Knots & Rope

Purpose: Used for attaching a rope to a hook.

Procedure:
1. Make two bights in the rope and roll them around the hook.
2. Ensure that the bights are rolled two or three times for maximum security.
3. Pull tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• This is a quick and effective method of attaching a rope to a hook.

Purpose: Used to hold two shackles or rings together.

Procedure:
1. Tie a carrick bend between the two objects (shackles or rings).
2. Ensure that the knot is tight and secure.
3. This is useful for fastening items together in bushcraft or sailing applications.

Details:
• The gunner's knot is essentially a carrick bend used to hold two shackles or rings securely.

Purpose: Used for fastening a stone (for a kellick in lieu of an anchor) to rocky sea bottoms.

Procedure:
1. Tie a timber hitch around the object (stone or anchor).
2. Finish off with a half hitch to secure it further.
3. This is useful where an anchor might foul and needs to be held securely.

Details:
• The kellick hitch is particularly useful in maritime applications.

Purpose: A quick and easy method of securing a rope to a spar or beam.

Procedure:
1. Make a loop with the rope and pass it around the spar or beam.
2. Pass the working end through the loop.
3. Pull tight to secure the rope.
4. For added security, tie an overhand knot as shown in Fig. 2.

Details:
• This is a simple and effective method for securing ropes quickly.

Purpose: To fasten a rope to a spar securely.

Procedure:
1. Pass the working end of the rope around the spar.
2. Make a loop and pass the working end through it.
3. Pull tight to form the rolling hitch.
4. Ensure that the knot is pulled taut for maximum security.

Details:
• This is a very secure fastening method.
• It is useful in bushcraft, sailing, or any situation where you need to tie a rope to a spar.

Purpose: Used to secure a rope to a ring or hook.

Procedure:
1. Pass the working end of the rope around the ring or hook.
2. Make a loop and pass the working end through it.
3. Pull tight to form the sailor's backhand knot.
4. This is very similar to the rolling hitch and can be used in various applications.

Details:
• The alternative variation of this knot is also described in the text.

Purpose: A simple method of securing a rope to another object.

Procedure:
1. Make two half hitches around the standing end of the rope.
2. Pull tight to secure the knot.
3. This is a very basic and reliable knot for general use.

Details:
• The sailor's knot is simple but effective for securing ropes in various situations.

Procedure:

1. Find the middle of a utility rope and insert it into a carabiner.
2. Place the carabiner and utility rope next to a long climbing rope.
3. With the two ropes parallel from the carabiner, make two or more wraps around the climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabiner.

Note: The rope can be tied into an etrier (stirrup) and used as a Prusik-friction principle ascender.

Checkpoints:
• The bight of the climbing rope is at the top of the carabiner.
• The two ropes run parallel without twisting or crossing.
• Two or more wraps are made around the long climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabiner.

Procedure:

1. Double the short rope, forming a bight, with the working ends even.
2. Lay it over the long rope so that the closed end of the bight is 12 inches below the long rope and the remaining part of the rope (working ends) is closest to the climber; spread the working ends apart.
3. Reach down through the 12-inch bight, pull up both of the working ends, and lay them over the long rope.
4. Repeat this process making sure that the working ends pass in the middle of the first two wraps. Now there are four wraps and a locking bar working across them on the long rope.
5. Dress the wraps and locking bar down to ensure they are tight and not twisted.
6. Tie an overhand knot with both ropes to prevent the knot from slipping during periods of variable tension.

Checkpoints:
• Four wraps with a locking bar.
• The locking bar faces the climber.
• The knot is tight and dressed down with no ropes twisted or crossed.
• Other than a finger Prusik, the knot should contain an overhand or bowline to prevent slipping.

Procedure:

1. Using an arm’s length of rope, place it over the long rope.
2. Form a complete round turn in the rope.
3. Cross over the standing part of the short rope with the working end of the short rope.
4. Lay the working end under the long rope.
5. Form a complete round turn in the rope, working back toward the middle of the knot.
6. There are four wraps and a locking bar running across them on the long rope. Dress the wraps and locking bar down to ensure they are tight, parallel, and not twisted.
7. Finish the knot with a bowline to ensure that the Prusik knot will not slip out during periods of varying tension.

Checkpoints:
• Four wraps with a locking bar.
• The locking bar faces the climber.
• The knot is tight and dressed down with no ropes twisted or crossed.
• Other than a finger Prusik, the knot should contain an overhand or bowline to prevent slipping.

Purpose: To secure a rope to squared timber or round logs.

Procedure:
1. Make a loop with the rope and pass it around the object (timber or log).
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the loop.
3. Pull tight so that the standing end pulls straight through the loop, not backwards.
4. Ensure that the knot is secure and will hold under strain.

Details:
• A good starting knot for all lashings.
• If tied incorrectly (with the standing end pulled backward), the rope may cut upon itself.

Purpose: Used to improvise a handle for a pitcher or other object.

Procedure:
1. Make a clove hitch with two loops that are not exactly overlaying each other.
2. Pull the inner half of each loop under and through the outer side of the opposite loop, as indicated by arrows in the text.
3. Tighten the center knot around the lip of the pitcher or object to form handles from the loops.

Details:
• This is a useful improvisation technique for creating handles on objects like pitchers.

Purpose: A very secure method of securing a rope to a ring or hook.

Procedure:
1. Make a bight in the rope and pass it through the ring or hook.
2. Pass both ends of the rope through the bight, then down through their own bight.
3. Pull tight to form the triple lark's head.
4. This knot is absolutely secure and can be used for heavy loads.

Details:
• The triple lark's head provides even more security than the double lark's head.

Purpose: Useful for emergency situations due to its ease of release.

Procedure:
1. Tie the slippery hitch as described in the text.
2. The knot holds securely as long as there is strain on the standing end.
3. It can be released quickly when needed, making it ideal for situations where rapid untying may be necessary.

Details:
• This knot is particularly useful in survival scenarios where you need to secure something temporarily but must release it quickly if needed.

Procedure:

1. When a rope is too long for its purpose, use the chain knot to shorten it.
2. Form a loop by taking a turn around the standing end of the rope.
3. Pass the free end through the loop and continue forming additional loops in sequence.
4. Before applying any strain on the rope, insert a marlinspike or toggle through the last link to secure the knot.

Details:
• This knot is useful for shortening ropes without cutting them.
• It can be adjusted by pulling on either end of the rope to tighten or loosen it as needed.
• Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Procedure:

1. Begin the crowning process by laying out the rope as shown in the diagram.
2. Pass each strand through the bight of the preceding strand to form a series of interlocking loops.
3. Once all strands are passed through, pull the knot taut and secure it.
4. To permanently secure the end of the rope against ravelling or fraying, back splice the strands.
5. Crowning can also be used with other fancy knots such as the wall knot or Mathew Walker.

Details:
• This knot is useful for securing the ends of ropes and preventing them from unravelling.
• It provides additional strength when combined with other knots like the wall knot or stopper knot.
• Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Procedure:

1. Start the double-double crowning knot in the same way as the manrope knot.
2. Lay out the strands for a second crown above the first one, similar to the manrope knot.
3. Use a marlinspike to open the bends of the lower crown and pass the strands through these bends.
4. Pull the strands taut to secure the double-double crowning knot.

Details:
• This is an advanced variation of the crowning knot that provides extra security for the end of the rope.
• It can be used in conjunction with other knots like the wall knot or stopper knot.
• Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Procedure:

1. Create a slip knot in the rope as indicated.
2. Place the drum, can, or barrel into the slip knot.
3. Secure the free end of the rope with a stopper hitch to the standing end of the rope.
4. Ensure that the stopper hitch is tight and secure to prevent the load from slipping out.

Details:
• This method allows for easy attachment and detachment of heavy objects like drums or barrels.
• The slip knot makes it simple to adjust the size of the sling as needed.
• Always inspect the knots before applying weight to ensure they are properly tied.

To form a Chequer Knot:
1. Unlay the strands to a reasonable length (you will need more stuff for this knot than for those described above) and in their centre at the fork place a core of some material (a ball of spunyarn will do).
2. Make a Crown Knot left-handed over the core with the even numbered strands.
3. Make a Crown Knot right-handed with the odd-numbered strands in such a way that they interlace with the even strands (Fig. 48a).
4. With all strands make a Wall Knot right-handed (Fig. 48b).
5. Follow round the Crown Knots and the Wall.
6. Make a Wall Knot round the bottom of the knot (Fig. 48c).
7. Make a Crown Knot similarly (Fig. 48d).
8. Follow round these last two knots. This forms a Turk's Head.
9. Finish by tucking each strand away under a strand of the rope just above the whipping, and cut off.

To fashion the Footrope Knot:
1. Pass two pieces of line through the rope at the same point but tucking each under a different strand.
2. With the four ends work a Diamond Knot (Fig. 49).
3. Follow round once or twice and cut off. (More than two pieces of line can be used if desired.)

To make a Shroud Knot:
1. Unlay both ropes and crutch the strands, i.e., so that each strand passes between two strands of the other rope but in the opposite direction to them.
2. With the strands of rope 'A' form a Wall Knot round rope 'B' to the left on a right-handed rope and vice versa on a left-handed.
3. Similarly form a Wall with the strands of 'B' on 'A'.
4. Tighten until the knots jam against each other (Fig. 43d).
5. To make a neat finish, marl and serve as in figure 436.

To make a Single Matthew Walker:
1. Start like a Wall but pass strand I under both II and III.
2. Pass II under III and I and come up through the bight of I.
3. Pass III round the end of I, through its bight and through the bight of II (Fig. 45). This knot differs from the Wall in that each strand passes through the bights of both the others.

To make a Turk's Head on the noose of a knife or whistle lanyard:
1. Unlay the end of the lanyard and with the strands form a Wall Knot round the standing part of the lanyard itself.
2. Form a Crown Knot also round the lanyard and follow round at least twice. This knot will slide up and down the standing part.

Procedure:

1. Once the Mathew Walker knot is fully tied and rolled tight, inspect it to ensure that all strands are evenly tensioned.
2. The knot should be difficult to undo, making it ideal for securing critical loads or equipment.
3. If needed, the knot can be made some distance from the end of the rope, allowing for additional flexibility in use.
4. Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Details:
• The Mathew Walker is reputed to be one of the most difficult knots to undo.
• It provides strong security and is ideal for situations where a secure, long-lasting knot is required.
• Always ensure that the knot is properly tied and inspected before use.

Procedure:

1. To secure a sheepshank knot against slipping, insert a toggle into the end bights.
2. Ensure that the toggle is firmly seated within the loops to prevent them from sliding apart.
3. This added security makes the knot more reliable for use under tension or in critical situations.

Details:
• The toggle prevents the sheepshank from slipping, making it safer and more durable.
• Use a sturdy toggle made of rope or metal for best results.
• This variation is ideal when working with heavy loads or in survival scenarios.

Procedure:

1. Take the ends of the wall knot and bring them round again to form a new loop in the centre.
2. Pull each end taut separately to secure the stopper knot.
3. Ensure that the knot is tight and evenly formed for maximum strength.

Details:
• This knot is used to secure other knots like the wall knot or crowning knot.
• It adds an extra layer of security when tying complex knots.
• Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Use: The baker bowline is used for the same purpose as the butterfly knot and for lashing cargo.

Steps:
1. Pass the working end of the rope over the standing part, forming a loop.
2. Bring the working end up through the loop from below.
3. Pass the working end around the standing part again before pulling tight.
4. Secure one end with two half hitches.
5. Pass the rope over the cargo and tie a baker bowline.
6. Secure the lashing with a slippery half hitch.

Notes:
• To release the rope, simply pull on the running end.
• Advantages of the baker bowline include:
- Tied easily.
- Adjusted without losing control.
- Released quickly.

Use: The butterfly knot is used to pull taut a high line, handline, tread rope for foot bridges, or similar installations.

Steps:
1. Create a loop in the middle of the rope.
2. Cross the working end over the standing part and pass it through the loop from below.
3. Pull tight to form two loops (the butterfly).
4. Pass the working end through both loops from above.
5. Pull tight again to secure the knot.

Notes:
• The butterfly knot will not jam if a stick is placed between the two upper loops.
• This knot provides the capability to tighten a fixed rope when mechanical means are not available.
• An alternative for this purpose is the harness hitch.

Use: A figure eight with an extra turn is used to tighten a rope.

Steps:
1. Make a loop in the rope, ensuring it is large enough to pass the working end through.
2. Pass the working end through the loop from below.
3. Pull tight to form the basic figure-eight shape.
4. Add an extra turn by looping the working end around the standing part again before pulling tight.

Notes:
• This knot is especially suitable for tightening ropes in various applications.

Use: The half hitch is used to tie a rope to a timber or to a larger rope.

Steps:
1. Wrap the working end of the rope around the object (timber or larger rope).
2. Pass the working end over the standing part and through the loop formed by the wrap.
3. Pull tight to secure the half hitch.

Notes:
• The half hitch will hold against a steady pull on the standing part of the rope; however, it is not a secure hitch.
• It can be used to secure the free end of a rope and as an aid to and the foundation of many knots.
• It is the start of a timber hitch and a part of the fisherman’s knot.
• It also makes the rolling hitch more secure.

Procedure:

1. Lay the rope as shown in the diagram.
2. Plait or braid the strands together to form a twist knot.
3. Insert a marlinspike or toggle between the ropes in the centre to secure the plait and prevent it from slipping.
4. Ensure that the knot is tight and evenly braided for maximum strength.

Details:
• This is another easy method of shortening a rope.
• The use of a marlinspike or toggle adds extra security to the knot.
• Always inspect the knot before applying any significant strain.

Finishing the Ends of a Rope

The first step is to finish the ends of the rope to prevent them from unraveling. Only one end needs to be finished if alternative 2 is used to finish the nose piece of the halter.

### Methods:
1. Overhand Knot or Figure-Eight Knot:
- The quickest, but not the best, way to finish a rope is to put an overhand knot in the end of the rope.
- The figure-eight knot as illustrated is actually a more secure knot.
- Hold the rope in one hand to prevent it from unraveling further.
- Take the uppermost strand and bend it between the other two, forming a bight.
- Wrap the next strand down around the bight.
- Insert the last strand into the bight.
- Carefully pull on each of the strands to tighten the crown knot. It should be a very symmetrical knot.

2. Dipping in Oil-Based Paint or Varnish:
- Dipping 1-2” of the rope into an oil-based paint or varnish works well except for polypropylene rope.
- It should dry for 24 hours before it is used.

3. Heating to Fuse Fibers:
- The ends of nylon, dacron and polypropylene rope can be heated to fuse the fibers together.
- If using a flame, hold the end of the rope from the flame so that the rope heats thoroughly instead of only the outer fibers.
- The fibers should melt and stick together.
- Wear an old pair of heavy leather gloves so that you can shape the hot end in case a large knob or sharp edge results.

4. Metal Wraps, Hog Rings, or Wire Staples:
- Metal wraps, hog rings, or heavy wire or wire staples bent around the rope will prevent it from unraveling if done properly.
- Be certain that there are no sharp edges when you are finished.

5. Crowning with a Crown Knot and Back Splicing:
- You can “crown” the rope by using a crown knot and back splicing.
- Start by unraveling about four inches of the rope.
- Hold the knot in one hand and twist the rope to loosen the strands.
- Start with any strand and bend it over the strand next to it and under the next strand, which should be itself.
- Do the same with the other two strands. Bending them over one strand down the rope and under themselves.
- Continue lacing the strands over one and under one down the rope so that each strand is tucked under 3 times.
- Trim the frayed ends.

Making a Rope Halter

Rope halters are needed occasionally on all dairy farms. They are inexpensive to buy, but it is worthwhile to know how they are made because it may be inconvenient to run to the farm supply store when one is needed.

