of a successful hunt.

Types of Calls:
• Friction calls (e.g., box calls, diaphragm calls)
• Air-operated calls (e.g., mouth calls, slate calls)

Purpose:
• Most calls are used to simulate the calls of a hen turkey.
• A few can mimic the gobbling of a mature tom but should be used sparingly to avoid attracting other hunters.

Tips for Using Calls:
1. Practice calling regularly to improve your technique and timing.
2. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before using any call.
3. Use calls in conjunction with natural turkey sounds for better results.
4. Be mindful of other hunters when using tom gobble calls.

Procedure:

1. Look for trees that are at least 30-100 feet tall during the summer months.
2. During winter, identify largest trees in a grove, as turkeys prefer these for roosting.
3. Observe if turkeys tend to roost near the top of the tree as high as comfortably possible.
4. Avoid hunting at the roost site directly, as this may disrupt normal turkey behavior.
5. Set up your hunting position 70 or more yards away from a roost site.
6. Use calls such as locator calls, soft clucks, and yelps to attract turkeys to your location.

Additional Tips:
• Roosting areas are often used repeatedly, especially in winter.
• If you find many droppings below a tree, it may be a roost site.

Optics Designation:
• The designation on optics (e.g., 8 x 42) indicates the magnification and objective lens size.
- The first number (8) is the level of magnification.
- The second number (42) is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters.

Choosing Optics:
• A larger objective lens allows more light to enter, resulting in a clearer image but may make the optics bulkier.
• Consider testing different models at a sporting goods store before purchasing.

Usefulness for Turkey Hunting:
• While not essential, binoculars or spotting scopes can be helpful for locating turkeys, observing their movements, and watching them go to their roost.

Purpose: A turkey vest helps carry gear into the woods and provides comfort during long periods of sitting.

Features to Look For:
• Foam seat for added comfort.
• Pockets or compartments for storing essential hunting items such as calls, knives, and optics.
• Durable material suitable for outdoor conditions.

Tips:
• Choose a vest that fits comfortably and allows for easy movement.
• Ensure the vest is lightweight to reduce fatigue during long hunts.

Procedure:

1. Examine turkey droppings found in the area.
2. Compare the shape and size of the droppings to known examples:
- Hen droppings are usually a single pile.
- Tom droppings are elongated, forming a “J” shape and are approximately two inches long.
3. Note the color variation between hen and tom droppings if present.
4. Use this information to determine the gender of turkeys in the area.

Additional Tips:
• Finding multiple droppings may indicate that turkeys frequently use the area.
• If you find a large number of droppings below a tree, it could be a roosting site.
• Take note of the location for future reference and hunting strategy.

Definition: A hole or depression dug in the ground where a trap is placed.

Action Steps:
1. Choose a suitable location for the trap bed, ensuring it is concealed and safe from disturbance.
2. Dig a hole or create a depression in the ground large enough to accommodate the trap.
3. Ensure the trap bed is level and stable to prevent tipping or displacement of the trap.
4. Place the trap inside the trap bed according to manufacturer instructions.
5. Cover the trap bed with natural materials (e.g., leaves, dirt) for camouflage.

Objective: Construct and use traps or snares to catch small game in survival situations.

Steps:
1. Choose the appropriate trap or snare based on the type of animal you are targeting (e.g., a loop snare for small mammals, a pit trap for larger animals).
2. Select a suitable location that is likely to be frequented by the target animal (e.g., near food sources, along trails, in dense vegetation).
3. Prepare the ground or structure of the trap by digging a hole or placing logs and branches to create a stable base.
4. Construct the trap using materials such as rope, wire, or natural fibers to ensure it is secure and functional.
5. Adjust the loop size and ground clearance to match the target animal’s size and movement patterns.
6. Use bait (e.g., food scraps, berries) to attract the animal to the trap.
7. Ensure that the trap is concealed from view but still accessible for checking and maintenance.
8. Check the trap regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and to avoid unnecessary suffering to the trapped animal.

Notes: Traps and snares are effective tools for obtaining food in survival situations, but they must be used responsibly and ethically.

Procedure for Camouflaging and Painting Wooden Trap Boxes:

1. Choose a method: Decide whether to paint the box or allow it to weather naturally.
2. Painting: If painting, use colors that match the surrounding environment (e.g., green, brown, gray).
3. Weathering: Allow the wood to weather over time for a natural appearance.

Additional Tips:
• Camouflaging helps reduce the visibility of the trap to animals and humans.
• Some trappers prefer leaving the box white as a visual attractant for certain species.

Procedure for Creating Entry Holes in Trap Boxes:

1. Determine hole size: Cut entry holes no larger than 6-7 inches to accommodate raccoons.
2. Choose location: Create the hole on the side of the box or in the lid.
3. Use wire mesh: Cover the opening with wire mesh that narrows near the entrance to prevent non-target animals from entering.

Important Notes:
• Ensure that the wire mesh does not interfere with the trap springs when they release.
• This method helps increase the effectiveness of raccoon traps by limiting access to the trap.

Procedure for Creating Running Pole Sets for Fisher Trapping:

1. Use evergreen limbs: Place the running pole sets under evergreen limbs to help keep snow from covering the traps.
2. Bait with meat: Use raccoon or porcupine meat as bait for fisher traps.
3. Add lures: Apply fisher musk, fisher urine, beaver castor, or skunk essence to attract fishers.

Additional Tips:
• This method is particularly useful in snowy environments where visibility is low.
• Ensure that the pole sets are stable and secure for effective trapping.

Procedure for Creating a Depression Near a Trap:

1. Dig the depression: Excavate a small area near the trap to create a natural pit or depression.
2. Place bait in the depression: Use food items such as meat, fish, or sweet baits like jam to attract animals.
3. Ensure accessibility: Make sure that the depression is accessible to target species but not easily reachable by non-target animals.

Additional Tips:
• This method can be used with wooden boxes or bucket traps.
• The depression helps increase the trap's effectiveness by drawing animals closer.

Procedure for Mounting a Bucket Trap on a Tree:

1. Select the location: Choose a tree where target animals are likely to be found.
2. Secure the bucket: Attach the 5-gallon bucket to the tree using appropriate hardware or wiring.
3. Ensure stability: Make sure the bucket is securely fastened and will not move or fall during use.

Additional Tips:
• This method helps prevent non-target animals from accessing the trap.
• Check with local wildlife agencies for guidelines on safe and legal trap placement.

Procedure for Setting Body-Gripping Traps in Plastic Buckets:

1. Prepare the bucket: Use a 5-gallon plastic bucket as the trap enclosure.
2. Cut slots: Cut slots in the sides of the bucket to accommodate the trap springs.
3. Suspend bait: Place sweet baits such as marshmallows, anise, honey, hard candy, or jam inside the bucket above the trap.
4. Allow scent diffusion: Drill small holes in the bucket to allow the scent of the bait to spread and attract animals.

Additional Tips:
• This method helps prevent non-target catches by limiting access to the trap.
• Ensure that the bucket is stable and secure when placed.

Procedure for Setting a Leaning Pole Trap for Marten and Fisher:

1. Prepare the pole: Use a sturdy leaning pole as the base for the trap.
2. Enclose the trap: Place a #120 body-gripping trap inside a box or set it directly on the pole.
3. Use appropriate bait: Bait the trap with meat, fish, or strawberry jam to attract marten and fisher.
4. Add lures: Use skunk essence as a lure for fisher traps.

Additional Tips:
• This method is effective in areas where marten and fisher are common.
• Ensure that the pole is stable and secure to prevent the trap from moving or falling.

Cable devices should be attached to steel stakes or earth anchors for secure anchoring. An alternative is to pass a heavy gauge wire through a swivel on the end of the cable and make a loop around a tree.

Steps for Attaching Cable Devices to Anchoring Systems:
1. Choose an appropriate anchoring system (e.g., steel stake, earth anchor, or tree loop).
2. Attach the cable device to the anchoring point using a swivel or other secure method.
3. Ensure that the anchoring system is strong enough to hold an animal that can pull against it using all four legs.
4. Test the anchoring system by applying pressure to ensure it is secure and does not fail under stress.

Notes:
• Anchoring systems are essential for ensuring the safety of both the trapper and the animal being trapped.
• Always follow local trapping regulations and guidelines for the proper use of anchoring systems.

Trapping regulations often require the use of a “stop” to prevent a cable loop from closing below a certain diameter. Heavy gauge wire, steel nuts, or crimped ferrules can be used to make stops.

Steps for Creating a Stop:
1. Select a material suitable for making a stop (e.g., heavy gauge wire, steel nut, or crimped ferrule).
2. Attach the stop to the cable loop at a point where it will prevent the loop from closing below the required diameter.
3. Ensure that the stop is securely fastened and positioned so that it does not interfere with the function of the trap or cable loop.

Types of Stops:
• Maximum Loop Stop: Prevents larger animals from entering the device.
• Minimum Loop Stop: Prevents the device from closing around a non-target animal’s foot (e.g., if a deer steps in the cable loop, the minimum loop stop keeps the cable from closing tight enough to hold it).

Notes:
• Stops are essential for compliance with trapping regulations and for animal welfare.
• Always follow local trapping regulations and guidelines for the proper use of stops.

Swivels are used in cable device anchoring systems to keep the animal from twisting and kinking the cable.

Steps for Attaching a Swivel:
1. Choose an appropriate swivel that is compatible with the cable system being used.
2. Attach the swivel to the end of the cable or to the anchoring point (e.g., steel stake, earth anchor, or tree loop).
3. Ensure that the swivel is securely fastened and positioned so that it allows for free movement without twisting or kinking the cable.
4. Test the swivel by applying pressure to ensure it moves freely and does not interfere with the function of the trap or cable system.

Notes:
• Swivels are essential for preventing damage to the cable and ensuring the proper functioning of the trap.
• Always follow local trapping regulations and guidelines for the proper use of swivels.

### Identify Cable Device Equipment and Materials

• Multi-strand steel cable - Used in modern cable devices.
• 7x7 Cable and 7x19 Cable are common types of stranded steel cables used in cable devices.
• Relaxing Lock (A) - A component that allows the cable to move in either direction. It tightens when an animal pulls against it and relaxes when tension stops.
• Non-Relaxing Lock (B) - Keeps a cable from loosening after an animal is caught. It closes the loop tighter when pulled but does not relax when tension stops.
• J-Hook Breakaway Device (C) - A component that allows for controlled release of an animal.
• End Ferrule (D) - Used to secure the end of the cable.
• Maximum Loop Stop (F) - Prevents the loop from becoming too large, ensuring proper function and safety.
• Inline Swivel (G) - Allows the cable device to rotate freely, reducing twisting and potential damage.
• End Swivel (H) - Similar to inline swivel but located at the end of the cable device.
• Trap Tag (I) - A tag used for identification purposes on the trap or cable device.
• Stabilizer Tube (E) - Helps maintain the shape and integrity of the cable device during use.
• Deer Stop (J) - Designed to prevent larger animals, such as deer, from being caught in a non-relaxing lock by breaking at a given strength.

Breakaway devices are parts of a cable system that allow an animal to escape from the loop if it pulls against it with sufficient force. Ferrules, S-hooks, and J-hooks are examples of breakaway devices.

Steps for Installation:
1. Choose the appropriate breakaway device based on the type of animal being trapped (e.g., deer, livestock).
2. Attach the breakaway device to the cable system at a point where it will allow the animal to escape if sufficient force is applied.
3. Ensure that the breakaway device is securely fastened and positioned so that it does not interfere with the function of the trap or cable loop.
4. Test the breakaway device by applying pressure to ensure it releases properly when needed.

Notes:
• Breakaway devices are essential for animal welfare, as they prevent injury or entanglement if an animal is unable to escape on its own.
• Always follow local trapping regulations and guidelines for the proper use of breakaway devices.

An end ferrule, also called a cable end, is crimped on the end of a cable to keep the strands from unraveling. A ferrule can also serve as a breakaway device.

Steps for Installing an End Ferrule:
1. Choose an appropriate ferrule that is compatible with the cable being used.
2. Slide the ferrule over the end of the cable and crimp it securely to prevent the strands from unraveling.
3. If using the ferrule as a breakaway device, ensure it is positioned so that it will release properly when sufficient force is applied.
4. Test the ferrule by applying pressure to ensure it functions correctly and does not interfere with the function of the trap or cable system.

Notes:
• Ferrules are essential for maintaining the integrity of the cable and preventing damage to the trap.
• Always follow local trapping regulations and guidelines for the proper use of ferrules.

### Set a Cable Device

1. Select the location - Choose a spot where animals frequently travel, such as narrow trails or paths.
2. Position the device - Place it in the center of the line of travel so that the targeted furbearer will walk into it.
3. Use appropriate cable size - Follow state trapping regulations for required cable sizes (e.g., 3/32” is a popular choice).
4. Secure the components - Ensure all parts, such as swivels, ferrules, or mechanical features like springs and foothold-like pans, are properly attached to prevent twisting, damage, or malfunction.
5. Use a relaxing lock (if applicable) - If using a non-powered cable device with a relaxing lock, ensure it is set correctly so that animals can be released unharmed if they do not pull against the device.
6. Ensure proper loop closure - The device should use its mechanical feature to place and tighten the cable around the captured animal’s body or limb (for powered devices) or ensure the loop is properly sized and positioned for safe capture (for non-powered devices).
7. Check for proper function - Ensure that all components are working correctly, and the loop of the cable device is properly sized and positioned to capture the targeted furbearer without causing unnecessary harm.

### Use a Non-Relaxing Lock in Cable Devices

1. Attach the non-relaxing lock - Ensure it is properly connected to the cable device.
2. Position the loop correctly - Place the loop so that it will close around the targeted furbearer’s body or limb when they move forward.
3. Ensure secure closure - The non-relaxing lock will keep the cable from loosening after an animal is caught, ensuring the device remains closed and functional.
4. Use for long-term trapping - Non-relaxing locks are suitable for use in situations where the trap may remain set for extended periods without requiring frequent checks.
5. Check for proper function - Ensure that the non-relaxing lock is working correctly and that the loop of the cable device is properly sized and positioned to capture the targeted furbearer without causing unnecessary harm.

Use a stabilizing wire, sometimes called a “pigtail”, to hold a cable loop in the proper position to capture a furbearer. Use 11 or 12-gauge wire for stabilizers. If the cable has a stabilizer tube, it is simply placed over the wire. If not, the wire is bent in a manner to support the cable.

Procedure:

1. Remove the furbearer from water traps:
- Rinse the animal clean of any dirt, mud, or vegetation.
- Shake off excess water from the animal.
- Stroke the fur from head to tail with your hand to remove as much water as possible.
- If dry snow is available, roll the animal in it to absorb water.

2. Avoid freezing surfaces if below freezing:
- Do not lay a wet animal on ice or metal surfaces, as this can cause guard hairs to freeze and damage the pelt when removed.

3. Dry the fur before skinning:
- If the fur is still wet when you get home, hang it up by the head or forelegs in a cool place to dry.
- Use a fan to circulate air and decrease drying time.
- Ensure pelts are completely dry before being skinned and placed on a stretching frame.

4. Sell unskinned furs if necessary:
- In warm weather (above 40°F), sell unskinned animals daily.
- In cooler weather (below 40°F), sell every two to three days.
- Selling unskinned furs will result in a lower price, but it is less work for you and more work for the buyer.

5. Handle land-trapped furbearers carefully:
- If an animal is trapped on land and already dry, brush or comb the pelt to remove burrs or dirt.
- Land furbearers may carry external parasites (e.g., fleas, ticks, mites), so keep carcasses in a place that won’t contaminate your house, clothing, or vehicle.

Procedure:

1. Cased furs:
- This method is used for most furbearers (except beaver and sometimes badger).
- The process involves making a cut from the top of one foot pad along the inside of one back leg to the top of the foot pad on the other back leg.
- Remove the pelt by turning it inside out, similar to removing a sweater or sweatshirt, pulling it over the head and down over the legs and body.

2. Open furs:
- This method is used for beaver and sometimes badger.
- Make a cut on the underside of the animal from its chin to the base of its tail.
- Remove the fur this way, similar to taking off a coat.

Furbearers with furred tails should have their tails split from the underside with a knife, and the tail bone removed. A tail-stripper can be used for this purpose. The de-boned, furred tail should remain attached to the pelt.

Furbearers without furred tails should have their tails cut from the pelt at the hairline during skinning, and then discarded.

Purpose: A fleshing board is a narrow wooden or fiberglass beam used to hold a pelt while removing meat or fat still attached to the skin. If not removed, this meat or fat can rot and spoil the pelt.

Tools: Use a double-handled draw knife, a single-handled scraper, or other types of fleshing tools for this process.

Purpose: A wire or wooden stretcher is used to hold a pelt in place as it dries so that it does not shrink or shrivel.

Procedure:
1. Place the pelt over a stretching board or wire frame, with the fur-side in.
2. Ensure the pelt is centered on the board or frame, with the forelegs and belly on one side and the eye holes, ears, and back on the other side.
3. Pull the pelt snug but not too tight to avoid damage.
4. If using a wooden stretching board, secure the pelt in place with tacks or push pins near the base of the tail and back legs.
5. For wire frames, use the two metal arms with prongs that hold the base of the pelt taut.

Tanning refers to treating a hide to make it into leather.

• This process involves:
- Soaking the hide in chemicals or natural substances (such as tannins).
- Removing hair and fat from the hide.
- Preserving the hide to prevent decay.
• Types of tanning include:
- Vegetable tanning using plant-based materials.
- Chrome tanning using chromium salts.
- Brain tanning using animal brains or oils.
• Tanning is essential for producing durable and long-lasting leather products.

Market Fur In means that the fur side of the pelt is on the inside when the pelt is sold. Market Fur Out means that the fur should be on the outside of the pelt, with the skin on the inside. The preparation method depends on the species of furbearer, and it is important to consult your local fur buyer for their specific requirements.

Most fur buyers are willing to explain proper handling techniques since this ensures better quality and higher profits for both parties. Do not hesitate to ask for guidance.

Singed fur refers to the metallic sheen on otter fur caused by curled tips of the guard hairs.

• This damage can occur from:
- Excessive dry heat.
- Direct sunlight.
- Stroking dry fur.
- Contact with freezing metal.
- The otter itself during the late season.
• To avoid singed fur:
- Handle pelts carefully to prevent exposure to extreme temperatures.
- Store pelts in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
- Avoid using metal tools that may cause damage when handling fur.

Procedure:
1. Choose an area where the coyote is likely to travel and install a cable restraint.
2. Secure one end of the cable to a fixed object such as a tree or post.
3. Attach the trap to the other end of the cable, ensuring it is securely fastened and stable.
4. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
5. Use bait such as covered meat or fish to attract the coyote.
6. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
7. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Choose an area where the gray fox is likely to travel and install a cable restraint.
2. Secure one end of the cable to a fixed object such as a tree or post.
3. Attach the trap to the other end of the cable, ensuring it is securely fastened and stable.
4. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
5. Use bait such as covered meat, eggs, or fish to attract the gray fox.
6. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
7. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Choose an area where the swift/kit fox is likely to travel and install a cable restraint.
2. Secure one end of the cable to a fixed object such as a tree or post.
3. Attach the trap to the other end of the cable, ensuring it is securely fastened and stable.
4. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
5. Use bait such as covered meat or fish to attract the swift/kit fox.
6. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
7. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Choose a flat area where the coyote is likely to travel.
2. Place the trap on the ground, ensuring it is stable and not easily moved by the animal.
3. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
4. Use bait such as covered meat or fish to attract the coyote.
5. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
6. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Choose a flat area where the gray fox is likely to travel.
2. Place the trap on the ground, ensuring it is stable and not easily moved by the animal.
3. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
4. Use bait such as covered meat, eggs, or fish to attract the gray fox.
5. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
6. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Choose a flat area where the swift/kit fox is likely to travel.
2. Place the trap on the ground, ensuring it is stable and not easily moved by the animal.
3. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
4. Use bait such as covered meat or fish to attract the swift/kit fox.
5. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
6. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Select a suitable post where the gray wolf is likely to travel.
2. Attach the trap to the post, ensuring it is securely fastened and stable.
3. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
4. Use bait such as covered meat to attract the gray wolf.
5. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
6. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Procedure:
1. Select a suitable post where the red fox is likely to travel.
2. Attach the trap to the post, ensuring it is securely fastened and stable.
3. Position the trap so that the trigger mechanism is aligned with the expected path of the animal.
4. Use bait such as covered meat or fish to attract the red fox.
5. Ensure the trap is securely anchored and not easily dislodged by the animal's movement.
6. Check the trap regularly for any signs of activity or capture.

Objective: Improve hunting success by scouting potential areas.

Procedure:
1. Scout the area before hunting to identify likely locations where waterfowl may be found.
2. Use scouting to find spots with access to food, water, and cover, such as wetlands or agricultural fields.
3. Scouting increases your chances of success by allowing you to avoid crowded areas and find new opportunities.
4. Hunters who scout typically take three times more ducks than those who do not.

Objective: Improve hunting success by using decoys effectively.

Procedure:
1. Study how ducks interact on the water to understand decoy placement and behavior.
2. Choose a decoying technique that matches your hunting location, method, and target species.
3. Set up decoys in areas with open water, vegetation cover, or other features that attract birds.
4. Leave some spots open to encourage natural movement and interaction among the birds.

Objective: Successfully hunt waterfowl using the pass shooting technique.

Procedure:
1. Understand that pass shooting is time-intensive and requires identifying travel corridors where ducks move between feeding and roosting sites.
2. Focus on hunting during early or late parts of the day, when birds are more active.
3. Scout to determine flight paths and identify areas with open water extending from land or vegetation for cover.
4. Be prepared to observe and understand bird behavior in these corridors to increase success.

Objective: Distinguish between goose species based on coloration.

Procedure:
1. Note that males and females of the same species are similar in appearance and coloration.
2. Recognize that each species has unique color markings, which can help with identification.
3. Use field guides or reference materials to compare observed geese with known species for accurate identification.

Objective: Understand how geese take off to improve hunting success.

Procedure:
1. Observe that large geese must take flight horizontally on water, propelling themselves by running across the surface to gain speed before lifting off.
2. Note that they tend to jump vertically when taking off from land.
3. Use this knowledge to anticipate their movements and plan your approach accordingly.

Objective: Locate geese by understanding their habitat preferences.

Procedure:
1. Recognize that geese can inhabit a wide range of environments, from frozen tundra to urban areas like downtown Chicago.
2. Note that Canada geese, in particular, are highly adaptable and can survive in almost any environment with access to food and water.
3. Be aware that other goose species may be less likely to adapt to urban settings.
4. Use this information to identify potential hunting locations based on available resources.

Objective: Understand how geese feed to improve hunting strategies.

Procedure:
1. Observe that geese typically tip feed in water, foraging from the surface down to about 24 inches deep.
2. Note that their diet includes wetland vegetation, invertebrates, and waste grains from agricultural fields.
3. Use this knowledge to locate feeding areas near water sources or agricultural lands.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: The box call is a box with a movable lid that creates sound when moved.
2. Position the call: Hold the box call in one hand, ensuring the lid can move freely against the edges of the box.
3. Create pressure on the lid: Apply pressure to the lid and slide it across the edges of the box to produce sound.
4. Adjust for desired sound: Vary the speed and pressure applied to the lid to create different turkey calls (gobbling, yelping, etc.).

Notes:
• The box call is ideal for producing a wide range of turkey sounds.
• It requires practice to master the technique.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: The diaphragm call is a flexible membrane that vibrates when blown into to produce sound.
2. Position the call: Hold the diaphragm call in your mouth, ensuring it is fully sealed with your lips.
3. Blow into the call: Use your breath to create vibrations in the diaphragm, producing turkey sounds (gobbling, yelping, etc.).
4. Adjust for desired sound: Vary the pressure and speed of your breath to produce different turkey calls.

Notes:
• This call is hands-free and allows you to aim while calling.
• It requires significant practice to master and produce realistic turkey sounds.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: A gobble tube is shaken to produce gobbling-type sounds.
2. Shake the tube: Hold the tube in one hand and shake it vigorously to create sound.
3. Adjust for desired sound: Vary the speed and intensity of shaking to produce different turkey calls (gobbling, yelping, etc.).

Notes:
• This call is effective for attracting mature toms but may also attract other hunters.
• It requires practice to use effectively.

Procedure:

1. Understand the purpose: A locator call is used to locate turkeys without drawing them to your location.
2. Choose the appropriate sound: Use loud and sudden sounds (such as crow, owl, or hawk calls) to attract turkeys.
3. Use the call strategically: Make noise in areas where turkeys are likely to be during spring months.
4. Observe turkey behavior: Listen for gobbling or other responses from turkeys to locate their position.

Notes:
• Locator calls are useful for finding flocks before setting up a hunt.
• Avoid overusing the call, as it may alert turkeys to your presence.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: The pot and peg call consists of a striker (a pen-like stick) and a face that creates friction when struck.
2. Position the call: Hold the call in one hand with the striker positioned against the face of the call.
3. Strike the face: Use the striker to create friction by sliding it across the face of the call, producing sound.
4. Adjust for desired sound: Vary the pressure and speed of the strike to produce different turkey calls (gobbling, yelping, etc.).

Notes:
• The materials used on the striking surface can affect the quality and tone of the sound produced.
• Practice is recommended to achieve a realistic turkey call.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: The push button call is mounted on a shotgun or crossbow and has a button that produces sound when pressed.
2. Mount the call: Ensure the push button call is securely attached to your hunting equipment.
3. Press the button: Use your fingers to press the button, which will produce a yelping sound.
4. Adjust for desired sound: The push button call typically produces a limited range of sounds but can be effective in certain situations.

Notes:
• This call is best used for short-range calling and as a last resort when other calls are not available.
• It requires minimal practice to use effectively.

Procedure:

1. Understand the call structure: A wingbone call is made from turkey wing bones or plastic and requires use of your mouth to produce sound.
2. Position the call: Hold the wingbone in your mouth, ensuring it is fully sealed with your lips.
3. Blow into the call: Use your breath to create vibrations in the wingbone, producing turkey sounds (yelping, clucking, etc.).
4. Adjust for desired sound: Vary the pressure and speed of your breath to produce different turkey calls.

Notes:
• This call is not hands-free like the diaphragm call but can be effective with practice.
• It requires significant practice to master and produce realistic turkey sounds.

Step 1: Only take a shot when you are 100% confident in your ability to make an ethical and humane kill.

Step 2: Practice with your hunting equipment before the season begins.

Step 3: Know exactly where to aim for effective shot placement.

Step 4: Be aware of any obstructions (e.g., branches, twigs) that may affect projectile trajectory.

Step 5: Refer to visual aids or diagrams provided in field guides to understand optimal shot positions.

Shooting furbearers:

• Aim between the eyes and slightly upward for a brain shot to ensure a quick, humane kill.
• After confirming the animal is dead, carry it a short distance away and lay it with its head downhill if possible. This allows it to bleed out while you reset your trap set.
• When transporting the animal home, place it on newspapers to keep the fur clean.
• During skinning:
- Wrap paper towels around the head and secure them with duct tape to contain any blood.
- Remove the towels after skinning and rinse off any remaining blood with cold water.
• To dry the pelt, hang it in front of a fan overnight.

Important note:
Use selective trapping techniques to avoid catching pets or unintended animals.

Avoid Head-on Shot for Archers

• This shot is generally not recommended.
• The chance of hitting vital organs is lower compared to other shots.
• The only viable shot would be a heart shot, but it carries significant risks.
• A head-on shot may rupture the intestines, stomachs, and other areas with digestive juices.
• Archers should avoid this shot as the sternum will likely deflect the arrow.

Avoid Quartering to Shot for Archers

• This shot is more difficult due to increased bone areas that can be hit.
• Archers should avoid this shot as the probability of hitting a rib or shoulder is higher.
• The animal may see you draw and release, leading to it moving when the bowstring is released ("jumping the string").
• Muzzleloader and rifle hunters may not have an issue since bullets can pass through bone.