### Materials:
• A three-strand rope (12' to 15' in length)
• Rope size: 3/8-inch for calves; 7/16 or 1/2 inch for yearlings or cows

### Steps:
1. Start with a three-strand rope of appropriate length and diameter.
2. Finish the ends of the rope to prevent unraveling (see procedure on finishing rope ends).
3. Create the loop for the head by forming a bight in the middle of the rope and securing it with a knot or other method.
4. Continue shaping the halter as needed, ensuring that it fits comfortably around the animal’s head.

Notes:
• If you know how to make a halter, it will be easier to repair or adjust one if needed.

Procedure for Tying a One-Handed Square Knot:

This technique is useful when only one hand is available or when precision and control are needed in confined spaces. The steps are similar to the two-hand technique but adapted for single-handed use.

1. Hold both strands with your dominant hand, positioning them so that you can manipulate each strand independently.
2. Use your thumb and fingers to form loops and pass one strand through the other as described in the two-hand technique, but using only one hand for all manipulations.
3. Ensure that the tension is applied horizontally at the final throw to maintain knot security.

Notes:
• This technique requires practice and dexterity to master.
• It may be particularly useful in surgical settings or when working with limited mobility.
• The same materials used for the two-hand square knot can also be tied using this one-handed method.

Double Sheet Bend Knot

The double sheet bend knot is used to tie two ropes of unequal size or stiffness together. If the ropes are similar, the simpler square knot should be used.

### Steps:
1. Form a bight in the larger or stiffer of the two ropes.
2. Run the lighter rope into the bight.
3. Wrap it around the heavier rope.
4. String it between itself and the strands of the bight as illustrated.

Notes:
• This knot is ideal for joining ropes with different diameters or stiffness.
• It is not suitable for use in high-stress situations where a more secure knot is required.

Procedure for Deep Tie (Steps 1-3):

1. Loop the strand around a hook in a plastic cup on the Practice Board, using the index finger of the right hand, which holds the purple strand in the palm of the hand.

2. The white strand is held in the left hand. Bring the purple strand (held in the right hand) between the left thumb and index finger.

3. Turn the left hand inward by pronation, and swing the thumb under the white strand to form the first loop.

4. Place the index finger of the left hand on the white strand and advance the loop into the cavity.

5. Apply horizontal tension: push down on the white strand with the left index finger while maintaining counter-tension with the index finger of the right hand on the purple strand.

Procedure for Finishing the Nose Piece (Alternative 1):

1. Measure and Prepare: Measure out 12” from the end of the rope for the nose piece for a calf-sized halter. Twist the rope to open up the strands.

2. Insert the Short Rope: Insert the short rope under one strand, leaving a loop twice the diameter of the rope.

3. Grasp and Twist: Grasp the nose piece near the end with one hand and 2-3 inches further down the rope with the other. Twist the rope between your hands to open the strands, then push your hands together. The strands should buckle and fold over, forming three loops.

4. Secure with a Stick: Line up the loops and put a stick the diameter of the rope through them to keep them in place.

5. Secure the Loop: Open up the strands of the nose piece near the loop. Push the long end of the rope under the two opened strands and pull it through until it is tight.

6. Thread Through Loops: Put the long end of the rope through the loops one at a time, starting with the loop furthest from the short end. Remove the stick as you go.

7. Complete the Halter: After that is complete, run the long end of the rope through the eye loop to complete your halter.

Procedure:

1. Loop the rope around the object you want to secure.
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the loop formed in step 1.
3. Pull the working end tight to create tension on the rope.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the desired amount of tension is achieved.
5. Secure the final loop by tying a half hitch or another knot if necessary.

Details:
• The taut line hitch is used for securing a rope under tension, such as when setting up a tent or securing a load.
• It allows for easy adjustment and can be tightened or loosened as needed.
• Ensure that the knot is properly secured to prevent slippage.

Procedure for Proper Halter Placement on Animals:

1. Position the Lead Rope: When putting the halter on an animal, the lead rope should be on the left hand side of the animal’s head (Figure 1).

2. Adjust the Loop: The part of the halter that tightens through the loop should be under the animal’s chin.

3. Determine Nose Piece Length: The length of the nose piece will determine how high it rides on an animal’s face. A short nose piece will cause the halter to ride lower on the nose and will give you more control when leading the animal.

4. Size Guidelines: Finished nose pieces should be about 7” long for calves and up to 14” long for cows.

Binding Knot:

Used for fastening broken sticks or rods after wrapping them with several turns of cord. The cord should never overlap during the serving process.

Steps:
1. Make a loop in the cord that is slightly longer than the length you plan to wrap around the object (refer to figure 3a).
2. Wrap the cord tightly around the object, ensuring the wraps do not overlap.
3. Once the wrapping is complete, pass the free end of the cord through the initial loop you made (figure 3b).
4. Pull the free end tight to draw the other end into the serving and secure it.

Important: This knot ensures that the wrapped object remains firmly fastened.

Bowline:

Used for slinging heavy bodies; it cannot slip and will not jam under the heaviest strain.

Steps:
1. Hold the fixed or "standing" part of the rope in your left hand (this should be done when tying all knots).
2. Lay the free end over the standing part to form a loop around the object you want to secure.
3. Twist your wrist to create a loop in the standing part that encloses the free end (refer to figure 7a).
4. Carry the free end behind the standing part and through the loop, parallel with itself (figure 7b).
5. Tighten both ends evenly to complete the knot.

Important: This knot is essential for securing heavy objects safely and should be practiced until it can be tied quickly.

Clove Hitch is one of the most widely used knots.

### Steps:
1. Loop the rope around the object (timber, pipe, or post) to form the first loop.
2. Cross the running end over the standing part and loop it back through the first loop to create a second loop.
3. Pull both loops tight to secure the knot.

### Additional Notes:
• You can use it to fasten a rope to an object or to make other knots.
• It puts very little strain on the fibers when the rope is put around an object in one continuous direction.
• If there is not constant tension on the rope, another loop (round of the rope around the object and under the center of the clove hitch) will permit a tightening and slackening motion of the rope.

Tie a Deep Tie

1. Hold the two ends of the suture material in each hand, with the working ends crossing over each other to form an X.
2. With your right hand, take the right end and pass it over the left end, then under it, forming a loop.
3. Bring the right end up through the loop you just created, pulling it tight to form the first half of the knot.
4. Repeat the process with the left end: cross it over the right end, pass it under, and bring it up through the loop formed by the right end.
5. Pull both ends tightly to complete the deep tie.

Notes:
• This technique is ideal for situations where a secure, low-profile knot is needed.
• Ensure that the knot is tied securely to avoid slippage or failure under tension.

Tie a Granny Knot

1. Hold the two ends of the suture material in each hand, with the working ends crossing over each other to form an X.
2. With your right hand, take the right end and pass it over the left end, then under it, forming a loop.
3. Bring the right end up through the loop you just created, pulling it tight to form the first half of the knot.
4. Repeat the process with the left end: cross it over the right end, pass it under, and bring it up through the loop formed by the right end.
5. Pull both ends tightly to complete the granny knot.

Notes:
• This technique is ideal for situations where a secure, low-profile knot is needed.
• Ensure that the knot is tied securely to avoid slippage or failure under tension.

Mooring Hitch, also called rolling or magnus hitch, is used to fasten a rope around a mooring post or to attach a rope at a right angle to a post.

### Steps:
1. Wrap the running end of the rope around the object (mooring post) in a spiral fashion.
2. Loop the free end of the rope over the standing part and pull it through the loop to form a knot.
3. Tighten by pulling on the standing part of the rope.

### Additional Notes:
• This hitch grips tightly and is easily removed.

Reefing Knot:

Also called the flat knot, this is ideal for tying two ends of a string together. It is neat, flat, does not slip easily, and can be untied quickly.

Steps:
1. Hold both ends of the cord in each hand.
2. Cross one end over the other to form an X.
3. Bring the right end under the left end and pull it through to create a loop.
4. Repeat the process with the left end, bringing it under the right end and pulling it through the loop.
5. Tighten both ends evenly to secure the knot.

Important: Ensure that the two parts of each string are on the same side; otherwise, you will form a "granny" knot, which is less secure.

Scaffold Hitch is used to support the end of a scaffold plank with a single rope.

### Steps:
1. Pass the running end of the rope around the object (scaffold plank) in a spiral fashion.
2. Loop the free end of the rope over the standing part and pull it through the loop to form a knot.
3. Tighten by pulling on the standing part of the rope.

### Additional Notes:
• It prevents the plank from tilting.

Single Half-hitch:

This is one of the quickest knots to tie and untie. It is very secure when used correctly.

Steps:
1. Hold the fixed or "standing" part of the rope in your left hand.
2. Make a loop with the free end of the rope.
3. Pass this loop over the standing part and pull it through to form a half-hitch.
4. Tighten both ends evenly to secure the knot.

Uses:
• Fastening ends of ropes in rings or other objects that need to be quickly released.
• Used for slinging light bodies with small diameters (e.g., bottles).
• Can also be used as a "beer-knot" when securing corks in bottles, where the two ends are tied afterward.

Important: When using this knot for security, ensure that the strain comes on the standing part of the rope.

Purpose: To tie a square knot using one hand, specifically the left hand.

Materials Required:
• Two strands of rope or suture material (e.g., white and purple)

Procedure:
1. Hold the white strand between your thumb and index finger of your left hand, with a loop over your extended index finger.
2. Hold the purple strand between your thumb and index finger of your right hand.
3. Bring the purple strand over the white strand on your left index finger by moving your right hand away from the operator.
4. With the purple strand supported in your right hand, use the distal phalanx (tip) of your left index finger to pass under the white strand and place it over the tip of your left index finger.
5. Pull the white strand through the loop in preparation for applying tension.
6. Complete the first half hitch by advancing tension in the horizontal plane, drawing your left hand toward and your right hand away from the operator.

Notes:
• This technique is commonly used when tying single suture strands.
• The sequence may be reversed if the surgeon is holding a reel of suture material in the right hand and placing ligatures.
• It is crucial to reverse the direction your hands travel from one throw to the next to ensure that the knot lands flat and square. Failure to do so can result in half hitches, which are not secure.

Warnings:
• This technique should only be used when necessary (e.g., if one hand is unavailable or restricted). The two-hand technique is preferred for greater control and security.

Purpose: To tie a surgeon's or friction knot using one hand, specifically the left hand.

Materials Required:
• Two strands of rope or suture material (e.g., white and purple)

Procedure:
1. Place the white strand over your extended index finger of your left hand, holding it in the palm of your left hand.
2. Hold the purple strand between your thumb and index finger of your right hand.
3. Cross the purple strand over the white strand by moving your right hand away from the operator at an angle to the left.
4. Use your thumb and index finger of your left hand to pinch and form a loop in the white strand over your index finger.
5. Turn your left hand inward by pronation, and slide the loop of the white strand onto your left thumb.
6. Grasp the purple strand between your thumb and index finger of your left hand and release your right hand.
7. Rotate your left hand by supination, extending your left index finger to pass the purple strand through the loop.
8. Regrasp the purple strand with your right hand.
9. Slide the loop onto the thumb of your left hand by pronating the pinched thumb and index finger of your left hand beneath the loop.
10. Rotate your left hand by supination, extending your left index finger to again pass the purple strand through, forming a double loop.
11. Draw the purple strand left with your right hand and regrasp it between your thumb and index finger of your left hand.
12. Apply horizontal tension with your left hand toward and your right hand away from the operator. This double loop must be placed in precise position for the final knot.

Notes:
• The surgeon’s or friction knot is recommended for tying specific types of suture materials, including PANACRYL, VICRYL, ETHIBOND, ETHILON, MERSILENE, NUROLON, PRONOVA, and PROLENE.
• This technique can be performed using a one-hand method similar to the square knot one-hand technique.

Warnings:
• Ensure that the double loop is placed in the correct position for the final knot. Improper placement may result in an insecure or improperly tied knot.

Tying the Bowline-on-a-Bight (Two-Loop Bowline) Knot:

1. Form a bight in the rope about twice as long as the finished loops will be.
2. Tie an overhand knot on a bight.
3. Hold the overhand knot in the left hand so that the bight is running down and outward.
4. Grasp the bight with the right hand; fold it back over the overhand knot so that the overhand knot goes through the bight.
5. From the end (apex) of the bight, follow the bight back to where it forms the cross in the overhand knot. Grasp the two ropes that run down and outward and pull up, forming two loops.
6. Pull the two ropes out of the overhand knot and dress the knot down.
7. A final dress is required: grasp the ends of the two fixed loops and pull, spreading them apart to ensure the loops do not slip.

Checkpoints:
• There are two fixed loops that will not slip.
• There are no twists in the knot.
• A double loop is held in place by a bight.

Tying the Directional Figure-Eight Knot:

1. Face the far side anchor so that when the knot is tied, it lays inward.
2. Lay the rope from the far side anchor over the left palm. Make one wrap around the palm.
3. With the wrap thus formed, tie a figure-eight knot around the standing part that leads to the far side anchor.
4. When dressing the knot down, the tail and the bight must be together.

Checkpoints:
• The loop should be large enough to accept a carabiner but no larger than a helmet-size loop.
• The tail and bight must be together.
• The figure eight is tied tightly.
• The bight in the knot faces back toward the near side.

Tying the Two-Loop Figure-Eight Knot:

1. Using a doubled rope, form an 18-inch bight in the left hand with the running end facing to the left.
2. Grasp the bight with the right hand and make a 360-degree turn around the standing end in a counterclockwise direction.
3. With the working end, form another bight and place that bight through the loop just formed in the left hand.
4. Hold the bight with the left hand, and place the original bight (moving toward the left hand) over the knot.
5. Dress the knot down.

Checkpoints:
• There is a double figure-eight knot with two loops that share a common locking bar.
• The two loops must be adjustable by means of a common locking bar.
• The common locking bar is on the bottom of the double figure-eight knot.

Tying the Wireman’s Knot:

1. When tying this knot, face the anchor that the tie-off system will be tied to.
2. Take up the slack from the anchor, and wrap two turns around the left hand (palm up) from left to right.
3. A loop of 30 centimeters is taken up in the second round turn to create the fixed loop of the knot.
4. Name the wraps from the palm to the fingertips: heel, palm, and fingertip.
5. Secure the palm wrap with the right thumb and forefinger, and place it over the heel wrap.
6. Secure the heel wrap and place it over the fingertip wrap.
7. Secure the fingertip wrap and place it over the palm wrap.
8. Secure the palm wrap and pull up to form a fixed loop.
9. Dress the knot down by pulling on the fixed loop and the two working ends.
10. Pull the working ends apart to finish the knot.

Checkpoints:
• The completed knot should have four separate bights locking down on themselves with the fixed loop exiting from the top of the knot and laying toward the near side anchor point.
• Both ends should exit opposite each other without any bends.

Procedure for Tying a Two-Hand Square Knot:

1. Place the white strand over the extended index finger of your left hand, acting as a bridge, and hold it in the palm of your left hand.
2. Hold the purple strand in your right hand.
3. Bring the purple strand between your left thumb and index finger.
4. Turn your left hand inward by pronation, and swing your thumb under the white strand to form the first loop.
5. Cross the purple strand over the white strand and hold it between your left thumb and index finger.
6. Release the purple strand with your left hand and grasp it again with your right hand.
7. Apply horizontal tension: pull the white strand toward you with your left hand and the purple strand away from you with your right hand. This completes the first half hitch.
8. Release your left index finger from the white strand, then supinate your left hand to loop the white strand over your left thumb. Angle the purple strand slightly to the left.
9. Bring the purple strand toward you with your right hand and place it between your left thumb and index finger. The purple strand crosses over the white strand.
10. Further supinate your left hand so that the white strand slides onto your left index finger, forming a loop as the purple strand is grasped between your left index finger and thumb.
11. Pronate your left hand inward, allowing your thumb to carry the purple strand through the loop of the white strand. Grasp the purple strand between your right thumb and index finger.
12. Apply horizontal tension: pull the white strand away from you with your left hand and the purple strand toward you with your right hand. This completes the second half hitch.
13. Ensure that the final tension on the final throw is as nearly horizontal as possible for optimal knot security.