Objective: Learn how to estimate range to a moving target while in the field.

Steps:
1. Observe the size and movement of the target (e.g., a bird or decoy) relative to known reference points (e.g., trees, shrubs, or other objects).
2. Use your peripheral vision to gauge how quickly the target is moving across your field of view.
3. Compare the target's apparent size and speed with your prior experience or training materials (such as a waterfowl identification guide).
4. Adjust your estimate based on environmental factors such as wind, light conditions, and terrain.

Details:
• Practice regularly to improve accuracy in range estimation.
• Use tools like rangefinders if available for calibration during training sessions.
• Be aware that distance perception can be affected by atmospheric conditions or the target's flight pattern.

Objective: Improve wing shooting technique using the proven "swing through" method.

Steps:
1. Position yourself in a safe area with a shotgun and appropriate ammunition.
2. Focus on the target (e.g., a moving object or decoy) as it approaches.
3. Begin swinging your shotgun smoothly in the direction of the target's movement, maintaining eye contact with the target throughout the swing.
4. Continue the swing through the point where the target would be if it continued its path, ensuring that you maintain proper follow-through.
5. Practice this technique repeatedly to develop muscle memory and improve accuracy.

Details:
• Use a safe backstop or range for practice.
• Ensure proper eye dominance and alignment with the shotgun.
• Consider using a training aid such as a moving target or laser sight for feedback.

To create a pocket set for muskrats and mink:

1. Choose the location: Find a bank that is straight up and down at the waterline.
2. Dig the pocket: Dig a pocket into the bank at a level where the bottom will be about two inches below the water. The pocket should extend one to two feet into the bank and angle upward.
3. Prepare the pocket: Ensure the pocket is about six inches in diameter for muskrats or mink.
4. Place bait or lure: Put the bait or lure above water level at the back of the pocket.
5. Set the trap: Set a body-gripping or foothold trap of the correct size for the animal you plan to catch. The trap can be placed at the mouth of the hole in case the animal doesn’t want to go all the way inside.
6. Avoid dog interference: If dogs may be a concern, do not use meat or fish bait, or raccoon gland lures. Instead, place the trap well inside the pocket or make the set under cover such as low-hanging branches or exposed tree roots.
7. Shave the bank: Shave both sides of the bank to create a smooth surface that makes it easier for the animal to enter the pocket.

To create a runway set for muskrats using a colony trap:

1. Identify the location: Find an area where muskrats frequently travel back and forth in shallow water, creating runways in the mud.
2. Prepare the trap: Use a special type of cage trap called a colony trap, which has a swinging door on each end that opens easily when a muskrat enters and then falls closed after it is inside.
3. Set the trap: Place the colony trap across the runway so that the muskrat will be forced to swim in a circle, wrapping the wire around two stakes. The weight of the trap will pull the animal under the water.
4. Ensure proper water depth: Make sure the water is deep enough to keep the muskrats from sticking their noses out the top of the trap to breathe.
5. Adjust for cold weather: During cold weather, ensure that colony traps are a few inches below the daytime water level because some water sources may freeze at night and cause water levels to drop slightly.
6. Use additional traps if needed: Body-gripping traps can also be used in runways as an alternative or supplement to colony traps.

Procedure:

1. Set cable loops for swimming beaver in water.
2. The diameter of the loop should be 9 to 10 inches.
3. One-third of the loop should be above the water line.
4. Avoid setting cable devices where animals can become entangled on fences, trees, rocks, or logs.
5. Cable devices work best in animal trails or blind sets where the animal will encounter it as it travels.

Procedure:

1. Set cable loops for fox and coyote on land.
2. The diameter of the loop should be 6 to 8 inches.
3. The bottom of the loop should be 6 to 8 inches off the ground.
4. Avoid setting cable devices where animals can become entangled on fences, trees, rocks, or logs.
5. Cable devices work best in animal trails or blind sets where the animal will encounter it as it travels.

Cubby Set

• Build a cubby and make certain the back is secure so the furbearer will enter from the front.
• Dig a bed for a coil-spring trap at the opening.
• Bed the trap and cover it lightly with leaves or grass.
• Place appropriate lure or bait in the back of the cubby.

Steps:
1. Cut a bird-gutting hook from a branch (about the length and thickness of a pencil).
2. Make a small slit near the vent of the bird.
3. Insert the hook into the body cavity, twist it 3-4 times, and pull out the entrails.

Alternative Method:
1. Use hands to field-dress birds if near water.
2. Wash hands briefly before continuing.

Notes:
• Field-dressing should be done immediately after retrieving the bird.
• This helps cool the bird quickly and prevents fluids from the viscera from contaminating the body cavity.
• Birds like sage grouse, spruce grouse, and ducks that eat animal matter should have their crops removed for best flavor.
• Field-dressed birds can be left hanging in a cool, breezy place for several days without losing flavor.
• Refrigeration is only needed if keeping the birds for more than a week.

### Procedure: Skinning Big Game

Steps:
1. Cut off legs below the knee and hock joints.
2. Girdle and peel away the skin.
3. Skin the body quickly.
4. For bears, make cuts on the inside of the legs and skin out the feet while keeping the claws attached if making a rug.
5. For mountain goats, leave the hoofs attached to the skin.
6. Skinning is easier when the carcass is still warm.
7. Keep hair away from the meat.
8. Be cautious with pronghorn hair as it can taint the meat slightly.

### Head Skinning (for mounting):
1. If possible, freeze the head or take it to a taxidermist within a few days.
2. If in the bush for several weeks, skin out the head yourself, especially on bears.
3. Skin slowly and carefully around the eyes and lips.
4. Cut ears off flush with the skull.
5. Cut the entire snout off where the septum between the nostrils meets the skull.
6. Scrape all flesh away from the hide.
7. Salt the hide well, rubbing salt into it.

Steps:
1. Skin small game (rabbits and squirrels) while they are still warm.
2. Squirrels become harder to skin once cold.
3. Behead the animal and cut off its feet and tail.
4. Pinch the skin on the back and make a cut from the root of the tail to the neck.
5. Insert fingers inside the carcass and pull the skin away with the other hand (like pulling a glove off).

Notes:
• Small game can be field dressed immediately after shooting, similar to deer.
• Alternatively, wait until the animal is skinned out before dressing it.

Proper Storage:
• Avoid air-tight pockets in hunting jackets, especially on warm days.
• Use a game carrier that allows air to circulate around the birds (e.g., belt or over-the-shoulder carriers).

Field-Dressing Tips:
1. Field-dress birds immediately after retrieving them.
2. This helps with cooling and prevents contamination from viscera fluids.
3. For best flavor, dress sage grouse, spruce grouse, and ducks that eat animal matter immediately and remove their crops.
4. Even for other birds, it is preferable to field-dress them right away unless they have been badly shot.

Purpose:
To preserve small animal pelts (e.g., rabbit) before tanning.

Steps:
1. Airdry the pelt thoroughly by hanging it in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat sources.
2. Alternatively, for hobby tanning, tack the skin flat to a board with the flesh side out and allow it to air-dry completely.
3. If desired, you may also salt cure the hide, following the same procedure as used for large animal hides (see other procedures for details on salting).
4. Ensure that the pelt is completely dry before proceeding with any tanning process.

Procedure:

1. To make plucking easier, boil water in a large stock pot and dip the turkey into it outside to avoid overflow of boiling water.
2. This process lightly cooks the skin, making feathers easier to remove.
3. If you do not have a large stock pot, simply pluck the feathers manually without using hot water.

Procedure:

1. Once you harvest your turkey, notch and affix your tag to the carcass.
2. Immediately after harvesting, validate the tag by cutting out and completely removing the month and day of kill. A slit is not acceptable.
3. Ensure the tag is securely attached to the carcass in a visible manner.
4. Washington tags have little holes on the right-hand side; use this as a good spot to insert a zip tie through and attach the tag very securely to the turkey’s leg.

Procedure:

1. Include the following in your hunting pack:
- Supplies for caring for harvested game.
- Game cleaning kits, which typically include bags for organs and gloves to keep hands clean.
2. If you plan on traveling a long distance to get home, include a cooler with ice to help cool the meat and prevent spoilage.

Procedure:

1. Remove the feet by cutting around the knee area, making sure to sever the tendons.
2. Bend the leg to the side to make this easier.
3. Discard the feet unless you plan on trying them as a food item.
4. Consider saving the beard and spurs as mementos of your hunt.
5. For tips on how to preserve these mementos, check out YouTube tutorials related to turkey hunting.

Procedure:

1. Construct a bow using suitable materials (e.g., flexible branches or wood).
2. Anchor the bow to the ground with pegs, adjusting the aiming point as you secure it.
3. Lash a toggle stick to the trigger stick.
4. Drive two upright sticks into the ground to hold the trigger stick in place at a point where the toggle stick will engage the pulled bow string.
5. Place a catch stick between the toggle stick and a stake driven into the ground.
6. Tie a trip wire or cordage to the catch stick, routing it around stakes and across the game trail before tying it off.
7. When prey trips the trip wire, the bow releases an arrow that strikes the animal.
8. A notch in the bow helps aim the arrow accurately.

Procedure:

1. Gather three notched sticks for constructing the trigger.
2. Ensure that the notches are precisely cut to hold the sticks together in a figure 4 pattern when under tension.
3. Practice assembling and disassembling the figure 4 before using it in the field; this requires close tolerances and precise angles in its construction.
4. The weight used should be heavy enough to kill or incapacitate the prey immediately.
5. Secure the deadfall setup in a location where prey is likely to pass.

Procedure:

1. Select a stout pole about 2.5 meters long for the spear shaft.
2. At the smaller end, firmly lash several small stakes to secure it.
3. Lash the large end of the spear tightly to a tree along the game trail.
4. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across the trail and attach a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord.
5. From the first tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the ground, stretch it across the trail, and tie it to a catch stick.
6. Make a slip ring from vines or suitable material, encircle the trip wire and smooth stick with the slip ring.
7. Place one end of another smooth stick within the slip ring and its other end against the second tree.
8. Pull the smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail, positioning it between the short cord and the smooth stick.
9. When an animal trips the trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth sticks, releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and impales the prey against the tree.

Procedure:

1. Dig a hole 30 to 45 centimeters deep, ensuring it is wider at the bottom than at the top.
2. Make the top of the hole as small as possible to limit entry points for prey.
3. Place a piece of bark or wood over the hole, using small stones underneath to hold it up 2.5 to 5 centimeters off the ground.
4. Mice and voles will hide under the cover to escape danger and fall into the hole.
5. They cannot climb out due to the backward slope of the hole's walls.
6. Use caution when checking this trap, as it may be an excellent hiding place for snakes.

Procedure:

1. Look for droppings that resemble deer pellets, but are slightly larger.
2. Observe the shape: elk droppings typically have an acorn-like appearance, with one end dimpled and the other having a small projection.
3. Count the number of pellets: adult elk may leave twice as many pellets as deer, often between 40 to 60 at a time.
4. Note texture differences: when elk have a rich diet, their droppings may form a soft mass, similar to a domestic cowpie but smaller in size.
5. Use this information to identify areas where elk are feeding or resting and plan your hunting approach accordingly.

Procedure:

1. Look for broken shoots on browse plants, especially in areas where elk are suspected to be feeding.
2. Measure the height of the broken shoots: if they are four feet or higher off the ground, it is likely elk browsing, not deer.
3. Use this information to identify potential feeding areas that may be suitable for hunting during the season.
4. Ensure you have a good vantage point from which to observe these areas and plan your approach accordingly.

Procedure:

1. Look for cloven hooves with a split-heart shape on soft earth.
2. Measure the size of the tracks: elk tracks are approximately four inches long and three inches wide, larger and more round than deer tracks, but smaller and less round than moose tracks.
3. Check for dewclaw impressions in mud or snow, which may be visible up to several inches from the main hoof print.
4. Observe track patterns: elk trails are often several animals wide, especially at transitions between grasslands and brush/woodlands.
5. Note that elk tracks are easier to find than most animals due to their weight, which leaves clear impressions on almost any surface they walk over.
6. Look for large numbers of tracks, which may indicate a passing herd and can be followed easily if the terrain allows.

Procedure:

1. Look for mud wallows, which are typically bathtub-sized depressions with low walls of displaced mud.
2. Check for the presence of urine and droppings around the wallow, as these are often scented by bull elk to attract receptive cows during mating season.
3. Note that wallows may be musky-smelling, especially if actively used, with fresh hoofprints visible around the perimeter.
4. Identify locations where the ground is wet and muddy, usually near water sources in secluded areas where elk feel safe enough to drop their guard.
5. Recognize that abandoned wallows may fill with water and become breeding sites for amphibians like frogs and salamanders, indicating long-term use by elk.

Procedure:

1. Look for an area of flattened vegetation that is:
- Three to four feet long
- Two to three feet wide
2. These areas are typically found in dense cover or tall grasses.
3. Elk may return to the same spot over many days, so multiple 'elk beds' can be found in the same vicinity.
4. During winter, look for similarly sized depressions in the snow, often littered with old hairs.
5. If you know about these sites, it can be effective to set up near the site and watch for elk coming back to bed down at dusk or getting up in the morning.
6. Elk may also bed for a mid-day nap.

Procedure:

1. Look for small saplings and shrubs that appear to have been damaged by a hedge trimmer.
2. These rubs are created when bulls begin to vigorously rub their antlers on shrubs and trees after antler growth ceases in late summer.
3. This behavior helps rid the antlers of the velvet covering, which begins to dry up and shred as blood supply deteriorates.
4. The rubbing also covers the bone-white antler with plant compounds that oxidize and stain the antlers to their characteristic dark brown color.
5. Antler color can also be influenced by blood and how long the bull stays in the open country where antlers are exposed to sunlight.
6. These rubs occur before the rut begins, and the bulls that made them may be miles away from them, but they indicate that the area has been used by elk.

Procedure:

1. Survey areas likely to be used by elk, such as open habitats where elk can be spotted at a distance.
2. Use binoculars or a spotting scope to locate a legal elk.
3. Once an elk is spotted, sneak to within range of the elk in hopes of getting a shot.
4. This technique is commonly used when animals have been observed by a hunter and the hunter has not been detected.

Procedure:

1. Position yourself at a place along a trail, feeding site, or other elk use area.
2. Use ground blinds or tree stands to remain hidden while waiting for an opportunity to shoot.
3. Some hunters simply lean against a tree or sit on a stump near a likely area or travel corridor.
4. This technique should only be used when you know animals are close and using the area.
5. Look for areas with water present and elk sign, as these would be good places to set up a stand or blind and hunt the water hole.

Recognizing Signs of Animal Movement for Snaring

1. Look for signs of fur around the base of trees or along fence lines, as this can indicate where an animal has passed through.
2. Animals often return to the same place to sleep and will continue to negotiate fences at the same spot.
3. Use these signs to determine where to set snares or traps for maximum effectiveness.
4. Observe the terrain carefully for any unusual markings, such as claw marks, broken branches, or disturbed vegetation.
5. Pay attention to animal tracks and droppings to identify which species may be in the area.
6. Use this information to strategically place snares where animals are likely to travel.

Important Notes:
• Be patient when setting snares, as it may take time for an animal to fall into one.
• Regularly check your snares and retrieve any caught animals promptly to avoid attracting predators or scavengers.

Snaring Animals Without Weapons or Traps

1. Locate a suitable area where animals are likely to pass through, such as near water sources, along fence lines, or under trees.
2. Use a wire noose and place it in a convenient position, such as the entrance of a hole or above an animal path between two trees.
3. Ensure that the noose slides freely and anchor the other end of the wire securely to a tree or post.
4. Wait for the animal to pass through the snare; once it does, the noose will tighten around its neck quickly, killing it as it tries to pull free.
5. Check the snare regularly and retrieve the animal when possible.
6. Avoid leaving any human scent on the wire or in the area where the snare is set, as this may deter animals from approaching.

Important Notes:
• Snaring should only be used when other methods of obtaining food fail.
• This method can be effective at night when animals are less likely to see the snare.
• Be aware that snaring is considered a cruel method and should be used as a last resort.

Using the Possum Snare for Capturing Animals

1. Locate a suitable area where possums or other small animals are likely to pass through, such as near trees or under rocks.
2. Take a length of wire or strong cord and tie it into a loop using a specific method known as the possum snare technique.
3. Place the loop in a convenient position, such as the entrance of a hole or above an animal path between two trees.
4. Ensure that the noose slides freely and anchor the other end of the wire securely to a tree or post.
5. Wait for the animal to pass through the snare; once it does, the loop will tighten around its neck quickly, killing it as it tries to pull free.
6. Check the snare regularly and retrieve the animal when possible.

Important Notes:
• This method can be effective at night when animals are less likely to see the snare.
• Be aware that snaring is considered a cruel method and should be used as a last resort.

Using the Reef Knot for Snaring

1. Locate a suitable area where an animal is likely to pass through, such as near water sources or along fence lines.
2. Take a length of wire or strong cord and tie it into a reef knot (also known as a square knot) to create a secure loop.
3. Place the loop in a convenient position, such as the entrance of a hole or above an animal path between two trees.
4. Ensure that the noose slides freely and anchor the other end of the wire securely to a tree or post.
5. Wait for the animal to pass through the snare; once it does, the loop will tighten around its neck quickly, killing it as it tries to pull free.
6. Check the snare regularly and retrieve the animal when possible.

Important Notes:
• This method can be effective at night when animals are less likely to see the snare.
• Be aware that snaring is considered a cruel method and should be used as a last resort.

To use extreme caution when setting body-gripping traps under water, follow these steps:

1. Assess the environment: Ensure that you are in a safe location and that there is no risk of falling into water or being trapped below the surface.
2. Use proper tools: Always use setting tongs and a Conibear™ safety gripper when working with large body-gripping traps.
3. Carry a self-rescue rope: Always carry a length of rope with a strong loop for self-rescue in case you get caught.
4. Work with a partner: Never set traps under water or below ice alone. Always work with an instructor, experienced trapper, or trusted companion.
5. Check the trap placement: Ensure that the trap is securely fastened and that all components are properly positioned.
6. Avoid risky situations: If your trap is fastened below the water's surface or below ice, you could have a difficult time freeing yourself if caught.

Important safety considerations:
• Always work with an instructor or experienced trapper when setting traps under water or below ice.
• Use gloves to protect your hands from injury and to avoid leaving human scent on the trap.
• Practice with the same type of gloves you will use when making sets on the trapline.
• Never attempt to set body-gripping traps under water without proper training, tools, and a partner.

To use a rope for self-rescue when setting large body-gripping traps (No. 220 and above), follow these steps:

1. Prepare the rope: Ensure that you have a length of rope with a strong loop in it.
2. Position the rope: Put one foot in the loop of the rope.
3. Thread the rope through the spring eyes: Run the rope through the eyes of the spring, then around the eyes and up through the eyes again.
4. Secure the rope: Pull on the free end of the rope with your free hand or teeth until you can set the safety hook for that spring.
5. Repeat for the other spring: Repeat this procedure on the other spring until you relieve enough pressure to remove your hand.
6. Remove your foot from the loop: Once the trap is safely set, remove your foot from the loop and store the rope securely.

Important safety considerations:
• Always carry a length of rope with a strong loop when using No. 220 or larger body-gripping traps for self-rescue in case you get caught.
• Practice with an instructor or experienced trapper until you can do it correctly.
• Never attempt to set large body-gripping traps without proper tools and training.

A Safety Gripper is a device used to hold a body-gripping trap in the set position while it is being handled by a trapper.

• Purpose:
- Prevents accidental activation of the trap during handling.
- Ensures the safety of the trapper and any nearby wildlife.
• How to use:
1. Attach the safety gripper to the trap before setting it.
2. Ensure the device is properly engaged to hold the trap in place.
3. Remove the safety gripper only when the trap is ready to be set.

A Swivel is a device used at the ends and/or middle of a trap chain to reduce injury to a trapped animal.

• Purpose:
- Allows the trap chain to rotate freely, reducing pressure on the animal’s body.
- Helps prevent entanglement or injury during trapping.
• How to use:
1. Attach the swivel to the trap chain at appropriate points.
2. Ensure it is securely fastened and functions properly.
3. Check the swivel regularly for wear or damage.

When approached by a landowner who wants to hunt deer without proper permits:

1. Politely decline the request, explaining that you are there for trapping, not hunting.
2. Inform them that you are unaware of their permit status and that it is illegal to hunt without one.
3. Suggest they contact the local wildlife agency to confirm if they have a valid permit or need assistance with deer management.
4. If the landowner insists, reiterate your position clearly but respectfully, emphasizing that you cannot participate in any illegal activity.
5. Offer to help them find legal resources or alternatives, such as contacting the wildlife agency directly for guidance.
6. If necessary, seek support from local authorities if the situation becomes confrontational.

When friends express discomfort or disapproval about your trapping activities:

1. Acknowledge their feelings and listen to their concerns without becoming defensive.
2. Explain the purpose of trapping, such as fur harvesting, population control, and conservation efforts.
3. Emphasize that you follow all legal and ethical guidelines, including proper trap placement, humane methods, and respect for wildlife.
4. Invite them to learn more about responsible trapping practices if they are interested.
5. If they remain offended, respect their opinion without pressuring them to change it.
6. Maintain a respectful and open dialogue, even if you disagree on the issue.

When you discover another trapper’s trap on your property:

1. Stay calm and avoid confrontation, even if the situation is frustrating.
2. Assess the location of the trap to determine whether it could be a threat to wildlife or other trappers.
3. If possible, contact the other trapper directly to inform them about the trap on your property.
4. If you cannot contact them, mark the trap clearly and leave it in place, ensuring that it does not pose an immediate danger to animals or people.
5. Document the location and time of discovery for future reference if needed.
6. Consider reporting the situation to local wildlife agencies or trapper associations if the issue persists or becomes a recurring problem.

When accused of stealing fur from traps by individuals who claim ownership:

1. Remain calm and respectful, even if the accusation is false.
2. Explain that you have not stolen anything and that you are following legal trapping practices on private land with permission.
3. State clearly that you have not seen any other traps on the property since the season opened, reinforcing your legitimacy as a trapper.
4. If necessary, offer to show trap locations or provide evidence of your own traps, such as tags or permits, if available.
5. Avoid confrontation or argument, and emphasize that you are following conservation and trapping laws.
6. If the situation escalates, seek assistance from local authorities or wildlife agencies to resolve the issue peacefully.

Procedure:
1. Check with your furbuyer for current recommendations.
2. Consider the interest of taxidermists, as they may be willing to pay a higher price than a furbuyer.
3. Ensure the pelt is prepared according to the latest guidelines from industry professionals.

Procedure:
1. Skin the pelt and ensure it is cased.
2. Split the tail and remove all flesh & fat.
3. Ensure the fur is in when preparing for market.
4. Size considerations:
- Large: 48
- Average: 42
- Small: 34
5. Additional measurements (inches):
- 10, 9, 8
- 7.5, 6.5, 5.5
- 12.5, 12, 11.5

Procedure:
1. Skin the pelt and ensure it is cased with the fur out.
2. Leave the lower lip on during preparation.
3. Keep claws attached to maintain value.
4. If you live in an area where trapping wolverine is legal, obtain current information on pelt preparation from a furbuyer.

Procedure:

1. Select a Location: Choose an animal run or trail where the target species is likely to pass.
2. Set Up Forked Sticks: Place forked sticks on either side of the run and lay a sturdy crossmember across them.
3. Attach the Noose: Tie the noose to the crossmember and hang it at a height above the animal's head (never low enough for the prey to step into with a foot).
4. Ensure Proper Height: The noose should be high enough so that when it tightens around the animal's neck, the crossmember is pulled from the forked sticks.
5. Test the Setup: Ensure that as the animal pulls the crossmember away, surrounding vegetation will catch it and entangle the animal.

Procedure:

1. Gather Materials: Use wire or strong cordage to create the noose.
2. Position the Noose: Place the noose over a trail or den hole and secure it to a firmly planted stake.
3. Use Supports for Cordage: If using cordage, use small twigs or blades of grass to hold the noose upright on the trail.
4. Ensure Proper Size: Make sure the noose is large enough to pass freely over the animal's head.
5. Test the Snare: Ensure that as the animal moves, the noose tightens around its neck and does not slip off easily.
6. Use Wire for Better Results: Wire is more effective than cordage because it does not loosen and can hold the animal securely.

Procedure:

1. Select a Suitable Sapling: Choose a hardwood sapling along the trail and remove all branches and foliage for better performance.
2. Prepare Forked Sticks: Use two forked sticks, each with a long and short leg.
3. Bend the Twitch-Up: Bend the sapling over and secure it to the ground using a triggering device.
4. Secure Stick Legs: Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at the marked trail point. Ensure the cut on the short leg is parallel to the ground.
5. Attach Cordage: Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the twitch-up.
6. Set Up Trigger Mechanism: Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick.
7. Place Noose Over Trail: Extend a noose over the trail and set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked sticks.
8. Avoid Green Sticks: Do not use green sticks for the trigger, as sap can cause them to stick together.

Materials Needed:
• Pins, needles, wire, small nails, or pieces of metal
• Wood, bone, coconut shell, thorns, flint, seashell, or tortoise shell
• Cordage

Steps:
1. Select a material such as pins, needles, wire, small nails, or any piece of metal to make the hook.
2. Alternatively, use wood, bone, coconut shell, thorns, flint, seashell, or tortoise shell.
3. To make a wooden hook:
- Cut a piece of hardwood about 2.5 centimeters long and 6 millimeters in diameter to form the shank.
- Cut a notch in one end to place the point (bone, wire, nail, etc.).
- Place the point in the notch and tie it securely so that it does not move out of position.
4. To make smaller hooks, use smaller material.

Materials Needed:
• Small shaft of wood, bone, metal, or other material
• Cordage
• Bait

Steps:
1. Create a small shaft of wood, bone, metal, or other material to form the gorge.
2. Sharpen both ends of the shaft.
3. Cut a notch in the middle where you will tie cordage.
4. Tie the cordage securely around the notch so that it does not slip.
5. Bait the gorge by placing a piece of bait on it lengthwise.
6. When the fish swallows the bait, it also swallows the gorge.

Materials Needed:
• Two supple saplings
• Cordage
• Hooks or gorges
• Bait

Steps:
1. Drive two supple saplings into the bottom of a lake, pond, or stream with their tops just below the water surface.
2. Tie a cord between them and slightly below the surface.
3. Tie two short cords with hooks or gorges to this cord, ensuring that they cannot wrap around the poles or each other.
4. Ensure the cords do not slip along the long cord.
5. Bait the hooks or gorges.

To determine if a waterway is public or private:
1. Assess navigability of the waterway:
- A river or stream is navigable if it has a bed or bank and can support floating a canoe or other small craft at some time during the year, even if only during spring floods.
2. Public access rules for navigable waterways:
- You may walk, fish, hunt, swim, or boat in any navigable lake, stream, or impoundment as long as you remain in the water (i.e., your feet must remain wet).
3. Shore area usage restrictions:
- The public may only use the exposed shore area of a stream located below the ordinary high-water mark without permission from the riparian landowner when it is necessary to exit the water to bypass an obstruction.
4. Upland and shore area access rules:
- It is not legal to enter uplands or exposed shore areas to hunt or retrieve game without permission of the landowner.

Before heading to a new area for hunting:
1. Check property-based rules to ensure compliance with local regulations.
2. Obey all signage on the land you are visiting.
3. Be aware of your surroundings and any potential restrictions or hazards.

To hunt on private land:
1. Research property boundaries using a plat book and other available resources.
2. Knock on doors to request permission from the landowner.
3. Follow the owner’s directions while on their property.
4. Respect the land by cleaning up after yourself, including removing all shells and trash accumulated during the hunt.
5. Maintain good stewardship of private lands to ensure they remain open for hunting.