Materials:
The two-hand square knot may be used to tie surgical gut, virgin silk, surgical cotton, and surgical stainless steel. It can also be used with braided synthetic absorbable suture (e.g., PANACRYL*), MONOCRYL* (poliglecaprone 25) suture, Coated VICRYL* (polyglactin 910) suture, Coated VICRYL _RAPIDE_ * (polyglactin 910) suture, PDS* II (polydioxanone) suture, ETHILON* nylon suture, ETHIBOND* _EXCEL_ polyester suture, PERMAHAND* silk suture, PRONOVA* poly (hexafluoropropylene/VDF) suture, and PROLENE* polypropylene suture.

Notes:
• Standard technique of flat and square ties with additional throws may be used depending on the surgical circumstance and operator experience.
• Ensure that all steps are performed carefully to avoid slippage or failure of the knot.

Procedure for Tying a Surgeon's Knot (Steps 9-11):

1. With the thumb swung under the white strand, grasp the purple strand between the thumb and index finger of the left hand and hold it over the white strand with the right hand.

2. Release the purple strand from the left hand, then supinate the left hand to regrasp the purple strand with the index finger beneath the loop of the white strand.

3. Rotate the purple strand beneath the white strand by supinating the pinched thumb and index finger of the left hand, drawing the purple strand through the loop. The right hand regrasps the purple strand to complete the second throw square.

4. Continue applying horizontal tension: the left hand pulls away from the operator, while the right hand pulls toward the operator.

5. Ensure that the final tension on the final throw is as nearly horizontal as possible.

Tying the Square or Reef Knot

The square or reef knot is used to tie two ropes together and is frequently used in first-aid bandaging.

Steps:

1. Take the end of one rope and pass it over the standing part of the second rope.
2. Bring the end under and through the loop formed by this action.
3. Repeat the process with the other rope, passing its end over the standing part of the first rope and bringing it under and through the loop.
4. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

This knot is easy to tie and untie, and it does not slip or jam.

A Round Turn is used to hold a rope securely around an object, such as a wooden post. This technique is commonly used in mountaineering and can be applied to ice axes for belaying.

Steps:
1. Wrap the rope around the object (e.g., a post or ice axe) in a single loop.
2. Ensure the end of the rope is held firmly by hand to increase friction and resistance against pulling.
3. This method provides significant holding power, especially when used with multiple turns or figure-of-eight loops for added security.

Notes:
• The round turn works best with non-slippery ropes.
• It is often described as 'bringing someone up with a round turn' in reference to its ability to stop movement abruptly.

Purpose: To fix hand-spikes or capstanbars to the ropes attached to heavy carriages.

Steps:
1. Wrap the rope around the object to be moved, ensuring it is tight against the surface.
2. Pass the free end of the rope through the loop formed by the standing part of the rope.
3. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

Purpose: To pass over the shoulder and under the opposite arm of men drawing a carriage.

Steps:
1. Wrap the rope around the object to be moved, ensuring it is tight against the surface.
2. Pass the free end of the rope through the loop formed by the standing part of the rope.
3. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

Purpose: To prevent the end of a rope from opening out.

Steps:
1. Hold the free end of the rope in one hand.
2. Cross the end over the standing part of the rope to form a loop.
3. Pass the end through the loop and pull tight to secure the knot.

Purpose: To tighten ropes.

Steps:
1. Wrap the rope around the object to be tightened, ensuring it is tight against the surface.
2. Pass the free end of the rope through the loop formed by the standing part of the rope.
3. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

Over-the-Object Clove Hitch is a knot used to secure a rope around an object. It is particularly useful in climbing and rescue operations.

Steps:
1. Pass the rope over the object.
2. Make a loop with the working end of the rope, ensuring it goes around the object.
3. Bring the working end back down through the loop to form the first half of the hitch.
4. Repeat the process on the other side of the object to complete the hitch.
5. Pull both ends tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• This knot is strong and can be easily adjusted or untied after being under load.
• It is ideal for securing ropes around objects in rescue scenarios.

Overhand Knot is used to secure primary knots on itself.

Steps:
1. Start by forming a simple loop with the rope, leaving enough tail for the knot.
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the initial loop from below.
3. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.
4. Ensure that the knot is properly tensioned and secure.

Details:
• This knot can be used to secure primary knots on itself, providing additional stability.
• It is a simple but effective knot for various applications in climbing and rescue operations.

Purpose: Create a secure loop at the end of a rope that can be easily tied and untied.

Steps:
1. Form a bight or cuckold's neck with the working end over the standing part of the rope.
2. Pass the working end back through the bight, under, then over, then under as shown in the illustrations.
3. Continue by passing the working end over and down through the bight, forming a loop.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the bowline knot.

Details:
• The bowline is known as the sailor's knot par excellence and never slips, jams, or fails.
• It can be easily untied even after being under load.
• This knot is useful in a variety of situations, including securing objects or forming a seat for lowering people over cliffs.

Purpose: Create a secure loop in the middle of a rope for slinging casks or forming a seat.

Steps:
1. Form a bight with the working end over the standing part of the rope.
2. Pass the working end back through the bight, under, then over, then under as shown in the illustrations.
3. Continue by passing the working end over and down through the bight, forming a loop in the middle of the rope.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the bowline on a bight.

Details:
• This variation is useful for slinging casks or barrels and for forming a seat for lowering people over cliffs or buildings.
• It can be easily adjusted and released.

Purpose: Create a slip knot that can be easily adjusted and released.

Steps:
1. Tie a bowline as described in the previous procedure.
2. Pass the working end through the loop formed by the bowline, creating a running or slip knot.
3. Pull both ends tight to secure the running bowline.

Details:
• This variation is useful when you need a knot that can be easily adjusted and released without untying the entire knot.
• It is particularly useful in situations where quick adjustments are needed.

Clove Hitch Knot: A simple and effective knot used for securing a rope to a pole or post.

Steps:
1. Wrap the rope around the object (pole or post) once, forming a loop.
2. Cross the free end of the rope over the standing part of the rope.
3. Wrap the free end around the object again in the opposite direction from the first wrap.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• The clove hitch is commonly used for temporary fastenings and can be easily adjusted or removed.
• It is not suitable for heavy loads but is useful for securing items temporarily.
• It is often used in camping, sailing, and construction.

Create a Crown Knot to bind together the strands at a rope's end and as the first step towards a Back Splice. Follow these steps:

1. Unlay the rope to separate its strands.
2. Bend strand I into a bight towards the centre of the rope.
3. Bend strand II into a similar bight, with its end passing through the bight of strand I (see Figure 40 for reference).
4. Pass strand III through the bight of strand II and work all taut.

*Alternative method:* Pass each strand down through the bight of its neighbour to the left instead of to the right. In both methods, the strands come out at the bottom of the knot.

Diamond Knot: A decorative and functional knot used for securing ropes or as an ornament.

Steps:
1. Form two loops in the rope, spaced apart from each other.
2. Pass one end of the rope through both loops, creating a diamond shape.
3. Pull tight to secure the diamond knot.

Details:
• The diamond knot is often used for decorative purposes or as an ornament, but it can also be functional in certain applications.
• It is not suitable for heavy loads but is useful for temporary fastenings.
• Commonly used in fishing, sailing, and crafting.

Figure Eight Knot: A strong and reliable knot used for securing ropes or as a stopper knot.

Steps:
1. Form a loop in the rope with the free end passing through the standing part of the rope.
2. Pass the free end around the standing part of the rope, forming an overhand knot.
3. Pull tight to secure the figure eight knot.

Details:
• The figure eight is known for its strength and reliability, making it a popular choice in climbing and sailing.
• It can also be used as a stopper knot to prevent the rope from slipping through a hole or opening.
• It is often used in climbing, sailing, and construction.

Fisherman's Bend: A strong and reliable knot used for joining two ropes of unequal thickness.

Steps:
1. Form an overhand knot with one end of the rope.
2. Pass the other end through the loop formed by the overhand knot.
3. Pull both ends tight to secure the fisherman's bend.

Details:
• The fisherman's bend is commonly used in fishing and sailing for joining ropes of unequal thickness.
• It is known for its strength and reliability, making it a popular choice in these applications.
• It can be easily untied, making it useful for temporary fastenings.

Half Hitch Knot: A simple knot used to secure a rope temporarily or in combination with other knots.

Steps:
1. Wrap the free end of the rope around the standing part of the rope, forming a loop.
2. Pass the free end through the loop from behind.
3. Pull tight to secure the half hitch.

Details:
• The half hitch is often used in combination with other knots, such as the double half hitch, for greater security.
• It is not suitable for heavy loads on its own but can be useful for temporary fastenings or securing items temporarily.
• Commonly used in camping, sailing, and construction.

Create a Wall Knot to bind together the strands at a rope's end. The strands come out at the top of the knot. Follow these steps:

1. Unlay the rope to separate its strands.
2. Pass strand I outside strand II but inside strand III (see Figure 41a for reference).
3. Pass strand II outside strand III and the end of strand I (see Figure 41b for reference).
4. Dip strand III outside the bight of strand II and bring it up through the bight of strand I (see Figure 41c for reference).
5. Work all taut, cut off the ends, and whip the knot to secure it (see Figure 41d for reference).

Purpose: Secure a rope to a fixed object with adjustable tension.

Steps:
1. Pass the working end of the rope over the standing part, forming a loop.
2. Cross the working end over the standing part again and pass it through the first loop from the outside.
3. Pull both ends tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• This knot is useful when a person holds the free end, as a slight pull will keep it fast while allowing some slack without slipping entirely.
• It can be easily adjusted and released by pulling on the working end.

Purpose: Create a loop at the end of a rope for attaching to another object.

Steps:
1. Form a simple overhand knot with the working end of the rope.
2. Pass the working end through the loop created by the knot, forming a figure-eight shape.
3. Pull both ends tight to secure the lark's head.

Details:
• This knot is often used in conjunction with a running noose for securing ropes.
• It can be easily adjusted and released.

Purpose: To safely and correctly splice wire rope to ensure maximum strength and safety.

Materials Needed:
• Wire rope
• Tools for splicing (e.g., hammer, cold chisel, marline slings, sticks)
• Pocket knife (for cutting the hemp core if needed)

Steps:
1. Prepare the wire rope ends: Untwist the strands of the wire rope using two slings of marline and two sticks to untwist the wire.
2. Lay the strands firmly into position: Ensure that each strand is laid tightly and evenly during the splicing process. Slack strands can reduce the strength of the splice by causing uneven stress distribution.
3. Use proper tuck lengths: Refer to Table 2-2 for the correct amount or length of rope to be unlaid on each end based on the diameter of the wire rope:
- Long splice: 40 times the diameter
- Short splice: 20 times the diameter
4. Cut strands if necessary: Use a pocket knife to cut the hemp core if required during the splicing process.
5. Test the splice (if applicable): When using splices in critical applications where failure may result in material damage or endanger human lives, test the splices under stresses equal to at least twice their maximum working load before placing them into service.

Notes:
• Use only a few tools for splicing wire rope. In addition to standard splicing tools, a hammer and cold chisel are often used to cut the ends of strands.
• Always ensure that the splice is properly formed and tested if required.

Procedure:

1. Pass a belaying-pin or similar toggle through an eye or loop in one end of a rope.
2. Insert the pin through a loop or eye in the broken rope end.
3. Form a loop in the other broken end and pass the free end of the lanyard through this loop and around another toggle or pin.
4. Haul taut to secure the connection.
5. Fasten by using half-hitches around the standing part (A, Fig. 100) or by seizing (B, Fig. 100).

Details:
• This method is useful for quickly joining severed rope ends when rigging is damaged.
• The splice can be tightened or loosened as needed and provides a strong, reliable fastening.

Procedure:

1. Lapped the ends of two ropes together and splice each end into the standing part of the other.
2. Ensure that the lapping is even and secure, with both ends properly tucked under the appropriate layers of the standing parts.
3. Tighten the splice and trim off any loose ends close to the rope.

Details:
• This method forms a loop or eye in the centre of a rope by splicing each end into the other's standing part.
• Once the short and long splices are mastered, this technique becomes straightforward.

Procedure:

1. Untwist the ends of the rope for a few inches and seize with twine to prevent further unwinding, as shown at (A), (A).
2. Seize the end of each strand to prevent unravelling and grease or wax the strands until smooth and even.
3. Place the two ends of the ropes together as shown at (B), (B).
4. With a marline-spike, or a pointed stick, work open the strand 1 (c) and pass the strand (A) of the other rope through it.
5. Open strand 2 and pass the next strand of the other rope through it and continue with the third strand in the same manner.
6. Open up the strands of the other rope below the seizing and pass the strands of the first rope through as before, (3 A), (B).
7. Untwist the six strands and cut away about half the yarns from each and seize the ends as before.
8. Pass these reduced strands through under the whole strands of the rope—strands of the left under the strands of the right rope and vice versa—for two or three lays and then cut off projecting ends after drawing all as tight as possible.
9. If an extra-neat splice is desired, gradually taper the strands as you proceed to ensure a splice that is only slightly larger than the original diameter of the rope.

Details:
• This method creates a neat and strong connection between two ropes.
• The key challenge is ensuring that no two strands run under the same strand of the opposite rope.

Procedure:

1. Unlay the end of the rope as for the short splice.
2. Bend the end around and splice it into its own strands of the standing part, as shown in the illustration (Fig. 108).
3. Ensure that the strands are properly aligned and tuck them under the appropriate layers to form a secure loop.
4. Tighten the splice and trim off any loose ends close to the rope.

Details:
• This method is useful for creating a loop at the end of a rope, which can be used in various applications such as securing items or attaching to other objects.
• The eye splice is easy to make and provides a strong, reliable connection.

Procedure:

1. Do not be stingy with the length of rope ends used for tucking.
2. Allow at least two feet (24 inches) of end length for any rope up to 3 inches in diameter.

Notes:
• Short ends are harder to grip and bend, which can compromise the strength and integrity of the splice.
• This recommendation ensures that the tucking process is manageable and results in a secure, well-formed splice.

A Double Wall Knot Splice is useful when an eye at the end of a rope needs to run right up to a block or pulley because it takes up less space and cannot jam in the sheave. To create this splice:

1. After making the first set of tucks, form a Double Wall Knot with the strands round the rope.

Purpose: To create a short splice in rope ends where slight enlargement is not an issue.

Materials Needed:
• Rope
• Tools for splicing (as needed)

Steps:
1. Prepare the rope end: Ensure that the rope is properly prepared for splicing, as using improperly prepared ends can compromise strength and safety.
2. Lay the strands: Carefully lay the individual strands of the rope into position to form a short splice. This involves tucking the strands in a specific pattern to secure the end with minimal bulk.
3. Secure the splice: Ensure that all strands are firmly seated and properly aligned within the splice to prevent unlaying during use.
4. Inspect for quality: Check the finished splice for evenness, proper seating of strands, and absence of gaps or misalignment.

Notes:
• A short splice develops only 70–90% of the strength of the rope.
• It is bulky and should be used only in applications such as block straps, slings, or where an increase in diameter is not a concern.
• It is not suitable for splicing driving ropes, running tackles, crane ropes, or hoist ropes.

Artificial Eye (Spindle Eye):

To make an artificial or spindle eye:

1. Take a cylindrical piece of wood or metal—the spindle—with a diameter slightly larger than that of the desired eye.
2. Raise two lumps with spunyarn about the diameter of the rope, apart and half its diameter high (Fig. 58a).
3. Lay four pieces of seaming twine along the spindle and stop them in place as shown in figure 580.
4. Unlay the rope, open the strands, and separate each yarn.
5. Hitch the yarns in pairs, one from either side, over the spindle between the lumps (which prevent them from spreading out) until all have been used.
6. Vary the positions of the hitches so that they do not all come together, which would raise a bump on the eye (Fig. 58b).
7. Lay the ends of the yarns along the standing part and lightly stop them to it.
8. Cut the stoppers holding the seaming twine and bring its ends together to knot them in pairs tightly over the hitched yarns.
9. Take off one spunyarn lump and slide the eye off the spindle.
10. Starting at the top, serve the eye down to the fork.
11. Take off the stoppers on the ends of the yarns and scrape the latter down to taper.
12. Serve them down to the standing part.

> (Not essential, but to give a better finish) Cover the eye with cockscombing (see Chapter 7).

Cringling Procedure:

1. Take a strand of rope three and a half times the length of becket required.
2. Tuck one end, tapered, three times into the main rope.
3. Tuck the other end through the rope so as to leave a loop of the size required.
4. Dog this working end back round the loop, keeping the turns in the natural 'lay' of the strand.
5. Pass the working end through the main rope where the first tuck of the standing end was made.
6. Dog the working end back to the other end of the becket, filling up all the spaces left in the lay (effectively laying up a short section of three-stranded rope using only one strand).
7. Finish off by tucking the working end, tapered, three times into the main rope.

*Figure 64a shows only one tuck made.*

For cringles on sail boltropes:
• Pass the ends through the eyelet holes in the sail instead of the rope.
• Finish by tucking them round the cringle itself (as shown in Figure 64b) until they cross under its crown, where they should be cut off short.

To make a 3, 2 and 1 Splice:

This is another easily made, but not quite so strong, splice.

1. Without injuring the fibre heart, insert the spike through the rope, entering between strands III and IV and emerging between strands I and VI.
2. Pass end No. 1 through beside the spike, on the opposite side of it to the heart, which should be to the left of the spike.
3. Drop strand I off the spike point and pass end No. 2 through to emerge between I and II.
4. Drop strand II off the point and pass end No. 3 through to emerge between II and III. Three ends now enter through the centre but emerge from under different strands.
5. Tuck 4 under IV, 5 under V and 6 under VI all from left to right.
6. Continue as for a right-handed splice.

To make a left-handed (naval) Splice:

1. Number the ends in Arabic numerals and identify the strands under which they are tucked.
2. When the unlaid ends are spread out evenly in natural order, the end on the extreme right is No. 1. Then, reading to the left, come Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, the extreme left-hand end.
3. When these ends are laid on the standing part of the rope with their fork at the point where the splice is to commence, the strand nearest to end No. 1 is strand I. Then, reading to the left round the rope, come strands II, III, IV, V and VI which is I's right-hand neighbour.
4. Tuck end No. 1 under strand I, 2 under II, 3 under III, and 4 under IV, all tucks to be made from right to left.
5. Tuck end No. 6 under strands V and VI.
6. Pull out the spike only far enough to allow strand VI to drop down and tuck end No. 5 under strand V.
7. Every end now passes under its own strand except end No. 6 which passes under *two* strands, from right to left like the others.
8. Haul and beat the tucks tight (Fig. 120a). This completes the first set of tucks.

Optional: Some people cut the strand hearts out now instead of before making the first tucks. A good rope yarn whipping may also be put over the completed tucks before proceeding to stage 5 in order to hold them in place whilst completing the splice.

9. Tuck all ends again twice, over one, under one, as in splicing hempen rope.
10. Lay back one-third of each end along the wire, stop these portions and make another set of tucks with the remaining two-thirds.
11. Similarly lay back and stop a second third and tuck the remainder of each strand. This tapers the splice off neatly (Fig. 120b). Cut off all ends and serve over the splice.

To make a Reduced Eye Splice:

If, for some reason, an ordinary eye splice will be too bulky, a reduced splice might serve instead, but it is not, of course, so strong.

1. Measure off enough rope to make an eye of the required size, plus the length of ends needed to make four tucks, and pass a stout whipping round it at this point.
2. Unlay to this point and halve every strand and the heart.
3. Re-lay six half strands (one from each whole strand) and half of the heart to form a reduced wire and proceed as for a normal eye splice.

Re-laying Method:
• The half-strands may be re-laid by using your fingers, but a better method is to take a small flat piece of wood and in it bore six holes in a circle with a seventh at the centre.
• Pass one half-strand through each hole and the half-heart through the centre one and, by twisting the wood round and round, re-lay the wire.

To make a right-handed Eye Splice:

This splice, sometimes called 'over and under' or 'Liverpool style', is popular in the merchant marine for it is quicker to make than a left-handed splice; but its use is frowned upon in the navy because it is not so strong. In any case, it should never be used on a wire that is liable to spin, e.g. in hoisting, as it might unlay.

1. Tuck end No. 1 under strands II and I (in that order) *from left to right.*
2. Drop strand I off the point of the spike and tuck end No. 2 under strand II *from left to right.*
3. Tuck ends Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6 also from left to right under III, IV, V and VI respectively. This completes the first set of tucks.
4. Tuck again three times with full strands and twice with 'thirded' from left to right so that each end is always tucked under the same strand (in other words, so that it encircles it spirally).
5. Cut off ends and serve.

To make an eye projecting from the side of a rope:

1. At the point where the eye needs to be made, grip the rope with both hands and twist in opposite directions.
2. This action will force out the strands that are doubled (as shown in figure 56).
3. Continue twisting until they are long enough to be tucked at least twice.
4. With these strands, make a simple Eye Splice.

Procedure:

1. Separate the strands of the rope and apply individual whippings to each strand.
2. Cut out the fibre heart of the rope as far back as possible. This step is not essential but results in a slimmer, neater, and potentially safer splice.
3. If the strands have individual hearts, cut them out one at a time.
4. After cutting out a strand's heart, remove the whipping temporarily and replace it before moving on to the next strand.

Notes:
• Cutting out the fibre hearts improves the quality of the splice.
• Ensure that you do not rush this process; careful handling is essential for a secure splice.

Splicing braided ropes is a difficult task because of the tightness of the braiding.

To join two braided ropes:

1. Unbraid them for a sufficient distance.
2. Put on a whipping at this point.
3. Rebraid them as described under 'Round Sennit' in Chapter 7, ensuring that the braiding is looser than it was originally.
4. Short splice them in a way similar to that described below for laid ropes, but allowing for the difference in the number and arrangement of strands.

> This would be a difficult task for any but an expert.

Making an eye at the end of a braided rope is somewhat easier:
1. Simply unlay the strands for a sufficient distance.
2. Form them into an eye and marl them down to the standing part.
3. This method is called an Artificial Eye because no tucking is involved.

Overview: Splicing is a method of joining one rope to another or two parts of the same rope by tucking the strands of one under and over those of the other. When strain is applied, the strands bite inward and hold each other in position. However, it is still safer to assume that a splice reduces the strength of a rope by about one-eighth.

### Preparation Steps:
1. Begin by unlaying the rope(s) for a certain distance.
2. A temporary whipping at the fork, i.e., where the unlaying ends, may be used to prevent strands from untwisting further. This is especially helpful when starting out but may become unnecessary with practice on smaller ropes.
3. Whipping the end of each individual strand will help produce a neater finish to the splice.

### Tucking Technique:
• All tucks should be made with the lay of the rope, unless otherwise directed, and roughly at right angles to its strands.
• Pull the tucks tight along the lay.
• Ensure they lie snugly by using the following methods:
- Stretching and twisting the splice.
- Rolling it on a table with the palm of the hand, or on the floor with the foot.
- Hammering the strands home lightly with a wooden mallet.

### Finishing the Splice:
• A completed splice will look neater and gain in strength if it is wormed, parcelled, and served.

Procedure:

1. Make a slightly longer splice than for the same size rope of regular lay due to the tendency of the rope to untwist.
2. Follow the procedure for regular lay ropes up to the point of tucking the ends.
3. Cross over the strands instead of laying them side by side where they pass each other to increase the holding power of the splice.
4. Untwist the strands for a length of about 3 inches at the crossing point so that they cross over each other without materially increasing the diameter of the rope.
5. Finish the tucks in the usual manner, ensuring that the final splice is tight and secure.

Splicing Hempen Rope into Wire Rope Procedure:

1. Proceed as for a Short Splice in hempen rope, working the wire rope in three pairs of adjacent strands.
2. Make at least six tucks on either side of the crutching point.
3. Marl, parcel and serve over the whole splice when it is complete.

*If the hempen rope is four-stranded, treat the wire rope (which has six strands) as a three-stranded rope, working its strands in four pairs and two singly.*

A Cut Splice is sometimes used instead of a Short Splice to join two ropes, as it is easier to make, although it leaves an even larger lump in the rope. It provides an oblong loop in the middle of the rope.

To make this loop:
1. Cut the rope where the loop is required.
2. Splice end 'A' into end 'B' at position I, tucking as for an Eye Splice.
3. Splice end 'B' into end 'A' at position II, tucking as for an Eye Splice and making sure that you have put your splices where they will leave a loop of rope between them and not merely two parts of rope lying snugly side by side (see Figure 61).

Long Splicing is used where a rope has to reeve through a block or pulley because it does not produce a bump. However, it uses up considerably more rope than a short splice.

To make a Long Splice, follow these steps:
1. Unlay the two ropes to ten times their circumference.
2. Crutch the strands as for a Short Splice.
3. Further unlay one strand of rope 'A' and lay up the opposing strand of rope 'B' in its place until only some two inches of the 'B' strand remain unused.
4. Similarly, unlay one strand of rope 'B' and lay up a strand of 'A' in its place.
5. Leave the two remaining strands, one of each rope, as they are (see Figure 60).
6. Finish off in one of these ways:
- (a) Half knot each pair of opposing strands, taper the ends and tuck as for a Short Splice;
- (b) Tuck the tapered ends as in a Short Splice but against the lay so that each end goes continually round the same strand;
- (c) As for (b), but before tucking the ends, halve each one and tuck each half round a different strand to that encircled by its 'twin'. This gives a very smooth finish.

Note: These three methods do not exhaust the possible endings to a Long Splice. Different ships may have their own ways of making a Long Splice, but with practice, you can devise your own method.

To long splice four-stranded ropes, proceed as for three-stranded but ensure that the four points where strands of the opposing ropes meet are evenly spaced. Do not have two close together.

To long splice a three-stranded rope into one of four strands:
1. Unlay both ropes and crutch the strands. (You are bound to have a pair of the 'four' strands passing between two of the 'three' strands.)
2. Further unlay one strand of the three-stranded rope and lay in one of the 'four' strands.
3. Further unlay one of the 'four' strands and lay in one of the 'three', choosing your strands so that the two of the 'four' strands which are left are the pair which were crutched together.
4. Divide the remaining strand of the three-stranded rope into two unequal portions, a third and two-thirds.
5. Half knot the one-third portion with one of the remaining 'four' strands.
6. Further unlay the last 'four' strand and lay up the two-thirds strand in its place.
7. Half knot all ends and finish as for a simple Long Splice.

To create a Mariner's Splice in cable-laid rope:
1. Unlay the ends of the cables to six times their circumference.
2. Unlay each of the ropes of which the cables are composed.
3. Crutch the strands of each rope with those of the corresponding rope in the other cable in such a way that the three forks do not come opposite to each other.
4. Long splice each pair of ropes into each other as described above.

Chain Splice Procedure:

1. Unlay the rope for about six times its circumference.
2. Further unlay strand I for a distance equal to the circumference of the eye required plus one more turn.
3. Pass strands II and III through the end link of the chain, and bring them back to form an eye with their still laid-up parts.
4. Lay strand II into the space left by strand I.
5. Further unlay strand I for about a foot, and lay strand II up in its place.
6. Half knot strands I and II.
7. Tuck away the ends of I and II as for a Long Splice.
8. Tuck strand III as for a simple Eye Splice.

*Figure 62 shows I and II knotted and the first tuck of III.*

Purpose: To create a secure and quickly tied fastening around an object.

Materials Required: Rope and post, ring, or other object to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope around the post, ring, or object you are attaching it to.
2. Bring the end over and around the standing part of the rope between the post and itself (this forms the first half-hitch).
3. Continue by passing the end under and around the standing part again, forming a second half-hitch between its own loop and the first one formed.

Notes: With practice, this can be tied almost instantly. It is very secure and will not slip or loosen on smooth or round objects even under heavy strain.

Purpose: To create a simple and effective hitch for securing a rope to a hook.

Materials Required: Rope and hook to attach to.

Steps:
1. Create a loop or 'cuckold's neck' with the end of the rope.
2. Pass the end of the rope underneath the standing part, then across the hook so that pressure will cause it to jam against the hook and hold securely.

Notes: This hitch is especially useful in situations where a quick, secure fastening is needed without the need for complex knots.

Purpose: To create a strong and adjustable hitch for hoisting with a hook.

Materials Required: Rope and hook to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the bight of your rope over the end and standing part, forming a loop.
2. Take a bight in each hand, then take three twists from you, creating a twisted section of the rope.
3. Bring the two bights side by side and throw them over the hook to complete the hitch.

Notes: This is particularly useful for hoisting heavy objects with hooks on boats or in construction.

Purpose: To create a strong and adjustable fastening for hauling or lifting heavy objects.

Materials Required: Rope and object to attach to (e.g., timber, large rope).

Steps:
1. Take a number of half-hitches at intervals around the object, forming a chain-like pattern.
2. This hitch is often used in conjunction with a lever or handspike for added control during hauling operations.

Notes: It is especially useful when working with large ropes or logs and can be adjusted as needed.

Purpose: To secure large hawsers or ropes to spars or rings.

Materials Required: Rope and spar or ring to attach to.

Steps:
1. Take two turns around the spar or through the ring, then take a half-hitch around the standing part and under all the turns.
2. Take another half-hitch around the standing part only, and if desired, seize the end to the standing part for added security.

Notes: This hitch is particularly useful in securing large ropes on ships or boats.

Purpose: To secure the halyard of a gaff topsail to the yard.

Materials Required: Rope and yard or spar to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope around the yard, then take two turns around it, forming a loop.
2. Bring up on a third turn over both the first two turns, then over its own part and one turn.
3. Stick the end under the first turn to complete the hitch.

Notes: This is used specifically for securing gaff topsails on sailing vessels.

Purpose: To create a more secure version of the Clove Hitch for heavy-duty use.

Materials Required: Rope and spar or post to attach to.

Steps:
1. Tie a Clove Hitch as described above around the spar or post.
2. Once the hitch is tied, knot the ends of the rope together (this forms the 'Gunners' Knot').

Notes: This variation adds extra security and is used in applications where the load may be heavy or unpredictable.

Purpose: To create a secure and adjustable fastening for ropes.

Materials Required: Rope and object to attach to.

Steps:
1. Take a half-hitch around the standing part, then take a round turn twice around above it.

Notes: This is a simple but effective hitch used in maritime applications.

Purpose: To fasten a tackle, hook, ring, or another rope to a beam using the same rope.

Materials Required: Rope and beam to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope around the beam, then twist it in such a way that it forms a tight grip, similar to a half-hitch but with additional twists for security.

Notes: This hitch is particularly useful when working on ships or other structures where space and materials are limited.

Purpose: To create a modified Clove Hitch for securing ropes to other ropes or objects under tension.

Materials Required: Rope and object or rope to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope around the standing part, forming a loop (this is similar to a Clove Hitch).
2. Twist the end of the rope slightly, creating a 'rolling' effect that allows it to hold under tension without slipping.

Notes: This hitch is useful in situations where the rope is already under strain and needs to be secured quickly.

Purpose: To securely fasten a rope to a log or spar for heavy lifting.

Materials Required: Rope and log or spar to attach to.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope around the log or spar, then around the standing part of the rope (this forms the first loop).
2. Twist the end of the rope three or more times around itself, under and over, creating a tight grip on the object.
3. For added security, take a single half-hitch with the line a couple of feet further along the spar.

Notes: This hitch is especially useful in logging operations for securing logs to winches or other lifting equipment.

Purpose: To fasten a rope to a ring or object where quick release is needed.

Materials Required: Rope, ring or object to attach to, and a toggle (e.g., marline-spike, billet of wood).

Steps:
1. Pass a bight of your rope through the ring or object you are attaching it to.
2. Insert a toggle (such as a marline-spike or wooden billet) through the sides of the bight and under or behind the standing part of the rope, as shown in Figure 30.
3. Lay the end of the rope over and under the standing part and back over itself to complete the hitch.