Skinned Game Birds:

• Some hunters prefer to skin their birds, mainly because it is easier.
• However, to purists, skinning game birds such as quail, ruffed grouse, pheasants, mallards, and canvasbacks is considered a bit of blasphemy.
• Skinning removes much of the fine flavor, particularly if the birds are to be roasted.
• The birds also dry out more when cooked.
• However, if the birds will be cooked in a sauce or gravy, or coated first, they can be skinned.
• Certainly such ducks as goldeneyes, bluebills, and the sea ducks are better skinned.
• Skinning removes some of the fat and the strong flavor with it.

How to Skin Game Birds:
1. Simply loosen the skin on the breast and start peeling.
2. Skinning ducks is another matter. You have to pull and cut.

Plucking Game Birds:

1. Prepare the bird: Ensure the bird has been shot cleanly and quickly, and handled properly after the shot.
2. Remove feathers manually: Take small "pinches" of feathers between the thumb and first two fingers and pull with the grain - the direction in which they lie - not against the grain to avoid tearing the skin.
3. Avoid large pinches: Do not take too large a pinch at once, as this can tear the skin.
4. Scalding for waterfowl (optional): For easier plucking of waterfowl, scald them in 145 degree water for about twenty seconds. Hold the bird by its head and dunk it into a bucket of scalding water.
5. Remove hair-like fuzz: After plucking, remove any remaining hair-like fuzz from waterfowl by singeing with a candle.
6. Wash and dry: After plucking and dressing, wash the birds carefully and dry them thoroughly.
7. Store or cook: The birds are then ready for the oven or freezer.

Note: Properly handled game can outclass supermarket birds in flavor and quality.

Title: Processing a Carcass for Meat Preservation

Overview: Processing the carcass is the final step before you can enjoy some of the deliciousness that waits. You have two options: break it down yourself or take it to a local butcher shop that processes game animals.

### Option 1: Using a Butcher Shop
• There is a fee to have the carcass processed by the butcher shop, but it is cut just like beef.

### Option 2: Processing Yourself
• If you process it yourself, you may not get the beautiful steaks and roasts that come out of a butcher shop.
• Videos of how to process elk can be found online or purchased at local sporting goods stores and online stores.
• Remember that the meat has to be protected from the freezer and freezer burn. A vacuum sealer can help your game last for many months to come.

### Procedure: Debone and Breast Out a Waterfowl

Step 1:
• Find a flat surface with good lighting.
• Place your duck on the cleaning surface with its head facing away from you and feet towards you.
• Gather a bag for feathers and carcass, along with a sharp knife.
• Locate the base of the keel where the breast bone (sternum) and keel meet at the rear (caudal) of the bird.
• Pluck feathers from there to just beyond the wishbone (furcula) and out to where the first wing bone (humerus) attaches to the body. Alternatively, press firmly with your thumbs in the empty space above the wishbone and peel the skin away from the breast meat.
• Decide whether to leave the skin and fat attached or remove them entirely. This will determine how defeathered it needs to be.

Step 2:
• Pinch the skin between your thumb and pointer finger at the base of the keel.
• Slide your knife under the skin, following the keel up to the furcula.

Step 3:
• Remove the skin from the bird by peeling it away from the breast towards the wing. Use a knife if necessary or run your fingers underneath the skin in some cases.

Step 4:
• Starting at the furcula, cut down along the keel until you hit the sternum (breast bone).
• Cut along the keel until reaching the base of the keel where you started plucking.
• Turn your knife to begin cutting the breast meat away from the sternum. This cut will be away from the keel and remove the breast meat from the sternum.

Step 5:
• Continue cutting along with the breast bone up to the bone until reaching the wishbone (furcula).
• Finish by cutting along the wishbone to remove the breast meat.
• You should end up with the breast separate from the bone. There are two muscle groups: the breast (pectoralis muscle) and the tenderloin (supracoracoideus muscle), which is slightly lighter than the main breast meat. These can be loosely attached but are easily separated.

Procedure:

Washington State is home to three turkey subspecies:

1. Eastern Wild Turkey:
- Transplanted from the eastern United States.
- Prefers mixed forests with evergreen and deciduous trees such as Douglas fir, western hemlock, western red cedar, red alder, and big leaf maple.
- Feeds on soft mast including Pacific dogwood, hawthorn, Oregon grapes, huckleberries, blackberries, cherries, and crab apples.
- Found in western Washington.
- Approximately 50 Eastern turkeys are harvested each year.
- Physical characteristics:
- Chestnut brown tail coverts.
- Tail feather tips are buff or chocolate brown.
- Adults may weigh 25 lbs. or more.

2. Merriam’s Turkey:
- Introduced to NE and south central Washington in 1960 for hunting purposes.

3. Rio Grande Turkey:
- Transplanted to suitable areas of the state after Merriam’s turkeys were introduced.

Distribution:
• Turkeys are found in five of the six regions recognized by WDFW.
• Region 4 is currently the only area without turkeys.

Territory refers to the part of an animal’s home range that it will defend from others.

• This is important for:
- Understanding animal behavior and social structures.
- Managing wildlife populations effectively.
- Preventing conflicts between animals or with humans.
• Factors influencing territory size include:
- Availability of food and water.
- Breeding season.
- Species-specific behaviors.
• Monitoring territories helps in conservation efforts and habitat management.

A species is a group of like animals capable of interbreeding.

• This classification helps in:
- Identifying and protecting endangered species.
- Managing wildlife populations effectively.
- Ensuring genetic diversity within ecosystems.
• Examples include:
- Different types of deer, birds, or fish that can interbreed.
- Species that are closely related but cannot interbreed are considered different species.

Procedure:

1. Determine Location:
- Rocky Mountain elk are found east of the Cascade Crest.
- Roosevelt elk are located on the Olympic Peninsula.
- Hybrids of both species are common in the Cascade Range.

2. Observe Physical Characteristics:
- Rocky Mountain Elk: Slightly lighter in color, generally smaller than Roosevelt elk. Their antlers are more slender with longer tines and less palmation.
- Roosevelt Elk: Larger in size, darker legs and necks, and have a distinctive crown or three-point tip on their antlers.

3. Use Habitat Clues:
- Rocky Mountain elk ranges vary from 2,500 to 10,000 acres with distinct summering and wintering areas.
- Roosevelt elk ranges are smaller (1,500 to 4,000 acres) due to milder climates and more abundant food sources.

Merriam’s turkeys are native to the coniferous mountains and canyons of Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. They live in the canyons and forests of northeast and central Washington. These turkeys prefer forests that contain ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, western white pine, Engelman spruce, Douglas maple, willows, cottonwoods, and aspens.

In Washington, they eat grass leaves and seeds, ponderosa pine seeds, acorns, grasshoppers, forbs, and fruits like wild strawberries. They prefer to roost in Douglas fir and grand fir trees.

Physical characteristics:
• White or buff tail coverts
• Nearly white tail tips
• May weigh up to 25 lbs.

Turkey tracks can be found in snow, soft mud, or light dirt areas.

Track characteristics:
• About 4 inches long
• Three long toes that face forward, one small toe that faces back (about 1 inch)
• The middle toe of a hen is smaller than 2 ½ inches, while the middle toe of a mature tom is more than 2 ½ inches.

Additional clues:
• When strutting, toms will leave wing drag marks.

To find hunting access on public land in Washington State:

1. Visit WDFW’s wildlife areas as a starting point for hunting.
2. Use the WDFW Hunting Access webpage at [https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/locations](https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/locations) to locate public hunting access on private lands.
3. Refer to the booklet on how to find hunting access, available through WDFW.
4. Use the Hunting Regulations Webmap at [https://geodataservices.wdfw.wa.gov/huntregs/](https://geodataservices.wdfw.wa.gov/huntregs/) to explore regulations data by selecting criteria or clicking on the map for hunt type information.
5. The webmap can also show public/private ownership, private lands hunting opportunities, water access sites, and satellite imagery.
6. This tool is available for use on smartphones.
7. Review the annual hunting prospects online at [https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/locations](https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/locations) to see WDFW biologist expectations for each of the 17 districts.

To gain access to private property for hunting:

1. Scout your desired area and locate lands you might want to hunt.
2. Knock on the door of the landowner to request permission.
3. If no house is visible, obtain landowner contact information from the county tax assessor office.
4. Be prepared for the possibility that a landowner may refuse access, and thank them for their time if they do.
5. Persist in your search to find lightly hunted areas and potentially make new friends.
6. Consider alternative options such as hunt clubs or hiring a guide who has access to private farms and ranches.

Step 1: Visit the [WDFW website](https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/locations) to access annual hunting prospects.

Step 2: Review the information broken into 17 districts, each managed by a specific biologist.

Step 3: Use these prospects to understand WDFW biologists’ expectations for hunting during the current season.

Procedure:

1. Arrow Materials and Construction:
- Arrows are generally constructed of wood, aluminum, or carbon fiber.
- Refer to the manufacturers' table to determine which arrow type and size fit your bow and shooting conditions best.

2. Consultation with Retailers:
- If unsure about the arrows to purchase, consult with an archery retailer for guidance.

3. Arrow Specifications for Big Game Hunting:
- Arrows must be at least 20 inches in length and weigh no less than 6 grains per pound of draw weight, with a minimum arrow weight of 300 grains.

Procedure:

1. Broadhead Requirements:
- When hunting big game with archery equipment, broadheads must be used.
- Ensure that the broadhead is at least 7/8" in diameter.

2. Consistency Between Broadheads and Field Points:
- Consider purchasing broadheads of the same weight as the field points used for target practice to minimize sight adjustment in your bow.

Procedure:

1. Compound Bow Characteristics:
- These are the most popular hunting bows due to their ease of use.
- They have a mechanical let off, reducing draw weight by up to 85% at full draw.
- Compound bows are always strung and ready to go.

2. Traditional Bow Characteristics:
- Traditional bows include longbows and recurve bows.
- These do not have mechanical let off when holding at full draw.
- They must be strung before use, as keeping them strung would cause the bow to lose power by forming to the strung position.

3. Effectiveness of Bows:
- Both compound and traditional bows are equally effective for harvesting animals if the shooter is proficient with them.

To legally hunt with a muzzleloader in Washington State:

Projectile Options:
• Any type of projectile is legal as long as it meets the caliber requirements mentioned above.
• Sabots are allowed, which can improve accuracy and lethality.

Buckshot Use:
• If using a smooth-bored muzzleloader, you may shoot buckshot as long as the caliber is .60 or larger.
• Buckshot size #1 or larger is permitted for elk hunting in smoothbores of .60 caliber or larger.

To legally hunt big game with a muzzleloader in Washington State, ensure your firearm meets these specifications:

Muzzleloader Requirements:
1. The firearm must be loaded from the muzzle and use black powder or a black powder substitute as recommended by the manufacturer.
2. A muzzleloading firearm is considered loaded if it contains a powder charge and projectile (shot or single projectile) with the barrel or breech capped or primed.

Caliber Requirements:
• For elk, the muzzleloader must be .40 caliber or larger. Buckshot size #1 or larger may be used in a smoothbore of .60 caliber or larger.
• For other big game, the muzzleloader must be .45 caliber or larger.

Shotgun Requirements:
• A double barrel, rifled or smooth-bored muzzleloading shotgun is allowed for all big game hunting except elk (where it must be .60 caliber or larger with buckshot size #1 or larger).
• Persons lawfully hunting small game may keep both barrels of a double barrel muzzleloader loaded.

Handgun Requirements:
• A muzzleloading handgun must have a single or double barrel of at least eight inches, be rifled, and be capable of being loaded with forty-five grains or more of black powder or substitute per the manufacturer's recommendations.
• For big game hunting, it must be .45 caliber or larger.

Legal Projectiles:
• Any type of projectile is allowed as long as it meets the caliber requirements mentioned above.
• Sabots are allowed.

To legally hunt with a muzzleloader during a muzzleloading season in Washington State, the firearm must meet these specifications:

Ignition Requirements:
• The ignition system must be wheel lock, matchlock, flintlock, or percussion. Primers designed for modern cartridges are legal.

Sight Requirements:
• Sights must be open, peep, or other open sight design. Fiber optic sights are allowed.
• Telescopic sights or any sight containing glass are prohibited.

Electrical Device Restrictions:
• It is unlawful to attach any electrical device or equipment to a muzzleloading firearm while hunting.

Double Barrel Restrictions:
• Persons lawfully hunting big game with a double barrel muzzleloader may only keep one barrel loaded at a time.

### Crafting Dart Shafts
Dart shafts can be made from a variety of materials, including:
• Bamboo skewers
• Small nails
• Sewing needles (for use on tiny game and/or with poison)
• Bike spokes
• Metal skewers
• Pencils
• Awls
• Scavenged wood or twigs

### Creating Fletching for Darts
If feather-like fletching is desired, you can utilize the following materials:
• Feathers
• Yarn
• Frayed cigarette filters
• Wadded up cloth of any kind
• Thistle down
• Down feathers
• Clematis fluff
• Usnea wads
• Fur wads

Any light, fluffy, and easily compacted natural or synthetic material can be used for fletching.

### Creating Cones for Darts
If cones are desired rather than fletching, materials include:
• Thimbles
• Duct tape cones (super easy and very durable)
• Paper cones
• Dart bodies that match the exact diameter of the blowgun, which require neither fletching nor a cone to propel them

For this type of dart, you can use:
• Small pieces of glue stick with needles or nails shoved through them
• Pencil erasers with needles embedded in the rubber
• Wooden dowels cut into small pieces with a nail or other stabbing implement attached

### Creating Broadhead Darts
If broadhead darts are desired in place of simple straight points, you can use:
• X-acto knife blades
• Razor blades
• Some dremel attachments
• Any of a thousand other small, broad, sharp civil objects

### Materials Needed
• Duct tape

### Steps to Create a Cone
1. Take a piece of duct tape and fold it into a cone shape.
2. Secure the edges with additional duct tape or by pressing them together firmly.
3. Ensure that the cone is sturdy and compact enough to fit onto a dart shaft.
4. Attach the cone to the dart using glue, tape, or any other binding material available.

### Notes
• Duct tape cones are super easy to make and very durable.
• They provide excellent aerodynamics for blow darts.

### Materials Needed
• A ring or a large enough diameter for an arrow to pass through (metal, plastic, or any other material)
• Binding materials such as rubber tubing, strips of bicycle innertube, zip ties, rubber bands, stiff cordage, or similar items

### Steps to Modify the Slingshot
1. Find a ring or a large enough diameter for an arrow to pass through.
2. Situate and fix the ring in the center of the two forked arms of the slingshot using binding materials such as rubber tubing, strips of bicycle innertube, zip ties, rubber bands, stiff cordage, or any other suitable material.
3. The ring will act as an arrow rest, allowing you to draw the arrow to its full length without dropping it.

### Alternative Arrow Rests
• Thick, stiff wire can be used to create a custom arrow rest.
• Coat hangers or other pseudo-flexible wiry materials can also be fashioned into arrow rests.

### Notes
• This modification allows slingshots to fire full-size arrows and hunt larger game.
• The modified slingshot is sometimes referred to as a 'slingbow.'

Check live-restraining traps at first light each morning, as most furbearers are nocturnal.

If checking at daylight is not possible, check them as early in the day as possible.

Daily trap checks are a key responsibility of trappers. This differs from hunting, where hunters can choose when to hunt.

Do not skip trap checks due to bad weather or other problems. Consistency is critical for animal welfare.

If illness prevents you from checking traps, have another licensed trapper check your line.
• Ensure a licensed friend or family member knows:
- Where your sets are located
- How to check or remove your traps
• Keep notes and sketches showing trap locations

Definition: All of the traps and sets in use at a given time by a single trapper.

Action Steps:
1. Plan and organize all trap placements for a specific trapping season or period.
2. Ensure that each trap is set according to legal regulations and ethical guidelines.
3. Monitor and maintain all traps within the trapline regularly.
4. Keep records of trap locations, types, and check times for effective management.
5. Adjust the trapline as needed based on wildlife activity and environmental conditions.

Reasons to check your traps early each morning:

• Animal welfare: Ensures trapped animals are not suffering unnecessarily.
• Prevent escape from live-restraining traps: Animals can be released if they are non-target species or if the trap is malfunctioning.
• Release non-target animals: Allows for humane handling of unintended catches.
• Increase success rate: If you remove an animal and reset the trap, you may catch another one.
• Most furbearers are nocturnal: Checking traps early in the day increases your chances of catching them before they become active again.
• Reduce chances of fur or trap theft: Frequent checks make it less likely for others to steal your catch or equipment.
• Reduce chances of predation on your catch: Prevents predators from discovering and attacking your trapped animals.
• Shows responsibility to landowners: Demonstrates that you are a responsible trapper, which can help maintain good relationships with landowners and the public.
• Provides time for processing fur: Gives you time during the day or evening to skin or sell your catch.
• Allows for trap set remakes: If traps have been disturbed, you can reset them properly.

Additional benefits:
• Less chance of animals or traps being stolen.
• Less chance of predation on your catch.
• Less chance of an animal escaping from a restraining device.
• Less chance of an animal injuring itself or damaging its pelt.

Procedure:

1. Identify species of birds that can be taken by hand from their roost at night.
2. Approach the roost carefully and quietly to avoid startling the birds.
3. Use gloves or thick cloth to handle the birds to prevent injury.
4. Skin fish-eating birds to improve their flavor.
5. Be aware of nesting seasons, as some species will not leave the nest even when approached.
6. Observe bird behavior to identify regular flyways from roosts to feeding areas, water sources, etc.
7. Set up nets across these flyways for trapping birds.
8. Use roosting sites and waterholes as prime locations for trapping or snaring birds.

Procedure:

1. Locate a nesting site where birds are laying eggs.
2. Carefully approach the nest without disturbing it.
3. Remove all but two or three eggs from the clutch.
4. Mark the remaining eggs (e.g., with a small notch or using a non-toxic marker).
5. The bird will continue to lay more eggs to fill the clutch.
6. Continue removing fresh eggs, leaving only the marked ones until no new eggs are being laid.
7. Collect the harvested eggs promptly and store them in a cool, dry place.

Title: Construct and Use a Squirrel Pole

Procedure:

1. Select Location: Place the squirrel pole in an area showing high squirrel activity.
2. Prepare the Pole: Use a long pole (length not specified) and position it against a tree.
3. Install Wire Nooses:
- Attach several wire nooses along the top and sides of the pole.
- Ensure each noose is approximately 5 to 6 centimeters in diameter.
- Position the nooses about 2.5 centimeters away from the pole surface.
4. Position Nooses Strategically:
- Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45 centimeters from the top and bottom of the pole respectively.
- This prevents squirrels from getting their feet on a solid surface, which could allow them to chew through the wire.
5. Operation:
- Squirrels will eventually attempt to climb up or down the pole and get caught in one of the nooses.
- The struggling squirrel will fall from the pole and strangle.
6. Capture Multiple Squirrels:
- Once a squirrel is captured, other squirrels may follow due to curiosity and will also be caught.

Title: Construct and Use a Treadle Spring Snare

Procedure:

1. Select Location: Set up the snare on a trail where small game is likely to pass.
2. Dig Hole in Trail: Dig a shallow hole in the trail.
3. Install Forked Sticks:
- Drive forked sticks (fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole, on the same side of the trail.
4. Span with Straight Sticks:
- Use two fairly straight sticks to span the two forks.
5. Position Sticks Over Hole:
- Place several sticks over the hole in the trail by positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the opposite side of the hole.
6. Cover Hole with Sticks:
- Cover the hole with enough sticks so that prey must step on at least one to set off the snare.
7. Set Up Cordage System:
- Tie one end of a piece of cordage to a twitch-up or weight suspended over a tree limb.
- Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to determine where to tie a 5 centimeter long trigger.
8. Form Noose:
- Form a noose with the other end of the cordage and route it over the top of the sticks covering the hole.
9. Secure Trigger Stick:
- Place the trigger stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind the sticks so that tension from the power source holds it in place.
10. Adjust Horizontal Stick:
- Adjust the bottom horizontal stick to barely hold against the trigger.
11. Operation:
- When an animal steps on a stick across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot.
12. Use Channelization:
- Because of disturbances on the trail, animals may become wary. Use channelization techniques to guide them toward the snare.

Procedure:

1. Select a stout stick as long as your arm, from fingertip to shoulder, called a rabbit stick.
2. This tool is effective against small game that freezes in place when threatened.
3. You can throw the rabbit stick either overhand or sidearm with considerable force.
4. Ensure it is thrown accurately at the target for maximum effectiveness.

Procedure:

1. Construct a spear using suitable materials such as long, sturdy branches or poles.
2. Use the spear to jab at small game, ensuring it is driven into the prey with enough force to kill it.
3. Do not throw the spear; instead, use it for close-range hunting or fishing.
4. Ensure that the spear is sharp and well-balanced for effective use.

Materials Needed:
• Straight dry sticks
• Hot coals
• Cordage
• Arrowheads (bone, glass, metal, or rock)

Steps:
1. Select arrows from the straightest dry sticks available. The arrows should be about half as long as the bow.
2. Scrape each shaft smooth all around.
3. Straighten the shaft if necessary by heating it over hot coals and holding it straight until it cools.
4. Make arrowheads from bone, glass, metal, or pieces of rock.
5. Sharpen and fire harden the end of the shaft by holding it over hot coals without scorching or burning the wood.
6. Notch the ends of the arrows for the bowstring. Cut or file the notch; do not split it.
7. Optionally, add fletching (feathers) to the notched end of an arrow to improve flight characteristics.

Materials Needed:
• A hardwood stick about one meter long, free of knots or limbs
• Cordage

Steps:
1. Select a hardwood stick about one meter long that is free of knots or limbs.
2. Carefully scrape the large end down until it has the same pull as the small end.
3. Examine the natural curve of the stick and ensure you scrape from the side that faces you to avoid breaking the bow on first use.
4. Prefer dead, dry wood over green wood for better performance.
5. To increase the pull, lash a second bow to the first, front to front, forming an "X" when viewed from the side.
6. Attach the tips of the bows with cordage and only use a bowstring on one bow.

Procedure:

1. Position the Animal: Lay the animal on its back with its head uphill if possible. Anchor it with rocks or tie its legs apart to trees.
2. Avoid Musk Glands: Do not touch the musk glands below the hocks, which are marked by tufts of dark hair and can taint your hands with an oily odor.
3. Loosen Anus and Rectum: Cut around the rump near the anus and rectum, then tie them firmly.
4. Make Abdominal Incision: Make a cut from the pelvic bone up to the rib cage, slowly with the edge of the knife pointing upwards. Use two fingers to lift the skin and abdominal wall away from internal organs as you cut. Avoid puncturing the intestines.
5. Loosen Penis: Cut around the penis and loosen it at this time.
6. Cut Diaphragm: Loosen the diaphragm by cutting close to the ribs, separating the stomach and intestines from the lungs and heart.
7. Remove Windpipe and Gullet: In deer-sized animals, reach up and grasp the windpipe and gullet, then cut them off as high as possible with your other hand. For elk or moose-sized animals, split the ribs with an ax or hatchet to access these organs.
8. Strip Viscera: Pull the windpipe and gullet backward to strip all viscera and organs from the carcass. Use occasional knife cuts to free internal organs from mesentery tissues as you pull.
9. Finish Rectum: Cut from the inside of the carcass near the pelvis and pull the anus through to finish loosening it.
10. Remove Offal: Drag the offal away, keeping the heart and liver.

Additional Steps:
• Wipe up any spilled matter from intestines and blood inside the carcass using a dry rag, moss, or leaves. If washing with water is necessary, dry the cavity thoroughly afterward to prevent spoilage.
• Cut away musk glands on the hind legs by pinching and pulling them upward while sliding a sharp knife under them and cutting along the base. Dispose of the removed glands and clean your hands and knife before touching meat.
• In mild weather (early fall), quarter moose or elk carcasses to allow quicker cooling. Hang the quarters in a cool, breezy spot away from the sun.
• Skin and quarter every big game animal while it is still warm for optimal meat preservation. Place the meat in loose cheesecloth and let it cool.
• Trim away badly shot meat to prevent spoilage.
• Keep all dressed carcasses off the ground to allow proper cooling. Prop elk or moose carcasses up with logs and poles if necessary.
• Hang deer-sized animals whole for a few days to fourteen days in a cool, breezy spot depending on temperature:
- If above fifty degrees: four to five days is fine.
- If between twenty and forty degrees: two weeks is excellent.
• Age wild meat properly like beef (aged at thirty-five degrees for two weeks) for tenderness.
• Trim away as much fat as possible, as it contains much of the gamy flavor that many people find objectionable.

Field Dressing is removing the internal organs from the animal. This should be done as soon as practical after the animal is recovered. Doing this sooner decreases the chances that the intestines, stomachs, and other areas of the elk that have digestive juices may rupture. Below are the steps for a recommended way to field dress an elk:

1. Roll the elk onto its back.
2. Find the bottom of the ribcage.
3. Insert your knife just below the bottom of the ribcage, angled towards the head.
4. Cut up the sternum towards the head, splitting the breastbone to the base of the neck.
5. Return to the bottom of the ribcage.
6. Place the knife between your index and middle fingers, while keeping the blade tip covered.
7. Slowly cut down the belly to the base of the anus.
- You can also use a knife with a gut hook if you have one.
- Make sure to leave proof of sex naturally attached to the carcass.
8. Cut around the anus and pull it out slightly.
9. Tie the anus in a knot or use some string around the exposed lower intestine, to make sure no droppings get on your meat.
10. Cut into the meat to expose the pelvis.
11. Using a bone saw or sharp hatchet, carefully split the pelvis where the lower intestine goes through the bone.
12. Move back up to the neck area.
13. Sever the windpipe as high as you can.
14. Tie this into a knot or close it with string.
15. If you want to keep and eat the heart, move down to the chest cavity and remove it.
- The heart and liver are eaten by some hunters. Place these organs into a game bag to keep them clean and cool.
16. Slowly cut the diaphragm that separated the heart and lungs from the intestines and stomach, making sure not to puncture any organs.
17. Move along the spine and detach the innards as close to the backbone as possible.
18. Gently pull the lower intestines out from between the split bone.
19. If you want to keep the liver, collect it from the entrails now.
20. Once all connections are severed, roll the animal on to its side and slide the entrails out.

Purpose: The federal duck stamp is required to hunt waterfowl in the United States since 1934. Ninety-eight cents of every duck stamp dollar goes directly into the Migratory Bird Conservation Fund to purchase vital wetland and wildlife habitat or acquire conservation easements for inclusion in the National Wildlife Refuge System.

Procedure:
1. Purchase a federal duck stamp at a US Post Office.
2. If a physical stamp is not available, it will be sent to you by mail.
3. Ensure the stamp is properly affixed to your hunting license or documentation as required by law.

Purpose: The goose permit allows you to pursue Canada geese, Snow Geese, Ross’ geese, Greater White-fronted geese, and Brant.

Procedure:
1. Purchase the goose permit for $3.
2. Ensure the permit is properly affixed to your hunting license or documentation as required by law.
3. Follow all state and federal regulations regarding waterfowl hunting seasons and bag limits.

Procedure:

1. Skin the furbearer as soon as possible after trapping to ensure the pelt is easier to remove and less likely to be damaged.
2. Put on a pair of latex gloves before beginning any skinning or processing steps.
3. The gloves will help protect you from diseases that the animal may be carrying.

Objective: Remember and apply the T-A-B-K principle to ensure safe hunting practices.

Steps:
1. Take time to learn about your surroundings, including terrain, weather conditions, and potential hazards.
2. Always be aware of your position relative to other hunters, landowners, and non-hunters in the field.
3. Be prepared with proper equipment (e.g., firearms, safety gear, first aid kit) and knowledge of local regulations.
4. Know what you are shooting at by using identification guides or practicing regularly to improve your ability to recognize game species.

Details:
• The T-A-B-K principle is a key component of hunter education programs and promotes safe hunting practices.
• Being aware of your environment helps prevent accidents and ensures that all users of the land are respected.
• Regular practice with identification guides improves accuracy and reduces the risk of shooting non-target species.