Release: To release this knot quickly, simply pull out the toggle.

Notes: This is a simple and quick-to-release hitch that is especially useful for securing boats or other objects where rapid detachment may be necessary.

Purpose: To fasten a rope to an object where it can be quickly released.

Materials Required: Rope and ring or eye to attach to.

Steps:
1. Run the end of the rope through the ring or eye to which you are attaching it.
2. Pull the end back over the standing part of the rope, forming a loop or bight (referred to as the 'cuckold's neck').
3. Pass the end of the rope through this loop, creating a hitch that can be easily released.

Release: To untie this knot, simply pull on the free end of the rope.

Notes: This is another quick-to-make and quick-to-release hitch, ideal for temporary fastenings.

Creating Half-Hitch Serving

1. Take a half-hitch around the rope: Take a half-hitch around the rope to be served, then another below it; draw snug;
2. Repeat process: Take another half-hitch and so on until the object is covered and the series of half-hitch knots forms a spiral twist, as shown in the illustrations.
3. Use for covering objects: Bottles, jugs, ropes, stanchions, fenders, and numerous other articles may be covered with half-hitch work; and as you become more expert you will be able to use several lines of half-hitches at the same time.

Creating a Common Shroud Knot

1. Open up the strands: Open up the strands of a rope's end as for a short splice and place the two ends together in the same way.
2. Single wall the strands: Single "wall" the strands of one rope around the standing part of another against the lay.
3. Taper the ends: Taper the ends and tuck and serve all with yarn or marline, as shown in Fig. 118.

Creating a Crown-Braid

1. Process like ordinary crowning: The process of forming this braid is exactly like ordinary crowning and does not require any description; it may be done with any number of strands, but four or six are usually as many as the beginner cares to handle at one time.
2. Ornamental finish: Still more ornamental is the "Crown-braid" which appears, when finished, as in Fig. 143.

Creating a Double Wall and Crown Knot

1. Make single wall or crown: Make a single wall or crown knot as described earlier.
2. Carry ends around second time: Instead of trimming off or tucking the ends, carry them around a second time following the lay of the first, as shown in Fig. 121, which shows the construction of a double crown at _A_ , and a double wall at _B_ .
3. Trim or tuck ends: When finished, the ends may be tucked or trimmed and the two knots will look like Figs. 122 and 123.

Creating a French Shroud Knot

1. Open up the strands: Open up the strands and place closely together as for the short splice.
2. Make a loop of strand A: Make a loop of strand _A_ , pass the end of _B_ through the bight of _A_ , as at _C_ .
3. Make a loop of strand D: Make a loop of strand _D_ , and pass the end of strand _A_ through it as at _D_ .
4. Pass the end of strand D: Pass the end of strand _D_ through the bight of strand _B_ and one side is complete.
5. Repeat on other side: Repeat the operation on the other side, draw all ends taut, and taper and tuck the ends.
6. Serve carefully: The whole should then be served carefully and the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 120.

Creating a Matthew Walker Knot (Stopper Knot)

1. Pass one strand around: Pass one strand around the standing part of the rope and through its own bight.
2. Pass B underneath: Pass _B_ underneath and through bight of _A_ and through its own bight also;
3. Pass C underneath: Next pass _C_ underneath and around and through the bights of _A_ , _B_ , and its own bight.
4. Haul ends around: By carefully hauling the ends around and working the bight taut a little at a time, the knot will assume the appearance shown in Fig. 133.

Result: This is a handsome and useful knot and is widely used on ends of ropes where they pass through holes, as for bucket handles, ropes for trap-door handles, chest handles, etc.

Crowning a Wall Knot

1. Make a single wall knot: First make a single wall knot.
2. Bring strand A up over the top: Bring strand _A_ up over the top and lay _B_ across _A_ and bring _C_ over _B_ and through the bight of _A_ ; a crown knot is formed above the wall, as shown in Figs. 124 and 125.
3. Form double wall and crown: This is the foundation of the most beautiful of rope-end knots, known as the "Double Wall and Crown," or "Manrope Knot," illustrated in Fig. 126.
4. Pass ends through bights: Make your single wall and crown it, but leave the strands all slack; then pass the ends up and through the bights of the slack single-wall knot and then push them alongside the strands in the single crown; pushing them through the same bight in the crown and downward through the walling.
5. Taper and tuck: If properly done, and ends drawn tight and cut off closely, there will be no sign of a beginning or ending to this knot. This is probably the most useful of decorative knots and is largely used aboard ship for finishing the ends of rope railings, the ends of man-ropes, for the ends of yoke-lines and to form "stoppers" or "toggles" to bucket handles, slings, etc.

Ending a Rope with a Crown Knot

1. Leave projecting ends long: Leave the projecting ends of the rope long.
2. Bring ends down: Bring these ends down and tuck them under the strands of the standing part, as shown in Fig. 112.
3. Halve the strands: Halve the strands and tuck again, as in making a short splice, until the result appears as in Fig. 113.

Result: This makes a neat, handy, and ship-shape finish to a rope's end and is very useful for painters, halyards, etc.

Four-Strand Braiding

1. Cross opposite strands: The process is illustrated in Fig. 141, and consists in crossing the opposite strands across and past one another, as shown in _A_ , _B_ , _C_ , Fig 141.
2. Ornamental braiding: This is highly ornamental and is easy and simple.

Using Ropes for Straps, Belts, Buckles, Swivels, and Slings

1. Roping objects: When the rope-worker has mastered all the knots, ties, bends, hitches, and splices I have described, he will find a new field open to the use of rope in innumerable ways.
2. Slung or roped objects: Barrels, casks, bales, or other objects may be roped, or slung, with ease and security;
3. Ropes as straps and belts: Ropes will be pressed into service for straps and belts;
4. Forming buckles: Buckles may be readily formed by the simple expedient shown in Fig. 144.
5. Swivel arrangement: If a swivel is required it can be arranged as shown in Fig. 145, while several simple slings are illustrated in Figs. 146-148.

Worming, Serving, and Parcelling a Rope

1. Worming: Worming consists in twisting a small line into the grooves between the strands of rope, _A_ , Fig. 138. This fills up the grooves and makes the rope smooth and ready for serving or parcelling.
2. Parcelling: Parcelling consists in covering the rope already wormed with a strip of canvas wound spirally around it with the edges overlapping, _B_ , Fig. 138.
3. Serving: Serving is merely wrapping the rope with spun yarn, marline, or other small stuff, _C_ , Fig. 138. Although this may all be done by hand, yet it can be accomplished far better by using a "Serving Mallet," shown in _D_ , Fig. 138.
4. Use serving mallet: This instrument enables you to work tighter and more evenly than by hand, but in either case you must have the rope to be served stretched tightly between two uprights.

Creating a Single Crown Knot

1. Unlay the strands: Take a new, flexible rope and unlay the strands for six to eight inches.
2. Whip the ends: Whip the ends of each strand as well as the standing part to prevent further untwisting.
3. Hold the rope: Hold the rope in your left hand.
4. Fold one strand: Fold one strand over and away from you, as shown in _A_ , Fig. 111.
5. Fold the next strand: Fold the next strand over _A_ (see _B_ , Fig. 111).
6. Pass the third strand: While holding these in place with thumb and finger, pass the strand _C_ over strand _B_ , and through the bight of _A_ as shown in the illustration.
7. Tighten and smooth: Pull all ends tight and work the bights up smooth and snug.
8. Trim the ends: Cut off the ends to complete the knot.

Note: This single crown is a very poor knot to stand by itself, however, and is mainly valuable as a basis for other more complicated knots and for ending up rope.

Purpose: The cat’s-paw is used to fasten an endless sling to a hook or at the end of a rope.

Procedure:
1. Tie the cat’s-paw knot (see Figure 2-18).
2. Use it to fasten an endless sling to a hook, or make it at the end of a rope to fasten the rope to a hook.
3. This knot is easily tied and untied.
4. It is a more satisfactory way of attaching a rope to a hook than the blackwall hitch.
5. It will not slip off and need not be kept taut to make it hold.

Steps to Tie a Draw Hitch:

1. Take one bight of rope up behind the bar and another in front of it (Fig. 32a).
2. Pass the front bight through the back one and pull taut with the loose end, which leaves the front bight still standing (Fig. 32b).
3. Make a third bight with the loose end and pass it through bight II.
4. Pull taut with the standing part (Fig. 32c).

Steps to Tie a Marline Hitch:

1. Make an eye in the end of the rope (a small bowline will do).
2. Pass the other end round the bundle, through the eye and haul taut.
3. Continue along the bundle with a series of Half Hitches which should be in line, hauling each taut as it is made.
4. Finish with a Clove Hitch instead of a Half Hitch. (See also Fig. 69.)

Steps to Tie a Monkey's Fist:

1. Make a hank of three or four turns near the end of the rope.
2. Pass the loose end round the waist of this hank three times.
3. Pass the end through the loops formed at the ends of the hank and round the turns already taken three times (Fig. 33a).
4. Complete stages 2 and 3 twice more.
5. Work the knot tight.
6. Either (a) cut off the end close to the knot (Fig. 33b) or (b) splice it into the standing part.

Procedure for Tying a Bowline-on-a-Coil Knot:

1. Prepare the Rope: With the running end, place 3 feet of rope over your right shoulder. The running end is to the back of the body.

2. Wrap Around Body: Starting at the bottom of your rib cage, wrap the standing part of the rope around your body and down in a clockwise direction four to eight times.

3. Form Loop Toward Body: With the standing portion of the rope in your left hand, make a clockwise loop toward the body. The standing portion is on the bottom.

4. Pass Loop Under Coils: Ensuring the loop does not come uncrossed, bring it up and under the coils between the rope and your body.

5. Create Bight Through Loop: Using the standing part, bring a bight up through the loop. Grasp the running end of the rope with the right hand. Pass it through the bight from right to left and back on itself.

6. Dress the Knot: Holding the bight loosely, dress the knot down by pulling on the standing end.

7. Secure the Knot: Safety the bowline with an overhand around the top, single coil. Then, tie an overhand around all coils, leaving a minimum 4-inch pigtail.

Checkpoints for Bowline-on-a-Coil Knot:
• A minimum of four wraps, not crossed, with a bight held in place by a loop.
• The loop must be underneath all wraps.
• A minimum 4-inch pigtail after the second overhand safety is tied.
• Must be centered on the mid-line of the body.

Procedure for Tying a Figure-Eight Slip Knot:

1. Form Bight: Form a 12-inch bight in the end of the rope.

2. Hold Bight and Standing Part: Hold the center of the bight in the right hand. Hold the two parallel ropes from the bight in the left hand about 12 inches up the rope.

3. Twist Bight: With the center of the bight in the right hand, twist two complete turns clockwise.

4. Reach Through Bight and Pull: Reach through the bight and grasp the long, standing end of the rope. Pull another bight (from the long standing end) back through the original bight.

5. Dress the Knot: Pull down on the short working end of the rope and dress the knot down.

6. Secure for Transport System (Optional): If the knot is to be used in a transport tightening system, take the working end of the rope and form a half hitch around the loop of the figure eight knot.

Checkpoints for Figure-Eight Slip Knot:
• The knot is in the shape of a figure eight.
• Both ropes of the bight pass through the same loop of the figure eight.
• The sliding portion of the rope is the long working end of the rope.

Procedure for Tying a Three-Loop Bowline Knot:

1. Form Bight: Form an approximate 24-inch bight.

2. Create Doubled Loop: With the right thumb facing toward the body, form a doubled loop in the standing part by turning the wrist clockwise. Lay the loops to the right.

3. Pull Up Bight: With the right hand, reach down through the loops and pull up a doubled bight from the standing part of the rope.

4. Pass Running End Through Bight: Place the running end (bight) of the rope (on the left) through the doubled bight from left to right and bring it back on itself. Hold the running end loosely and dress the knot down by pulling on the standing parts.

5. Secure with Safety Knot: Safety it off with a doubled overhand knot.

Checkpoints for Three-Loop Bowline Knot:
• There are two bights held in place by two loops.
• The bights form locking bars around the standing parts.
• The running end (bight) must be on the inside of the fixed loops.
• There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after the double overhand safety knot is tied.

Purpose: Create secure handcuffs using a rope.

Steps:
1. Tie a running knot as described in the previous procedure.
2. Pass the firm end of the rope through the open, simple knot to form a double loop or bow.
3. Place the hands or wrists within these loops and draw them taut.
4. Tie the loose ends firmly around the central part of the knot to complete the handcuffs.

Details:
• This knot is known as the Tomfool Knot and has been used as a secure form of handcuffs.
• It is particularly effective in securing hands or wrists, even against attempts to escape.

Procedure:

1. Pass the lashing around and around the two objects (ropes, hawsers, or timbers) that need to be joined.
2. Ensure even tension is applied across all turns of the lashing.
3. Secure the ends of the lashing by drawing them through beneath the turns of the band.

Details:
• This method is similar to the necklace tie and is used for the same purpose.
• The close band provides a secure fastening that can be adjusted if needed.

Procedure:

1. Obtain a small line and pass it back and forth through the holes in the deadeyes (A).
2. Ensure the line is taut and evenly distributed across all holes.
3. Secure the ends of the line to the standing rigging using seizings or half-hitches to prevent slipping.
4. Check that the lashing allows for easy lengthening or shortening of the rigging, especially when used with wire cable.

Details:
• This method is commonly used on ships' standing rigging and is a familiar sight on sailing vessels.
• The deadeye lashing provides flexibility in adjusting rigging lengths.

Procedure:

1. Pass the lashing around and around the two objects (ropes, hawsers, or timbers) that need to be joined.
2. Ensure even tension is applied across all turns of the lashing.
3. Secure the ends of the lashing by tying a square knot passed lengthwise around the band.

Details:
• This method is useful for holding two ropes or objects side by side.
• The necklace tie provides a secure and adjustable fastening.

Procedure:

1. Identify two eyes or ropes finished with loops that need to be joined.
2. Pass the lashing around both loops, ensuring even tension across all turns.
3. Secure the ends of the lashing by tying a square knot around the band lengthwise.
4. Ensure the lashing is tight and evenly spaced for maximum strength and stability.

Details:
• This method is ideal for joining two ropes or eyes with loops.
• The rose lashing provides a neat, secure fastening that can be easily adjusted if needed.

Purpose: The block lashing is used to tie a tackle block to a spar.

Steps:
1. Make three right turns of the rope around the spar where the tackle block is to be attached.
2. Pass the next two turns of the rope through the mouth of the hook or shackle of the tackle block and draw them tightly.
3. Put three additional taut turns of the rope around the spar above the hook or shackle.
4. Complete the block lashing by tying the two ends of the rope together with a square knot.
5. If using a sling supported by a block lashing, pass the sling through the center four turns to secure it properly.

Notes:
• Ensure that all turns are tight and evenly spaced for maximum strength.
• The square knot is used at the end to ensure the rope remains securely tied.

Purpose: The shears lashing is used to lash two spars together at one end to form an expedient device called a shears.

Steps:
1. Lay two spars side by side, spaced about one-third of the diameter of a spar apart, with the butt ends together.
2. Start the shears lashing a short distance in from the top of one of the spars by tying the end of the rope to it with a clove hitch.
3. Make eight tight turns around both spars above the clove hitch.
4. Tighten the lashing with a minimum of two frapping turns around the eight turns.
5. Finish the shears lashing by tying the end of the rope to the opposite spar from which you started with another clove hitch.

Notes:
• Ensure that the spars are properly aligned and spaced for even tension across the lashing.
• The frapping turns help compress the rope around the spars, increasing stability.

Purpose: The square lashing is used to lash two spars together at right angles to each other.

Steps:
1. Begin with a clove hitch on one spar, securing the rope in place.
2. Make a minimum of four complete turns around both members (the two spars being lashed together).
3. Continue by making two frapping turns between the vertical and horizontal spar to tighten the lashing.
4. Tie off the running end to the opposite spar from which you started with another clove hitch to finish the square lashing.