Consider the following when selecting a boat for waterfowl hunting:

• Canoes and Kayaks: Ideal for 1 or 2 persons on smaller water bodies, allowing access to areas larger boats or people on foot cannot reach. They are also useful for packing gear and retrieving birds in deep water.
• Larger Boats with Motors: Better suited for hunting with larger groups or on larger bodies of water. These boats allow hunters to haul more equipment.

Safety Tip: Always wear a life vest when using any type of watercraft.

Choosing the Right Hunting Boots:

1. Consider Insulation Needs:
- For cold weather hunting (e.g., eastern Washington), select boots with 2000 grams of insulation to keep feet warm.
- Avoid overly insulated boots for warmer conditions, such as turkey hunting in May, to prevent hot foot issues.

2. Prioritize Comfort and Support:
- Choose boots that provide ankle support to reduce fatigue during long hunts.
- Ensure the boots are waterproof to keep feet dry in wet or muddy conditions.

3. Match Boots to Hunting Conditions:
- If hunting in varied climates, consider versatile boots that can handle both cold and warm environments.
- Test boots before purchasing to ensure they fit well and allow for proper movement.

1. Bag the feathers and carcass and properly dispose of them.
2. Clean the breast meat under cold running water before eating or freezing.
3. To remove remaining feathers or down from a breast with skin still attached:
- Use a flame (usually from a torch) to burn them off.
4. Check the meat for pellets and remove them, to avoid an unscheduled dentist appointment (many nontoxic loads are very hard and can chip a tooth if bitten too hard).
5. Properly store your meat for future meals.

Materials Required:
• A sturdy pole or log (approximately 6 to 8 feet long)
• Rope or chain
• Bait

Steps:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where martens are likely to travel, such as near trails or feeding areas.
2. Set Up the Pole: Insert the pole into the ground at an angle so that it is slightly leaning towards the bait location. The top of the pole should be about 3 feet above the ground.
3. Place Bait: Put the bait in a small hole dug into the ground near the base of the pole, about 1 foot away from the pole.
4. Set the Trigger Mechanism: Use a tripwire or stick to create a trigger mechanism that will release the deadfall bar when an animal steps on it.
5. Test the Trap: Gently pull the trigger to ensure that the deadfall bar falls correctly and lands on the bait.

Notes:
• Ensure the trap is camouflaged to avoid detection by animals or humans.
• Check the trap regularly to prevent unnecessary suffering to non-target animals.

Materials Required:
• A sturdy pole or log (approximately 6 to 8 feet long)
• A deadfall bar or log
• Rope or chain
• Bait

Steps:
1. Select the Location: Choose an area where animals are likely to travel, such as near trails or feeding areas.
2. Set Up the Pole: Insert the pole into the ground at an angle so that it is slightly leaning towards the bait location. The top of the pole should be about 3 feet above the ground.
3. Attach the Deadfall Bar: Secure the deadfall bar to the top of the pole using rope or chain. Ensure that the bar is positioned so that it will fall directly onto the bait when triggered.
4. Place Bait: Put the bait in a small hole dug into the ground near the base of the pole, about 1 foot away from the pole.
5. Set the Trigger Mechanism: Use a tripwire or stick to create a trigger mechanism that will release the deadfall bar when an animal steps on it.
6. Test the Trap: Gently pull the trigger to ensure that the deadfall bar falls correctly and lands on the bait.

Notes:
• Ensure the trap is camouflaged to avoid detection by animals or humans.
• Check the trap regularly to prevent unnecessary suffering to non-target animals.

Procedure for Selecting a Washington State Elk Hunting License and Transport Tag:

1. Choose Your License Type:
- Consider the following license options:
- Deer, Elk, Bear, and Cougar License
- Deer, Elk, Bear, and Cougar License with discounted Small game
- Deer and Elk License
- Deer and Elk License with discounted Small game license
- Deer License
- Deer License with discounted Small game license
- Elk License
- Elk License with discounted Small game license
- Bear License
- Bear License with discounted Small game license
- Cougar License
- Cougar License with discounted Small game license
- Discounts are available if you purchase a small game license and big game license together at the same time.

2. Declare Weapon Type and Area:
- When purchasing your elk license, declare:
- Weapon type: Archery, Muzzleloader, or Modern Firearm.
- Area: Eastern or Western Washington.
- This declaration is required to receive your transport tag.

3. Transport Tag Options:
- Transport tags are included in the cost of the license.
- If you haven’t decided on a weapon type or area when purchasing your license, you can choose to have your tag printed later.
- Ensure that you obtain your transport tag before heading out to hunt.

4. Season Restrictions:
- Hunters must only hunt during the season that matches their tag:
- Archery Season: Only archery equipment is allowed.
- Muzzleloader Season: Archery or muzzleloader equipment is allowed.
- Modern Firearm Season: Archery, muzzleloader, or modern firearm equipment is allowed.
- The hunting seasons for elk are divided by weapon type and area to prevent overcrowding.

5. Season Length Determination:
- WDFW sets the season length based on:
- Harvest rates
- Seasonal animal surplus projections.

Procedure:

1. Purchase a Small Game License:
- This license allows hunting of small game such as upland birds, rabbits, and unclassified animals like coyote.
2. Purchase a Turkey Transport Tag:
- Required to legally harvest turkeys in Washington State.
3. Consider purchasing a Combination License (Small Game + Big Game):
- This provides a discount if purchased together at the same time.
- Allows hunting of big game species, small game, and unclassified animals.

Limits on Harvesting Turkeys:
• You may harvest up to seven turkeys during the entire hunting season.
• Spring Season (April–May):
- Up to three turkeys can be harvested.
- In eastern Washington, only two turkeys may be taken, with one turkey limited to Chelan, Kittitas, and Yakima counties combined.
- In western Washington (outside Klickitat County), only one turkey may be taken per year.
- In Klickitat County, you may take up to two turkeys during the spring season.
• Early Fall Season:
- Additional turkeys can be harvested in some GMUs (Game Management Units), with a limit of three additional turkeys.
• Late Fall Season:
- One more turkey may be taken in the late fall season.

Important Notes:
• Tags are not tied to specific seasons, so tags purchased during spring can be used for fall hunts.
• Once purchased, tags cannot be refunded, so it is recommended to purchase as you hunt.
• All turkey tag purchasers must report their harvest by January 31 each year. Reporting instructions are provided at the end of this booklet.

Rare species are animals that are very uncommon, even in their favored habitat.

• These species require special attention to ensure their survival.
• If you encounter a rare species:
1. Do not attempt to trap or handle it.
2. Keep your distance and avoid disturbing its environment.
3. Report the sighting to local wildlife authorities.
• Rare species may be protected by law, so it is important to follow regulations.
• Avoid activities that could harm their habitat or disrupt their natural behavior.

Steps to Place Ground Blinds Legally:

1. Secure Landowner Consent:
- Always obtain permission from the landowner before placing any ground blinds on private property.
- Respect boundaries and avoid trespassing or damaging crops or vegetation without consent.

2. Check Public Land Regulations:
- If hunting on public land, consult the agency that manages the area (e.g., Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife) for rules regarding blind placement.
- Follow all posted regulations to ensure compliance with local laws and avoid fines or legal issues.

To ensure ethical hunting practices:

1. Reflect on your personal ethics and compare them to what the public may consider ethical.
2. Strive to raise your ethical standards to the highest level, as encouraged by WDFW.
3. Avoid unethical behaviors such as:
- Shooting at birds outside your equipment’s effective range.
- Shooting birds while on land, water, or foliage.
- Hogging all of the shots from your hunting party.
- Shooting a deer or elk at 1000 yards.
- Using a bow or firearm that is not properly sighted in.
4. Ethical hunting improves public perception and benefits the sport.

Step 1: Reflect on your personal definition of ethical hunting and compare it to what the public may consider ethical.

Step 2: Strive to raise your ethical standards to the highest level as encouraged by WDFW.

Step 3: Avoid unethical practices such as:
• Shooting at birds outside your equipment’s effective range
• Shooting birds while on land, water, or foliage
• Hogging all shots from a hunting party
• Taking a shot at a deer or elk from 1000 yards
• Using improperly sighted-in bows or firearms

To ensure safe handling and storage of your muzzleloader equipment:

Safety Practices:
1. Never fill the muzzleloader directly from the powder can flask or powder horn, as it could spark and ignite the powder in the container.
2. Mark your ramrod when the muzzleloader is empty so you can confirm it is empty upon storage.
3. Seat the wad and shot directly on top of the powder charge to ensure proper loading.
4. Store powder and percussion caps separately, in dry and cool places.

Handling a Hang Fire:
• If a hang fire occurs (the trigger is pulled, the percussion cap ignites, but the firearm does not fire), keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction for at least 30 seconds.
• If it still does not fire after 30 seconds, put on another cap or re-prime the pan, and fire again.
• Ensure the nipple is clean on percussion locks to prevent hang fires.

To ensure the proper function and safety of your muzzleloader:

Powder Selection:
• Use only black powder or a black powder substitute that is rated for your muzzleloader. Using the wrong type of powder can be disastrous.

Loading Practices:
• Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for loading procedures, including the amount and type of powder to use.
• Ensure the powder charge is properly seated, followed by a wad and projectile.

Procedure:

1. Use a handgun with a minimum barrel length of 4 inches per manufacturer’s specification.
2. Fire a minimum .24 caliber centerfire cartridge for big game (except cougar).
3. Cougar may be hunted with a .22 caliber centerfire handgun.
4. Rimfire handguns are not legal for big game hunting.
5. Modern handguns cannot be used to hunt big game during muzzleloading firearm seasons or to dispatch wounded big game during those seasons.
6. Handguns can be carried for personal protection, but they must not be used for hunting purposes outside the specified regulations.

Procedure:

1. Choose a rifle with a minimum .24 caliber (6mm) centerfire cartridge.
2. Popular calibers for elk hunting include:
- .243
- .270
- 7mm mag
- .308
- 30-06
- .300 mag
3. Ensure the rifle is capable of firing bullets that transfer sufficient energy to the target.
4. For elk hunting, use bullets weighing between 180 grains or more for optimal performance.
5. Consider bullet design:
- Polymer-tipped bullets may mushroom faster and wider than lead-tipped bullets.
- All-copper bullets are popular due to their effectiveness in big game hunting.
6. Ensure the rifle is legal for use during modern firearm seasons.

Materials Needed:
• Tree stand
• Safety harness
• Ladder (if required)

Steps:
1. Choose the Location: Select a tree that is sturdy and in an area where elk are likely to pass.
2. Position the Stand: If using a ladder, climb the tree with the ladder and attach the stand to the tree at a suitable height. For climbing stands, use the climbing mechanism to ascend the tree and secure the stand.
3. Always Wear a Safety Harness: Before climbing or while in the tree, always wear and use a safety harness to prevent falls and accidents.
4. Check for Stability: Ensure the stand is securely fastened to the tree and that it can support your weight without wobbling.
5. Use with Caution: Be aware of your surroundings and move carefully while in the tree stand to avoid startling wildlife or causing unnecessary noise.

Materials Needed:
• Sharp knife
• Knife sharpener
• Bone saw (optional)

Steps:
1. Choose the Right Knife: Select a knife that is comfortable in your hand and suitable for the tasks you will be performing, such as field dressing or skinning.
2. Keep the Blade Sharp: A sharp knife is essential for efficient cutting. Use a knife sharpener regularly to maintain the edge of the blade.
3. Use Appropriate Knives for Specific Tasks:
- Skinning Knives: Choose a knife with a deep belly in the blade to avoid cutting through the hide. Some may come with a gut hook for easy access to the chest cavity.
- Boning Knives: Use straighter knives with thinner blades for deboning meat from bones.
- Caping Knives: Opt for shorter blades for fine detail work when removing skin from the head region of big game animals.
4. Use a Bone Saw for Pelvis Cuts: A bone saw is recommended for cutting through the pelvis to facilitate easier removal of internal organs without pulling them through the body cavity.

To create a realistic deer dummy for hunting games:

1. Construct the frame: Use a wire frame to form the basic shape of a deer.
2. Wrap with hay: Wrap soft hay around the wire frame until it reaches the proper size and shape.
3. Cover with burlap: Cover the entire structure with open burlap for a natural texture.
4. Add details: Use touches of white and black paint or fabric to make the dummy more realistic.

Alternative method if time is limited:
• Use a sack stuffed with hay as the body.
• Add a smaller sack at one end to represent the head and neck.
• Place the dummy on four thin sticks for support.
• Mark the side of the dummy with a large oval (representing the body) and a smaller oval over the heart area.

Note: Bows and arrows only are used to shoot this deer dummy.

To ensure safety during the deer hunting game:

1. No standing in front of firing line: It is strictly forbidden for any hunter to stand in front of the firing line.
2. Positioning: All hunters must be behind the line on which the shooter stands.
3. Dummy placement: The dummy can be left standing or lying, and may even be hidden behind a solid tree trunk.
4. Skill development: As players become more skilled in following trails, the use of corn can be reduced or eliminated, relying solely on iron hoof marks for realism.

Materials Needed:
• Wooden dowels, tent poles, walking/skiing poles, or any straight, durable, lightweight material for shafts
• Duct tape, masking tape, or scavenged feathers for fletching
• Knapped glass, ceramic (tiles, toilets), flattened and sharpened spoons, nails, coins, bullet casings, or scrap metal for arrowheads

Steps to Create Improvised Arrows:
1. Select the Shaft Material: Choose a straight, durable, lightweight material such as wooden dowels, tent poles, walking/skiing poles, or any similar object.
2. Prepare the Arrowhead:
- For glass or ceramic arrowheads: Knap (sharpen) the material to create a pointed tip.
- For metal-based arrowheads: Flatten and sharpen spoons, nails, coins, or bullet casings into a tapered point.
- Alternatively, use scrap metal materials to form an improvised arrowhead.
3. Attach the Arrowhead: Securely attach the arrowhead to one end of the shaft using strong adhesive (e.g., epoxy) or by wrapping with duct tape.
4. Add Fletching:
- Use duct tape, masking tape, or scavenged feathers to create fletching at the other end of the shaft.
- Wrap the tape around the shaft in a helical pattern or attach feathers using adhesive for better aerodynamics.
5. Test and Adjust: Ensure that the arrow is balanced and flies straight when tested with a bow or by blowing through it (for blowguns).