Notes:
• Ensure that all turns are tight and evenly spaced for maximum strength.
• The frapping turns help to compress the rope around the spars, increasing the stability of the lashing.

To put on a Diagonal Lashing:

This should not be put on until the ends of the spars concerned have been securely fixed.

1. Put a tight Timber Hitch diagonally over the crossing (Fig. 79a).
2. Continue with three or four tight turns in the same direction as the hitch and the same number at right angles to it (Fig. 79b).
3. Put on frapping turns between the spars.
4. Finish with a Clove Hitch over one spar (Fig. 79c).

To put on a Sheer Lashing:

1. Start with the legs parallel to each other.
2. Put a clove hitch round one spar and dog the loose end round the standing part.
3. Take a number of turns around both spars together (ten will generally be enough) hauling each taut as made (Fig. 80a).
4. Splay out the legs to the required angle without allowing the tension on the lashing to ease and put on three or four frapping turns (Fig. 80b).
5. Finish with a Clove Hitch on one spar.

When lashing two poles end to end, carry out stages 1 to 3 as above but begin and end with a Clove Hitch round both poles and double the number of turns taken. As there will be no room for Trapping turns, drive in wedges of wood to tighten the lashing (Fig. 81).

A Jamming Turn is used to increase the holding power of a hitch by creating additional friction between the standing part and the loose end of the rope.

Steps:
1. Begin with a basic round turn around an object (e.g., a cleat or bollard).
2. Follow with one or more figure-of-eight turns around the same object to increase friction.
3. Take the final turn as a jamming turn, ensuring that the standing part of the rope rides over the loose end.
4. The greater the pull on the rope, the tighter the jamming turn becomes, preventing the rope from slipping through.

Warnings:
• A jamming turn should not be used with ropes that need to be quickly released (e.g., sail sheets), as it may become too tight to release in an emergency.

A Double Blackwall Hitch provides greater security than a single Blackwall Hitch when securing a rope to a hook or strop.

Steps:
1. Place the bight of the rope across the strop to which the hook is attached.
2. Cross the parts behind the strop and back toward the hook itself, ensuring that the standing part is on top of the loose end at both crossings.
3. Repeat the process for a second loop to create a double hitch.

Notes:
• This method ensures greater holding power and stability.
• For safety, ensure the rope's end is longer than shown in illustrations.

Double Figure-of-Eight Loop is a strong knot that reduces wear and strength loss from the rope bending around the carabiner by splitting the load between two loops.

Steps:
1. Create the first figure-eight loop as described in the Figure-of-Eight-Loop procedure.
2. Repeat the process to create a second loop adjacent to the first one, ensuring both loops are parallel and evenly spaced.
3. Pull both ends of the rope tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• This knot is ideal for use with carabiners in climbing or rescue scenarios.
• The double loop distributes the load more evenly across the rope.

French Prusik Knot is used to create friction on a rope and can be constructed with either a Prusik Cord or a single strand of cord with figure-of-eight loops on each end.

Steps:
1. Use a smaller diameter cord (Prusik Cord) or a single strand of cord with figure-of-eight loops on both ends.
2. Wrap the cord around the main rope in a series of overlapping loops, forming a coil.
3. Ensure that the cord is tied securely to prevent slippage.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the knot on the main rope.

Details:
• This knot provides additional friction and can be used for various climbing and rescue applications.
• It is particularly useful in situations where a high degree of control over the rope is required.

Kliemheist Knot is used as a friction knot in various climbing and rescue applications.

Steps:
1. Start by forming a loop with the rope, leaving enough tail for the knot.
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the initial loop from below.
3. Continue wrapping the rope around the standing part in a specific pattern to create friction.
4. Ensure that the knot is properly tensioned and secure.
5. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

Details:
• This knot provides significant friction and can be used for various climbing and rescue applications.
• It is particularly useful in situations where control over the rope is essential.

Retraced Figure-of-Eight is used to tie the end of the climbing rope into a harness or swammi wrap.

Steps:
1. Start by forming a loop with the rope, leaving enough tail for the retracing process.
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the initial loop from below.
3. Continue wrapping the rope around the standing part in a figure-eight pattern, ensuring that the pigtail is properly aligned.
4. Secure the pigtail with an overhand knot if needed.
5. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.

Details:
• This knot is used for securing the end of a climbing rope into a harness or swammi wrap.
• It provides a secure and reliable connection between the rope and the harness.

Two-Loop Bowline is used to construct a self-equalizing belay or to tie the middle person in on three people on a rope.

Steps:
1. Form a loop with the rope, leaving enough tail for the second loop.
2. Pass the working end of the rope through the initial loop from below, forming the first loop.
3. Repeat the process to create a second parallel loop adjacent to the first one.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the knot.

Details:
• This knot is useful in belaying and securing multiple people on a single rope.
• It provides a self-equalizing system that distributes weight evenly.

To tie Two Half Hitches with the ends stopped back:

1. Make a half hitch around the standing part of one rope.
2. Make another half hitch in the same direction, ensuring that both hitches are tight and secure.
3. Stop the ends back to the standing parts as shown in figure 37.

Note: This is a quicker alternative to the Carrick Bend when the ropes do not need to pass around a capstan or winch.

To tie a Carrick Bend:

1. Form the basic loop with the larger rope (see figure 7).
2. Pass the end of the smaller rope under this loop.
3. Take this end as shown in figure 36a:
- Over the larger rope's standing part,
- Under its loose end,
- Over one side of its bight,
- Under the smaller rope's own part,
- Over the other side of the bight.
4. When tightened, the ends come out on opposite sides of the knot and should be stopped to the standing parts if the ropes are large.

Advantage: The Carrick Bend forms a flat knot that does not impede the progress of the ropes round a capstan or winch.

To tie a Double Overhand Knot for thin lines:

1. Make an overhand knot on the end of one line.
2. Pass the other line through this knot and make another overhand knot with it around the standing part of the first line (see figure 38).

Note: This is a more secure alternative to a single overhand knot for joining thin lines.

To tie a Reef Knot correctly:

1. Bring the two ropes together and form a half knot by twisting one end over the other (right-hand end over left-hand end).
2. Take the ends back and twist them again, but this time take the left-hand end over the right-hand end.
3. Ensure that both parts of each rope pass through the bight of the other rope side by side.
4. If one part is above and the other below, the result will be an insecure Granny Knot.

To free a Reef Knot:
1. Hold both parts of one rope in one hand and those of the other rope in the other hand.
2. Push them together to loosen the knot.

Note: A Reef Knot is very secure under strain, but it may loosen if the ropes are relaxed.

To tie a Sheet Bend:

1. Form a bight in the larger rope (or use the eye if there is one).
2. Pass the smaller rope up through this bight.
3. With the smaller rope's end, take a complete turn round both parts of the larger rope and pass it under its own part.

For extra security, especially if the ropes are wet or if one is considerably larger than the other:
1. Repeat step 3 to make a Double Sheet Bend.

Note: A Sheet Bend can also be used to secure a rope to a hard eye in the end of another rope. In this case, it is called a Slippery Bend, and it is taken with the bight for quick release even under strain.

To tie a Spunyarn Knot for loosely twisted lines such as spunyarn or marline:

1. Split the lines into two and crutch them as in figure 39.
2. Take strand I over and right round the standing parts.
3. Take strand III under and right round the standing parts.
4. Half knot I and III where they meet on top of the crutch.

Note: This knot is designed to free more easily than other knots for loosely twisted lines.

Square Knot

Use the square knot to tie two ropes of equal size together so they will not slip.

### Steps:
1. Cross one rope over the other, forming an X.
2. Pass the right end under the left rope and up through the loop formed by the left rope.
3. Pull both ends tight to complete the knot.
4. Repeat the process in the opposite direction (left-over-right) for the second crossing.

Important Notes:
• The square knot will not hold if the ropes are wet or of different sizes.
• It tightens under strain but can be untied by grasping the ends of the two bights and pulling the knot apart.
• It makes no difference whether the first crossing is tied left-over-right or right-over-left as long as the second crossing is tied opposite to the first crossing.

Procedure:

1. Decide where you want to cut the rope.
2. Put a stout yarn whipping on either side of that point. _This is essential_ for all wire ropes except those with a pre-formed lay. If you skip this step, the strands will fly apart after cutting and cannot be properly re-laid.
3. Use a hammer and cold chisel to cut the rope; scissors and knives are ineffective for this task.
4. Lay the rope on a solid foundation of metal or stone (wood is too soft).
5. Flatten the surface between the whippings with a few sharp blows from the edge of the hammer.
6. Hammer the cold chisel through the flattened part to obtain a firm, even cut.

Notes:
• Always use proper tools and techniques to avoid damaging the rope or causing injury.
• Ensure that the cutting surface is stable and secure.

Procedure:

1. To estimate the breaking strength of flexible steel wire rope, use the following formula:
- Square the circumference of the rope (in inches).
- Multiply the result by 2.
- The answer is the approximate breaking strength in tons.

Notes:
• This is a rough and ready rule for quick estimation purposes only.
• For precise measurements, always refer to manufacturer specifications or consult an expert.

Procedure:

1. Ensure that the sheaves of blocks used with wire ropes are smooth and not too rough-surfaced.
2. Use emery paper to smooth any rough surfaces on the sheaves.
3. Always use adequately sized blocks for the rope being used.
4. Refer to the table provided in the text for the minimum size of block required for different wire ropes.

Notes:
• Using improperly sized or rough-surfaced blocks can damage the galvanized coating on steel wires and reduce the lifespan of the rope.
• Proper maintenance of sheaves and blocks is essential to prevent premature wear and breakage.

Procedure:

1. Use the table provided in the text to determine the smallest size of rope required for a particular load.
2. The table is based on the principle that no rope should be used under a strain equal to more than half its breaking strength.
3. The weights given are for 100 feet of rope and vary depending on the type of rope used.

Notes:
• Always choose a rope with sufficient strength to handle the expected load safely.
• Consider both the weight and strength characteristics when selecting a rope.

Procedure:

1. Familiarize yourself with the construction of wire ropes as described in the text.
2. Understand that different types of wire ropes (e.g., 6/19/1, 6/24/7, 6/37/1) have varying numbers of wires per strand and core configurations.
3. Note that some ropes have seven-fibre cores inside each strand as well as a central core in the rope itself.
4. Be aware that two standards exist for certain types of wire rope (e.g., 6/19/1, 6/24/7, and 6/37/1), with figures quoted typically representing the lower breaking strength standard.

Notes:
• Understanding the construction helps in selecting the appropriate type of rope for a given application.
• Always consult manufacturer specifications to ensure compatibility with your intended use.

Procedure:

1. Consider using modern plastic-covered wire ropes as an alternative to oiling or galvanizing.
2. These ropes are extremely difficult to splice and require factory fittings if eyes or other attachments are needed.
3. Factory-installed fittings will be gauged precisely to the rope, creating a seal with greater strength than any splice.

Notes:
• Plastic-covered ropes offer excellent protection but limit splicing capabilities.
• If you need custom fittings, ensure that the factory is experienced in working with plastic-coated wire ropes.

Procedure:

1. Oil wire ropes occasionally to lubricate and protect the strands.
2. The type of dressing applied should depend on how the rope was treated during manufacture; consult the manufacturer or supplier for recommendations.
3. Galvanized ropes do not need oiling as much as non-galvanized ones, but they will last longer if oiled.
4. Avoid using oil on yachts' rigging to prevent unsightly stains on sails and other fabric surfaces.
5. If storing a boat for the winter, apply a thin coating of Vaseline to all wire ropes. This can be easily wiped off in the spring.
6. For a more permanent solution, clean the ropes thoroughly and apply a coat of marine varnish.

Notes:
• Oiling helps extend the life of wire ropes by reducing friction and corrosion.
• Marine varnish provides long-term protection but may require periodic reapplication.

Avoiding Damage to Ropes During Use

1. Avoid sharp corners and edges: Try to avoid 'nips' in the lead of a rope, i.e., taking it round sharp corners or over sharp edges.
- These may not cut the inside strands but can unduly stretch and weaken the outside strands.

2. Use appropriate pulleys or blocks: When using a rope through a block or pulley, ensure that the latter is large enough to take the rope comfortably.

3. Protect ropes from friction: Where a rope is liable to be constantly rubbing against something else while in use, protect it with chafing gear (see Chapter 7) or worm, parcel and serve it (see below).

Drying and Storing Ropes Properly

1. Dry the rope before stowing: If necessary, ensure the rope is dry before storing it.

2. Account for swelling or shrinking when wet: Remember that a rope may shrink or swell when wet.
- Loosen tent guy ropes if rain or heavy dew is expected at night to prevent them from becoming too taut and weakened or broken.

Inspecting Ropes for Damage and Rotting

1. Periodically inspect the rope: Twist open a rope's strands to look for signs of rotting in the heart.
- A rope is rotting if its fibres become soft and brittle or if its heart appears charred.
- Rust-coloured fibres are a warning sign in manila and hemp.
- An all-over greyish tinge is a warning sign in coir rope.

Maintaining Rope Strength Through Friction and Repair

1. Friction between fibres is crucial for strength: The strength of a rope depends ultimately on the friction between its fibres.

2. Repair damaged sections: If any part becomes frayed or rotten, cut it out and splice the sound parts together again (see Chapter 5).

3. Avoid weaknesses from fraying or unlaid strands: Frayed yarns and unlaid strands are weaknesses, so never allow the end of a rope to become unravelled.
- Either whip it, backsplice it, or point it.

Properly Coiling and Storing Ropes to Prevent Kinks

1. Coil the rope correctly: Always coil loose ends or the whole rope when not in use, and hang it up or store it neatly on a shelf, deck, or ground.
- A right-handed rope should be coiled clockwise, and a left-handed rope anticlockwise.

2. Break open a new coil of rope:
- Read the instructions on the label if available.
- If no instructions are present, lay the coil so that you can lead off the end you have decided to start with (either the inside or the outside) anti-clockwise.
- Leading it off in the opposite direction will cause kinks.

3. Remove kinks using thoroughfooting: If kinks occur:
- Coil the rope down anti-clockwise.
- Pass the end through the centre of the coil.
- Pull it from under the coil and coil down again.
- Repeat this process (thoroughfooting) two or three times.

4. Alternative method for removing kinks: If you have a boat, pay the rope out astern while under way, tow it for a while to remove the kinks, then haul it in and coil it correctly.

Rotating and Reversing Rope Usage to Maintain Strength

1. Rotate the rope periodically: Where a rope is in constant use over a long period, endeavour to vary the points where it passes through blocks or other equipment.
- This prevents weak spots from forming.

2. Turn the rope end to end occasionally: If possible, turn a rope in use end to end so that all stresses are reversed.

To make a Bag or Beggarman's Knot (a more secure alternative to the Bottle Knot):
1. Make two loops in the middle of the rope as in figure 74a.
2. Partially cross the right-hand loop in front of the left-hand (Fig. 74b).
3. Pull the left-hand loop half through the right-hand to make figure 74c.
4. Holding the ends I and II firmly with one hand, pass the other hand down through the space 'A' to grip 'B' and pull it through, at the same time allowing the loop 'C' to drop down the back of the knot (Fig. 74d).
5. Haul taut, at the same time working open the centre space which will go over the bottle, and knot or splice the loose ends to make a second carrying loop.

To turn a continuous Bale Sling into a carrying sling for an object such as a bottle:
1. Form a loop on the sling as in figure 73a.
2. Take bight I under II and bight III over IV (Fig. 73b). This produces a centre loop to slip over the neck of the bottle and two side loops as carrying handles.

To shorten a sling:
(a) Throw back a bight to make it the required length and twist the two small bights thus formed into a catspaw (Fig. 29) or
(b) Proceed as described above for hoisting with a Bale Sling but before hooking into the top bight, divide this into two smaller bights and half, or even reef, knot them. (Figure 68 shows them halfknotted.) Then hook into the two small bights left protruding.