Notes:
• Use caution when handling sharp objects like glass, ceramic, or metal to avoid injury.
• For fletching, use materials that provide good aerodynamic properties for accuracy.

Materials Needed:
• Hollow pipes or tubes (e.g., copper pipe, PVC, steel pipe)
• Paints, pigments, camouflage tape (optional for camouflaging)

Steps to Fabricate a Blowgun:
1. Select the Tube Material: Choose a firm, hollow tube such as copper pipe, PVC, or steel pipe.
2. Cut the Tube to Desired Length: Use a saw or cutting tool to cut the tube to your preferred length (typically around 30-40 inches for effective use).
3. Smooth Edges: Ensure that the cut edges are smooth and free of sharp burrs to avoid injury when using the blowgun.
4. Camouflage (Optional):
- Paint or apply pigments to the tube to match your surroundings.
- Wrap the blowgun with camouflage tape, such as Real-tree duct tape, for better concealment in forested areas.
5. Test the Blowgun: Insert a dart into one end and blow through the other to ensure it functions properly.

Notes:
• Use caution when handling sharp tools during the cutting process.
• Ensure that the tube is not too narrow or too wide for the darts you intend to use.

Objective: Use your state’s trapping regulation brochure to determine legal restrictions for trapping nuisance animals.

Procedure:
1. Obtain a copy of your state’s current trapping regulation brochure.
2. Locate the section that discusses regulations related to trapping nuisance animals (e.g., animals damaging crops, livestock, or property).
3. Identify and record the following information:
- Under what conditions can nuisance animals be trapped or removed?
- Who may trap nuisance animals (landowners, licensed trappers, etc.)
- What special licenses or training are required for trapping nuisance animals
- What record keeping and reporting is required after trapping
- What type of fees may be charged for trapping nuisance animals
4. Note any recommendations provided in the brochure (e.g., handling problems during trapping season when pelts are prime).
5. Record this information in your notes or documentation for future reference.

Important: Always ask for permission before trapping on private land, and treat landowners with respect.

Objective: Use your state’s regulation brochure to determine requirements regarding permission to trap on private property.

Procedure:
1. Obtain a copy of your state’s trapping regulation brochure.
2. Locate the section that discusses trapping permissions or regulations related to private land.
3. Identify whether permission from the landowner is required for trapping on private property.
4. Note any specific conditions, exceptions, or additional requirements outlined in the brochure.
5. Record this information in your notes or documentation for future reference.

Important: A responsible trapper always obtains permission from the landowner before setting traps on private property.

To evaluate BMP (Best Management Practices) traps based on animal welfare, follow these steps:

1. Assess Injury Rates: Researchers tested live restraining traps for injuries to furbearers using two methods:
- One system evaluated specific injuries.
- The other grouped the injuries into categories from mild to severe.
2. Injury Thresholds: BMP approved traps must have a low rate of injuries to the furbearing animals being studied.
3. Veterinary Examination: Wildlife veterinarians examined thousands of trapped furbearers for different types of injuries.
4. Acceptable Injury Levels: Traps that resulted in no, little, or moderate injury to at least 70% of the animals trapped were considered acceptable.

Note: Traps that caused severe injuries or failed to meet these standards were not recommended.

To evaluate BMP traps based on practicality, follow these steps:

1. Assess Cost and Ease of Use: Each recommended live restraining trap was evaluated by experienced trappers and wildlife biologists for practicality.
2. Consider Practical Factors:
- Cost
- Ease of use
- Ease of transport
- Storage requirements
- Weight and size
- Reliability
- Versatility
- Expected lifespan of the trap
3. Field Testing: Experienced trappers evaluated traps for practicality during field testing to ensure they meet BMP standards.

Note: Practicality ensures that traps are user-friendly, cost-effective, and suitable for long-term use.

Identify kill-type and live-restraining traps:

• Kill-type traps are designed to kill furbearers. The most common type is the *body-gripping trap*, also known as a *Conibear™ type trap*.
• Live-restraining traps are designed to capture an animal alive and unharmed. Common types include:
- Foothold traps
- Cable devices
- Cage traps

These traps allow for the release of non-target animals.

Note: State regulations may place limits on trap sizes and locations where sets can be made. Always know and follow your state's regulations.

Live-restraining cage traps are used to capture animals without causing harm, making them ideal for trapping near buildings or in areas frequented by pets. Animals such as opossums, fisher, and weasels can be caught in these traps, although foxes and coyotes may avoid them.

Kill-type submarine or colony traps are a type of cage trap designed specifically for use in submersion sets, typically for muskrats and mink. These traps are called *colony traps* because they allow the capture of an entire family, or colony, of muskrats at one time.

Important Considerations:
• Always check your state's regulations before using a colony trap.
• Use caution when handling these traps to ensure safe and effective trapping.

To identify types of traps and prepare them for use, follow these steps:

1. Understand Legal Variations: Legal traps vary from state to state. Trapping regulations may change each year within a state.
2. Learn Trap Types: Students must demonstrate the ability to identify different types of traps used in trapping practices.
3. Prepare Traps for Use:
- Ensure that all components are intact and functioning properly.
- Check for wear or damage that could affect performance or safety.
4. Safely Operate Traps:
- Follow proper handling procedures to avoid injury.
- Set traps in appropriate locations based on target species and BMP guidelines.

Note: Proper identification, preparation, and safe operation of traps are essential for effective trapping practices.

Submersion Set Instructions:

To ensure death of trapped animals (muskrats, mink, river otters, nutria, and beaver), use a submersion set with slide-wire “drowners”:

1. Use aircraft cable (3/32” or 1/8”) or strong wire (11 or 12 gauge) with a one-way sliding lock.
2. Stake one end of the cable near shore where the trap is set.
3. Stake or anchor the other end in deep water:
- Minimum 24 inches for muskrats
- Minimum 42 inches for beaver
4. The one-way sliding lock allows the animal to swim toward deeper water but not back to shore.
5. The weight of the trap forces it to submerge.

Alternative Method for Muskrat Trapping:
• Stake the trap in deep water. The weight of a long-spring trap will submerge a muskrat.

Note: Animals do not drown; they asphyxiate due to inability to breathe underwater.

Advantages of Using Submersion Sets:

• Ensures death of trapped animals.
• Fewer escapes and less pelt damage.
• Less chance of trap or fur theft.
• Less disturbance at the set.

Disadvantages of Using Submersion Sets:

• Initial cost is higher.
• Takes more time to make the set.

Proper Anchoring of Traps on Land

Trappers must know how to anchor their traps properly to hold furbearers and prevent injury. Traps are normally anchored with stakes, but sometimes drags or grapples are used.

• Steel Stakes: Recommended for anchoring. They should be 18–24 inches in length under most conditions. In sandy soils, even longer stakes may be required.
• Cross-stake Method: A more secure method for fox and coyotes to prevent the animal from pulling it out. Use a double-stake swivel with the cross-staking method for better hold.
• Cable Stakes: Another option, but they take more time to dig out when removing your set.
• Drags and Grapples: Used in some terrain where animals can find cover nearby.

Swivels: Stake swivels and two or more chain swivels allow an animal to move freely without twisting the chain down to a point where it is easy for the animal to pull out of the trap.

Shock Springs: Used on trap chains to help hold animals and prevent injuries. Use high-quality shock springs of sufficient strength for the animals being trapped.

Trap anchoring systems are used to secure traps and prevent animals from pulling them free. Common methods include:

• Single stakes: Made of metal, typically 18–24 inches in length, suitable for most conditions. Longer stakes may be needed in sandy soils.
• Cross stakes: Used for stronger animals like foxes and coyotes to prevent them from pulling the trap free.
• Earth anchors: Attached to a cable, driven into the ground with a tool. They are very strong but must be dug out when removing the set.
• Drags: Allow an animal to move a short distance. Common types include heavy tree limbs.
• Grapples: Metal devices secured to traps with chains. They work like drags but are lighter and dig into the ground or vegetation, restricting movement.

Shock springs can be used in combination with chains, stakes, drags, and grapples. One or two shock springs help hold animals such as coyotes, which may lunge when trapped.

Procedure:

1. Identify the location of the channel where beaver activity is observed.
2. Select a sturdy pole or branch that can withstand water pressure and ice conditions.
3. Position the blocking pole above the channel set to guide beaver movement toward the trap.
4. Ensure the pole is securely placed so it does not shift or fall into the water.
5. Check the placement regularly to ensure it remains effective and safe for both trapper and animal.

Details:
• Use a straight, strong limb that can withstand ice pressure.
• The pole should be positioned at an angle that directs beaver toward the trap without obstructing their natural path.
• Avoid using poles that may decay quickly in water or ice conditions.
• Always ensure the set is centered in the channel to maximize effectiveness.

Purpose: Use natural materials to guide target animals toward traps while deterring non-target species.

Procedure:
1. Muskrat Set at Stream Edge: Place branches vertically above the trap on the stream bank so that muskrats can pass below them, but ducks and water birds are deterred by the obstruction.
2. Raccoon Rock Cubby: Create a small rock cubby or enclosure around the trap to keep dogs from approaching it.
3. Jump Pole for Deer: Install a jump pole immediately above a cable device so that deer are forced to jump over it. Ensure the pole is not too high, as deer may go underneath if it's too tall.
4. Foot Guides for Land Sets: Use small stones placed near the trap to guide animals to step on the trigger mechanism.

Notes:
• Jump poles should be designed to fall over after use to prevent entanglement.
• Ensure that all materials used are secure and do not pose a risk of injury to target or non-target animals.

Why New Trappers Should Start with Water Sets

New trappers should begin with water sets using kill-type traps or submersion trapping techniques for the following reasons:

1. Lower Startup Costs: Water sets require less expensive equipment compared to dry land sets.
2. Selective Targeting of Semi-Aquatic Species: Water sets are more selective, targeting species like muskrats and mink while avoiding most non-target animals.
3. Humane and Efficient Capture: Using body-gripping traps or properly constructed submersion sets ensures the furbearer’s death, eliminating the need to dispatch animals manually. These methods also reduce the likelihood of escape.

Additionally, water trapping avoids the use of foothold traps that may require dispatching live animals, making it a more humane and efficient method for beginners.

Why Use BMP-Specific Traps for Water Sets?

Trappers, biologists, veterinarians, and researchers have evaluated many traps. BMP (Best Management Practice) traps have been tested for the following key factors:

1. Animal Welfare: Ensures humane treatment of furbearers during trapping.
2. Selectivity for Furbearers: Increases the likelihood of catching target species while minimizing non-target captures.
3. Trapper Safety Concerns: Reduces risks to trappers during trap setting and retrieval.

Using BMP-compliant traps is essential for ethical trapping, conservation efforts, and ensuring compliance with wildlife management regulations.

Procedure:

1. Ensure you have experience with ice trapping or work with an experienced trapper.
2. Always trap with a friend or family member, especially when using large body-gripping traps on ice.
3. Locate a suitable area of open water where beaver activity is observed.
4. Drill holes in the ice to create access points for setting the trap.
5. Use a stabilizer or support system to secure the trap under the ice.
6. Place the trap so that it is fully submerged and positioned to catch beaver as they swim through the area.
7. Secure the trap with crosspoles above the ice to prevent loss of the trap.
8. Bait the trap with fresh poplar or other suitable bait for beaver.
9. Ensure the trigger is set on the bottom of the trap to reduce fur damage.
10. Monitor the trap regularly and check it frequently to ensure it remains functional and safe.

Details:
• This technique should not be attempted by beginners without proper guidance.
• Use a dry limb for the mounting pole to prevent beaver from eating it.
• Ensure that all components are securely fastened to avoid loss of equipment or injury to the animal.
• Always prioritize safety and follow local trapping regulations.

Procedure:

1. Construct the teepee set on land using sturdy materials such as poles and branches.
2. Securely attach a small platform to a large limb or pole.
3. Wire a double long-spring to the board, ensuring it is properly attached and secure.
4. Attach the trap chain near the bottom of the limb to prevent beaver from reaching the surface.
5. Run a wire from the chain to the crosspole above the ice to ensure stability.
6. Bait the trap with fresh poplar or other suitable bait for beaver.
7. Position the teepee set under the ice in an area where beaver activity is observed.
8. Ensure that the trigger of the trap is set on the bottom to reduce fur damage.
9. Monitor the trap regularly and check it frequently to ensure it remains functional and safe.

Details:
• The teepee set should be constructed with strong materials to withstand ice pressure.
• Use a dry limb for the mounting pole to prevent beaver from eating it.
• Ensure that all components are securely fastened to avoid loss of equipment or injury to the animal.
• Always prioritize safety and follow local trapping regulations.

Procedure:

1. Select a suitable wire trigger that can be twisted together in a straight line.
2. Twist the wires together so they form a straight line, ensuring even tension across all parts of the trap.
3. Center the trigger on the trap to ensure it is positioned correctly for optimal performance.
4. Securely fasten any additional supports or crosspoles above the ice or water to prevent loss of the trap.
5. Monitor the trap regularly and check it frequently to ensure it remains functional and safe.

Details:
• Twisting wire triggers together in a straight line helps reduce the chance of premature activation by beaver carrying limbs.
• Ensure that all components are securely fastened to avoid loss of equipment or injury to the animal.
• Always use fresh bait to increase the chances of success.
• Check local regulations regarding the use of body-gripping traps and ensure compliance.

Procedure:

1. Select a body-gripping trap that has bent corners.
2. Position the trap in the desired location, such as under water or ice.
3. Ensure the trigger is set on the bottom of the trap to reduce fur damage.
4. Secure the trap with crosspoles above the ice or water to prevent loss.
5. Bait the trap with fresh poplar or other suitable bait for beaver.
6. Monitor the trap regularly and check it frequently to ensure it remains functional and safe.

Details:
• Bent corners on body-gripping traps help reduce fur damage by allowing the animal to be caught more gently.
• Ensure that the trap is properly secured in its location to prevent loss or theft.
• Always use fresh bait to increase the chances of success.
• Check local regulations regarding the use of body-gripping traps and ensure compliance.