To sling a cask, barrel, drum or other cylindrical object using a Bale sling:
1. Place the cask on its side (bung up if it has one and contains liquid).
2. Pass the sling underneath both ends.
3. Bring the bights up over the cask and pass one through the other, making sure that they cross in line with the bung.
4. Hook into the bight that has passed through its partner.

(A visit to a newspaper office might provide a fine demonstration of this method, for the men who unload the massive rolls of newsprint are skilled users of a Bale Sling.) (Fig. 65).

If a cylindrical object has to be slung in an upright position, e.g. a laden drum or cask without a lid:
1. Lay the rope down and stand the cask, head up, fairly centred on its middle.
2. Bring the rope's ends up and half knot them on top of the cask.
3. Open this knot out sideways and place the bights thus formed one on either side of the cask.
4. Reef knot the ends to make a loop for the hook (Fig. 67).

The safest way to sling a plank horizontally, as a stage on which a man can stand:
1. Take two turns round the plank, the second being nearer to its end.
2. Lay the standing part between them (Fig. 75a).
3. Lift turn I over the standing part and turn II and loop it over the end of the plank (Fig. 75b).
4. Bring the standing part and loose end up and secure with a bowline (Fig. 75c).

Purpose: To create an attractive and functional covering using thin or thick strands or strips of cloth.

Materials Required:
• Even number of strands (can be single, double, triple, etc.)
• Twine or small cordage

Steps:
1. Prepare Strands: Use an even number of strands—like in Round Sennit—which may consist of one, two, three, or more individual parts.
2. Middle Strands Around Object: Middle the strands around the rope or cylindrical object to be covered (e.g., a telescope).
3. Weave Pattern: Weave the strands in and out consistently across the surface of the object, ensuring that the pattern repeats itself evenly for an attractive finish.

Notes: This method is particularly popular on telescopes and is suitable for any cylindrical object or rope end.

Purpose: To provide additional protection and decorative detail to a rope or object.

Materials Required:
• Soft laid material (e.g., thrum)
• Twine

Steps:
1. Attach Strands: Stopper the strands of soft material to the rope, ring, or whatever needs covering.
2. Form Half Hitches: With each strand in succession, form two Half Hitches—one towards and one away from the starting point—and continue alternating directions as shown in figure 99b.
3. Alternate Strands: Always take the strand that is farthest back to ensure even coverage.

Notes: This method can be used for both functional protection and decorative purposes, especially on objects like the Spindle Eye.

Purpose: To create a soft and yielding material to protect ropes or wires from chafing against softer surfaces.

Materials Required:
• Small cordage
• A piece of wood (to act as a spreader)

Steps:
1. Seize the Ends: Take a long piece of small cordage and seize together its ends, then stretch it out doubled.
2. Insert Spreader: Insert a piece of wood between the two parts to keep them apart and maintain tension.
3. Add Thrums: Middle a thrum (a soft laid material) across the two lines and pull its end up between them.
4. Fill with Thrums: Continue adding thrums along the length of the cordage, attaching each one as described in step 3.

Notes: This method is ancient but effective for protecting ropes from friction against softer surfaces like sails.

Purpose: To provide a neat and decorative covering to cylindrical objects or rope ends.

Materials Required:
• Twine (preferably sailmaker's twine)
• Sailmaker's needle with leather palm (optional)

Steps:
1. Stop One End of Twine: Secure one end of the twine on the object to be covered (e.g., the heart of a pointed rope).
2. Make Half Hitches: With the other end, make a series of Half Hitches around the last turn of the stopping as shown in figure 101.
3. Add Rows: Continue adding rows of Half Hitches, making each hitch through the bight of the Half Hitch above it in the preceding row until the object is fully covered.

Notes: For a more decorative effect, start with a fancy knot (e.g., Turk's Head) before beginning the Half Hitches. Use a needle to pass the twine tightly through tautly-hitched bights for a neater finish.

Purpose: To protect the end of a rope in a neat and secure manner.

Materials Required:
• Twine or small cordage
• Scissors or knife
• Leather palm (optional)

Steps:
1. Apply Stopper: Put a stop on the rope at a distance from its end equal to three times its circumference.
2. Unlay Rope: Unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the strands.
3. Split Yarns: Split a number of outside yarns and make an even number of nettles (small loops or tucks).
4. Stop Nettles Back: Stop these nettles back on the standing part of the rope.
5. Scrape and Marl: Scrape the remaining yarns down to a tapering heart and marl them tightly with twine.
6. Alternate Nettles: Divide the nettles, laying every alternate one along the heart while allowing others to drop down away from it.
7. Bind with Twine: At the point where they divide into those going up and those down, bind on three turns of twine and take a hitch with the last turn.
8. Reverse Nettles: Reverse the nettles so that those previously up now come down and vice versa.
9. Continue Binding: Take three more turns of twine and hitch as described in step 7, repeating until the point reaches the desired length.
10. Finish with Eye: Finish by working a small eye in the end using nettles and yarns marled over with twine.

Notes: The rope can be tapered to form a truncated cone instead of a pointed tip. Variations such as spiral effects or decorative knots (e.g., Turk's Head, Footrope Knot) may also be used.

Purpose: To provide a decorative and functional covering using multiple strands.

Materials Required:
• Small cord or twine (multiple strands)

Steps:
1. Middle Hitching Strands: With the end of one strand—called the warp—middle a number of hitching strands around the rope or object to be covered.
2. Wrap Warp Around: Take the warp round again, a short distance below its first circuit, and with each of the hitching strands make a round turn around it.
3. Repeat Process: Continue repeating step 2 until the covering reaches the desired length.

Notes: The pattern can be varied by how the hitching strands are wrapped around the warp. For example, they may go outside, under, behind, over and to the right of their standing part or in other consistent configurations.

Procedure for Creating a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

1. Wrap the rope around the object you want to secure, ensuring it is tight and even.
2. Make one full turn around the object, keeping the tension consistent throughout.
3. Pass the free end of the rope over the standing part and tie a half hitch by looping it around the standing part and pulling it through the loop.
4. Repeat the process to create a second half hitch, ensuring that both hitches are tight and secure.
5. Tighten the entire knot thoroughly to ensure it is secure and will not slip.
6. Trim any excess rope if necessary for neatness and safety.

Details:
• A round turn and two half hitches is a strong and reliable knot used in various applications, including securing objects or joining ropes together.
• Use a strong, durable rope suitable for the load being secured.
• Ensure that the knot is tied correctly to avoid failure under load.

Procedure for Creating a Stopper Hitch

1. Take the end of the rope and pass it through the loop formed by the standing part of the rope.
2. Tie an overhand knot around the standing part, ensuring that it is tight and secure.
3. Pull the free end of the rope through the loop to form a stopper hitch.
4. Adjust the tension so that the hitch is snug but not overly tight, allowing for some flexibility if needed.
5. Check the hitch to ensure it is properly formed and will hold securely under load.

Details:
• A stopper hitch is used to prevent a rope from slipping through a hole or opening.
• It is commonly used in sailing, climbing, and general rope work to secure lines or prevent them from running out of a block or pulley.
• Ensure that the hitch is tied correctly to avoid failure under load.

To make a Turk's Head using studs:
1. At either end of the area to be covered, drive in one stud for each of the turns it is desired to incorporate into the Turk's Head. The studs should be equally spaced and each should have its 'opposite number' at the other end of the knot and on the opposite side of the object (see figure 108).
2. Start at any stud at the left-hand end and make spiral turns to reach its 'opposite number' stud at the other end.
3. Take the rope round this stud and make a similar number of spiral turns back towards the start but, if you are using an uneven number of studs at either end, make this return spiral pass alternately over and under the strands of the first spiral where it crosses them (Fig. 108). If you have an even number of studs at either end, make a succession of 'over' crossings.
4. Take the rope past the 'starting' stud and round the one beyond it.
5. Make the same number of spiral turns as previously to the next 'opposite number' stud at the other end of the knot, passing *over* where the preceding turn passed under, and *under* where it passed over.
6. Take the rope round the 'opposite number' stud, as in stage 3, and make spiral turns back to the start, again passing over or under in contrast to the position of the preceding turn.
7. Continue in this fashion from one end of the knot to the other until all the studs have been used, when the first stage will have been completed.
8. Follow round once, twice or more often to complete the covering.

Using a Former to make a Turk's Head:
1. On the planking, set up two parallel rows of six or seven pegs or pins each as in figure 109a. (They have to be withdrawn later, so do not drive them in too tightly.)
2. Lash the former to the object to be covered very securely, with the rows of pins at right angles to its axis as in figure 109a.
3. Lay the standing end of the cord in front of Left Hand No. 1 pin and take the working end round Right Hand No. 1 and then across diagonally between the two rows of pins.
4. Bring the working end round under to the near side and tuck it under and over to Left Hand No. 1 pin.
5. Continue to pass the working end from left to right and then round under to the near side, i.e. from Left Hand No. 2 to Right Hand No. 3 to Left Hand No. 3 to Right Hand No. 4, etc., passing it either over or under each strand it crosses in the opposite way to that in which the previous turn crossed that strand.
6. Generally this means that the working end simply goes under and over successive strands but occasionally you will find that you have to make two successive 'overs' to fit in with the lay of the previous turn.
7. When the working end has reached the last left-hand pin as in figure 109d, the knot is complete, ready for doubling.
8. The pins are now removed, the lashings which hold the 'former' to the object are cut, and the 'former' is slid out, leaving the knot loosely, but correctly woven, round the object.
9. All that remains is to double or treble it if desired and to work it tight.

Purpose: The fisherman’s bend is an excellent knot for attaching a rope to a light anchor, a ring, or a rectangular piece of stone. It can also be used to fasten a rope or cable to a ring or post and in situations where there will be slackening and tightening motion in the rope.

Steps:
1. Pass the end of the rope through the ring or object you want to attach it to.
2. Bring the working end of the rope up through the loop formed by the standing part of the rope.
3. Make a half hitch around the standing part of the rope, pulling it tight.
4. Repeat step 3 on the other side of the standing part to form a second half hitch.
5. Pull both ends of the rope to tighten the knot completely.

Notes:
• Ensure that the knot is snug and secure around the object.
• The fisherman’s bend is particularly useful in situations where the load may shift or move, as it maintains its grip under tension.

Steps to fit a strop to a block:

1. Make a grommet of rope or wire long enough to pass round the block and the thimble which is to be secured to its crown (or possibly, round a spar to which the block is to be semi-permanently secured).
2. Worm, parcel, and serve the grommet. To make a really first-class job of it, sew on tightly a leather jacket over the serving.
3. Place the block and thimble inside the strop and secure the whole by both ends, either vertically or horizontally, so that everything is held in position.
4. Put a tight Round Seizing on the two parts of the strop between the thimble (or spar) and the block.

A Double Whip tackle provides double the mechanical advantage of a Single Whip:

1. Configuration: The rope is rove through two fixed blocks, with one end as the hauling part and the other as the standing end secured to the load.
2. Power gain: This tackle doubles the lifting or hauling power compared to the Single Whip.
3. Use case: Ideal for situations where you need increased mechanical advantage without complex setups.

Notes:
• The Double Whip is useful in scenarios requiring more force than a Single Whip can provide, but less complexity than higher-order tackles.
• Ensure that both blocks are securely fixed and capable of handling the load being applied.

A Gun Tackle is composed of two single blocks:

1. Configuration: One block is fixed (the fixed block) and the other moves with the load (the moving block).
2. Rope setup: The standing end of the rope is secured to the moving block, and the rope passes through both blocks.
3. Power gain: This tackle provides a mechanical advantage based on the number of parts of rope at the moving block.

Notes:
• A Gun Tackle typically offers a 2:1 or 3:1 mechanical advantage depending on how it is rigged.
• The fixed block should be strong enough to handle the full load, while the moving block must move freely with the load.
• This tackle is commonly used in maritime and heavy lifting applications.

Blocks serve two primary functions:

1. Alter the direction of a rope: This allows the rope to be led to a winch or another location where it can be more easily hauled.
2. Form tackles (purchases): When combined with other blocks, they increase the lifting or hauling power of your arm, capstan, winch, windlass, etc.

Key Points:
• In all tackles except the Single Whip, at least one block moves with the load.
• The power ratio of any tackle is determined by the number of parts of rope at the moving block.
• A part of rope is counted wherever it enters or leaves a block. If the standing end of the rope is secured to the moving block, that also counts as one part.

Parts of a block include:

1. Shell: The outside case.
2. Sheave: The grooved wheel over which the rope travels. Made of phosphor bronze, iron, or lignum vitae (a self-lubricating, very hard wood). _Roller sheaves_ have metal rollers fitted to the bush that work around the sheave pin. Some blocks use ball bearings for the same purpose.
3. Bush: The metal centre of the sheave through which the pin passes.
4. Sheave Pin: The axle on which the sheave revolves. A steel pin that passes through the shell and should be punched out with a spike and greased with blacklead and tallow or solid Vaseline from time to time.
5. Crown: The top of the block.
6. Tail: The bottom of the block.
7. Swallow: The opening between the cheeks of the shell through which the rope passes.
8. Cheeks: The sides of the shell on each side of the swallow.
9. Score: A groove on the outside of a wooden block to take a rope strop, deeper at the tail than at the crown. Some blocks have two scores for a double strop. _Iron Bound Blocks_ are fitted with a heavy iron strop instead of one of rope or wire. An Internal Iron Bound Block has a removable forked shape iron strop inserted down through either side of the shell, often with one fork longer than the other so that it projects as a lug to which the standing end of the tackle may be shackled.

Other types of blocks:
• Clump Blocks: Very round, squat blocks cut from a single piece of wood (now somewhat out of date).
• Swivel Blocks: Fitted with a swivel hook or eye at the crown so that they may slew if necessary without twisting the ropes rove through them.
• Snatch Block: Has a portion of the shell near the crown cut away on one side and covered with a hinged clamp, kept in place with a split pin or spring. This allows the middle of a rope to be placed over the sheave without reeving the end through the swallow.
• Non-toppling Block: Used mainly on lifeboat falls. Its tail is heavier than its crown so that it always stays crown upwards.
• Tail Block: A common block with a tail of rope instead of an eye, hook, or shackle at the crown.
• Sister Blocks and Fiddle Blocks: Rarely found outside yachts. Both are double blocks with sheaves arranged vertically one over the other to save space. In a sister block, the sheaves are the same size; in a fiddle block, the upper is larger than the lower to prevent chafing between ropes.

To install a leading block for altering the direction of a rope:

1. Select an appropriate block: Choose a block that is suitable for the intended use and load capacity.
2. Secure the block: Fix the block in place using a shackle, hook, or other method to ensure it remains firmly attached during use.
3. Pass the rope through the block: Route the rope through the sheave of the block so that it can be led to a winch or another location where hauling is easier.
4. Ensure secure attachment: Make sure the block is fixed firmly enough to take the strain that will come on it (see Figure 111 for reference).

Notes:
• Leading blocks are often used in situations where space is limited, such as on ships or in confined areas.
• The block must be able to handle the full load and tension of the rope being used.
• Always inspect the block and its attachment points before use to ensure they are in good working condition.

Steps:
1. Unlay the rope for about 2 in.
2. With the strands pointing upwards, drop a loose loop of twine over one strand, bringing the ends back between the other two and making one end longer than the other (Fig. 3a).
3. Holding the loop and ends with your left hand, re-lay the rope with your right.
4. Bind the long end of twine against the lay of the rope into a tight whipping of the required length (Fig. 3b).
5. Pass the loop over the top of the strands it already encircles and haul on the short end to tighten it.
6. Pass the short end up the only hollow between the strands which has not already a portion of twine following it and reef knot it to the long end in the middle of the rope (Fig. 3c). Cut off.

Notes:
• This whipping on a four-stranded rope requires two loops, as in figure 3d. Each is later passed over the top of its own strand and loop I is hauled tight first by pulling on loop II.

Steps:
1. With the working end, bind over the non-working end against the lay of the rope, until you are four or five turns off its end.
2. Lay the working end of twine along the turns you have already put on and hold it in place with your thumb (Fig. 2a).
3. Put on four or five more turns over the working end (Fig. 2b).
4. Pull the working end through tightly and cut off so that no ends of twine are visible, both being hidden and held by the turns (Fig. 2c).

Procedure:

1. Prepare the rope: Identify the raw, cut end of the rope that needs to be whipped.
2. Wrap with small cord: Take a small cord and tightly wrap it around the end of the rope. Ensure the wrapping is tight enough to prevent any untwisting.
3. Secure the whipping: Tie off the end of the cord securely to keep the wrapping in place.
4. Repeat if necessary: If additional reinforcement is needed, apply a second whipping 1 or 2 inches away from the first one.
5. Cutting preparation: Before cutting a rope, apply two whippings on the rope 1 or 2 inches apart and make the cut between them. This will prevent the cut ends from untwisting immediately after they are cut.

Details:
• The whipping method is particularly satisfactory because there is very little increase in the size of the rope.
• The whipped end of a rope will still thread through blocks or other openings.
• This procedure should be used on all raw, cut ends of ropes to prevent untwisting.

Steps:
1. Bind strips of cloth, two or three inches wide, preferably of old, tarred canvas, round the rope with the lay so that each turn overlaps the edge of its predecessor.

Notes:
• For vertical ropes, always start from the bottom and work upwards.

Steps:
1. Use spunyarn bound tightly and closely round the rope against the lay.
2. It must be put on tightly and is therefore better done with a serving mallet (Fig. 4) than by hand; and also more easily by two people than by one, so that one person can pass the ball of spunyarn round whilst the other is actually putting on the turns with the mallet.
3. A serving should be finished off like a Common Whipping.

Remember:
• Worm and parcel with the lay but always serve the other way.

Procedure:

1. Take a full but loose round turn around the securing point.
2. Make a Half Hitch by passing the end of the rope around the standing part and through the round turn.
3. Back this with another Half Hitch, which does not pass through the round turn.
4. If desired, stop the end to the standing part for added security (Figure 16).

Notes:
• This hitch is preferred when securing a rope that will be exposed to water (e.g., bucket handles or anchor rings).
• It does not jam as easily under heavy strain or in wet conditions.
• The Fisherman's Bend provides reliable and secure fastening for wet environments.

Procedure:

1. Place your left thumb on the rope and take a round turn over it and the rope, coming up to the left of the standing part.
2. Take a second turn also coming up to the left but missing your thumb.
3. Take two more turns both coming up to the right of the standing part.
4. Finish by passing the end through the small bight left by your thumb and haul taut (Figure 19).

Notes:
• The Ossel Hitch is named after the ossels, short lengths of rope used by fishermen to join nets to headropes.
• It is a very reliable hitch, especially in applications involving heavy strain or wet conditions.
• This knot is commonly used on the backing of fishing nets.

Procedure:

1. Take one round turn on one side of the standing part.
2. Make a second round turn on the other side of the standing part.
3. Tuck the loose end through this second round turn and haul taut (Figure 17).

Notes:
• The Clove Hitch is easy to make and loosen after strain.
• It is particularly useful when the loose end needs to be kept free for other purposes.
• This hitch can be made quickly at the end or in the middle of a rope by slipping on two loops.

Procedure:

1. Take one round turn on one side of the standing part.
2. Take a second round turn on the other side but in the opposite direction.
3. Pass the end outside the second turn and through the first one (Figure 18).

Notes:
• This is a variation of the Clove Hitch known as the Stunsail Halyard Bend.
• It provides a secure hitch with a slightly different configuration than the standard Clove Hitch.
• Useful in applications where a variation on the Clove Hitch is needed.

Materials Needed:
• Rope
• Thimble (optional)

Steps:
Follow the same procedure as for making a simple eye splice, but instead of putting in a second tuck, finish with a wall knot. The exact method for creating the wall knot is not detailed in the text, so further reference may be required.

Materials Needed:
• Rope
• Heart Thimble or Lanyard Thimble (depending on the application)

Steps:
1. Unlay the rope for a distance equal to three times its circumference.
2. Bend the still laid-up end round the thimble to make an eye with the fork of the strands just reaching the standing part, and with the middle and left-hand unlaid strands on top of it (see Fig. 54a).
3. Lightly stop the thimble to the crown of the eye.
4. Tuck the middle unlaid strand from right to left under the strand on which it rests (see Fig. 54b).
5. Tuck the left-hand unlaid strand from right to left over the strand under which the first tuck was made and under the next one (see Fig. 54c).
6. Turn the rope over to the left so that the right-hand unlaid strand is now on top of it.
7. Tuck this strand from right to left under the only strand under which a tuck has not already been made (see Fig. 54d). This completes the first set of tucks.
8. Tuck each unlaid strand again, over one strand and under one.

Finishing Options:
• Option A: Divide the yarns of each strand into two and whip together each pair of adjacent halves from neighboring strands (three pairs all told).
• Option B: Scrape or cut off lengthwise half of each strand and tuck again, then halve and tuck once more. These 'halftucks' taper the splice to a neat finish which may be served if desired.

Materials Needed:
• Rope
• Thimble (optional)
• Nettles or yarns for worming and collaring

Steps:
1. Carry out stages 1 to 7 of a simple eye splice.
2. Separate four yarns from each strand, making twelve all told in a three-stranded rope and sixteen in a four-stranded rope.
3. Keep these separated yarns out of the way while working with the remainder of the strands.
4. Carry out stage 8 plus one extra 'half-tuck'.
5. Lay up the separated yarns into two-yarn nettles.
6. Use one nettle from each yarn, worm to the end of the splice, and finish by tucking each nettle under a different strand (see Fig. 55a).
7. With the two sets of nettles—those left at the top and those protruding from under a strand at the bottom—fashion Footrope Knots (see Fig. 55b).

Purpose: The double bowline forms three nonslipping loops. Use this knot to sling a man. One loop supports his back, while the remaining two support his legs.

Procedure:
1. Create three nonslipping loops in the rope (see Figure 2-12, page 2-10).
2. Pass a notched board through the two leg-supporting loops to form a comfortable seat known as a boatswain’s chair.
3. This chair is discussed in the scaffolding section of this manual (see Chapter 6).

Purpose: The French bowline is used as a sling to lift injured men and can be useful when working alone with hands free.

Procedure:
1. Tie the French bowline (see Figure 2-16, page 2-12).
2. Use one loop as a seat and the other loop around the body under the arms of an injured man.
3. The injured man’s weight keeps the two loops tight so that he cannot fall out.
4. It is particularly useful for lifting unconscious men or when you need your hands free.
5. Adjust the size of the loops as needed.

Purpose: The running bowline forms a strong running loop. It is useful for tying an eye around an object that cannot be safely reached.

Procedure:
1. Create a strong running loop in the rope (see Figure 2-13, page 2-10).
2. Use it to tie a handline around an object at a point you cannot reach, such as the end of a limb.

Purpose: The Spanish bowline can be tied at any point in a rope and is useful for rescue work or lifting round objects.

Procedure:
1. Tie the Spanish bowline at any point in a rope, either where the line is double or at an end that has been doubled back (see Figure 2-15, page 2-12).
2. Use it for rescue work or to give a twofold grip for lifting a pipe or other round objects in a sling.

### Tying the Bowline Knot

Materials Needed:
• One rope and an anchor.

Steps to Tie the Knot:
1. Bring the working end of the rope around the anchor, from right to left (as the climber faces the anchor).
2. Form an overhand loop in the standing part of the rope (on the climber’s right) toward the anchor.
3. Reach through the loop and pull up a bight.
4. Place the working end of the rope (on the climber’s left) through the bight, and bring it back onto itself. Now dress the knot down.
5. Form an overhand knot with the tail from the bight.

Checkpoints:
• The bight is locked into place by a loop.
• The short portion of the bight is on the inside and on the loop around the anchor (or inside the fixed loop).
• There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after tying the overhand safety.

Tying the Knot:

• STEP 1. Place 76 centimeters of rope over the top of the anchor. Hold the standing end in the left hand. With the right hand, reach under the horizontal anchor, grasp the working end, and bring it inward.

• STEP 2. Place the working end of the rope over the standing end (to form a loop). Hold the loop in the left hand. Place the working end over the anchor from 20 to 25 centimeters to the left of the loop.

• STEP 3. With the right hand, reach down to the left hand side of the loop under the anchor. Grasp the working end of the rope. Bring the working end up and outward.

• STEP 4. Dress down the knot.

Checkpoints:

• The knot has two round turns around the anchor with a diagonal locking bar.

• The locking bar is facing 90 degrees from the direction of pull.

• The ends exit 180 degrees from each other.

• The knot has more than a 4-inch pigtail remaining.

Tying the Knot:

• STEP 1. Use a length of rope long enough to go around the anchor, leaving enough rope to work with.

• STEP 2. Tie a figure-eight knot in the standing part of the rope, leaving enough rope to go around the anchor. To tie a figure-eight knot form a loop in the rope, wrap the working end around the standing part, and route the working end through the loop. The finished knot is dressed loosely.

• STEP 3. Take the working end around the anchor point.

• STEP 4. With the working end, insert the rope back through the loop of the knot in reverse.

• STEP 5. Keep the original figure eight as the outside rope and retrace the knot around the wrap and back to the long-standing part.

• STEP 6. Remove all unnecessary twists and crossovers; dress the knot down.

Checkpoints:

• A figure eight with a doubled rope running side by side, forming a fixed loop around a fixed object or harness.

• There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail.

Tying the Knot:

• STEP 1. Route the rope around the anchor from right to left and wrap down (must have two wraps in the rear of the anchor, and one in the front). Run the loop around the object to provide 360-degree contact, distributing the load over the anchor.

• STEP 2. Bring the working end of the rope left to right and over the standing part, forming a half hitch (first half hitch).

• STEP 3. Repeat STEP 2 (last half hitch has a 4 inch pigtail).

• STEP 4. Dress the knot down.

Checkpoints:

• A complete round turn should exist around the anchor with no crosses.

• Two half hitches should be held in place by a diagonal locking bar with no less than a 4-inch pigtail remaining.

Purpose: To secure a rope to a thole pin or other small piece of wood on a boat.

Steps:
1. Take the rope and pass it around the thole pin or other small piece of wood.
2. Form a loop by crossing the end of the rope over itself, creating a bight.
3. Pass the free end of the rope through the bight from one side to the other.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the hitch.

Details:
• This is quickly released when needed.
• Ideal for use on boats where quick release is necessary.

Purpose: To secure a rope to a spar.

Steps:
1. Take the rope and pass it around the spar, forming a loop.
2. Pass the free end of the rope through the loop from one side to the other.
3. Bring the free end up over the standing part of the rope and tie it into a simple knot with the standing part of the rope.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the hitch.

Details:
• This hitch, if pulled taut, will not slip up or down on a smooth surface.
• It is a useful start for lashings.

Purpose: To fasten a rope to another rope (or to a spar) on which there is already a strain.

Steps:
1. Take the rope that needs to be fastened and pass it through the main rope or spar.
2. Form a loop by crossing the end of the rope over itself, creating a bight.
3. Pass the free end of the rope through the bight from one side to the other.
4. Pull both ends tight to secure the hitch.

Details:
• When the hitch is pulled tight, the attached rope will not slip, and the tension on the main rope can be taken on the attached rope.
• Also useful for a climbing hitch.

To create a Herringbone Weave:

1. Lay six or eight long strands along the rope, etc., and seize them at either end of the space to be covered.
2. Skew them diagonally so that they run at an angle of 45 degrees to the run of the rope.
3. Tuck the lower ends up and to the right over and under until they reach the rim of the weave.
4. Tuck the upper ends down and to the left similarly. This will make the right-going diagonals double while those to the left have remained single (as in figure 105a).
5. Continue tucking both sets of ends: when at the top, down and to the left; when at the bottom, up and to the right, over and under until the weave is completed as in figure 105b.
6. To finish off:
- Scatter the ends well.
- Tuck them out of sight after trimming them.
- Cut the seizings and draw out the weave evenly.

Variations:
• Can be achieved by taking ends over two and under two, over two and under three, and so on (but be consistent!).

To create an interlocking spiral knot:

1. Start by making two spirals that interlock.
2. Ensure the direction of each spiral is opposite to the other (one clockwise, one counterclockwise).
3. Continue following round until the 'mouse' is closely covered (as shown in figure 104c).
4. The knot forms a cross-pointing pattern and can be made with three or more cords if desired.
5. Cut off the whippings once the spirals are fully interlocked.

Procedure for Understanding Suture Knot Security and Material Properties:

1. Recognize suture types: Understand the difference between multifilament and monofilament sutures.
- Multifilament sutures are generally easier to handle and tie due to their high coefficient of friction, which helps maintain knot security.
- Monofilament sutures have a lower coefficient of friction, making them more prone to loosening after tying. They also possess the property of *memory*, meaning they may not lie flat and can return to a shape set during extrusion or packaging.
2. Understand extensibility: Recognize that suture materials will stretch slightly during knot tying and then recover. This stretching provides feedback to the surgeon about when the knot is snug.
3. Proper knot placement: Ensure that knots are tied with proper technique, as speed may lead to improper placement of strands.
4. Account for variability: Be aware that variation in knot security can occur between different surgeons and even between knots tied by the same individual on different occasions.
5. Use appropriate tools: Consider using a suture delivery system like the RELAY* system, which minimizes package memory due to its unique design.

Notes:
• Knots must be properly placed to ensure security in medical applications.
• The *hand* of the suture refers to how it feels in the surgeon's hands and its ability to pass through tissue smoothly and tie down effectively.
• Proper knotting technique is essential for all synthetic materials, as they require specific methods due to their properties.

### General Guidelines for Tying Fishing Knots

Materials Needed:
• Fishing line of appropriate test strength
• Hook or lure with the point cut off or buried into a cork for practice
• Nail clipper (for trimming knots)

Steps:
1. Choose the right knot based on the type of fishing and the line being used.
2. Practice tying knots using a length of fishing line, a hook with the point cut off or buried into a cork, until you can tie each knot correctly.
3. Wet knots with saliva as you pull them tight to prevent damage to the line and allow the knot to pull tight properly.
4. Pull knots tight to prevent slippage, ensuring that all ends are pulled up when tightening the knot (this may be only the standing end and tag end or three or four ends depending on the knot).
5. Trim knots closely with a nail clipper after pulling them tight. A good knot, pulled tight, will not come loose. Close trimming prevents the knot from catching snags or weeds.
6. Do not burn the tag end – heat damages the line and knot.

Notes:
• The tag end (sometimes called the working end) is the end of the line used to tie the knot, while the standing end is that part of the line coming from your fishing reel.
• Leave a foot or more of the tag end of line for tying knots so that you can tie them properly.
• Knots are rarely as strong as the line. Knot strength is often expressed in percent, such as the percentage of the strength of the line at which the knot (weaker than the line) will break. As an example, a knot testing 90 percent will break at nine pounds of tension in a line testing ten-pounds.

### How to Tie the Non-Slip Loop Knot

Materials Needed:
• Fishing line (best with larger lines)
• Hook or lure with the point cut off or buried into a cork for practice

Steps:
1. Pass the tag end of the line through the eye of the hook or lure.
2. Make several turns of the tag end around the standing end part of the line, similar to tying an Improved Clinch Knot.
3. Run the tag end back through the formed loop (this is the final tuck that creates a fixed loop).
4. Pull up all ends to tighten the knot, ensuring that the knot is pulled tight to prevent slippage.
5. Trim the tag end closely with a nail clipper, leaving no loose ends that could catch on snags or weeds.
6. Wet the knot with saliva as you pull it tight to prevent damage to the line and allow the knot to pull tight properly.

Notes:
• This knot creates a fixed loop, allowing the hook or lure to move freely while maintaining a secure connection.
• It is best used with larger lines where a tight knot such as the Improved Clinch can impede the movement of the hook/bait or lure.

### How to Tie the Palomar Knot

Materials Needed:
• Fishing line (up to and over 20 pound test)
• Hook or lure with the point cut off or buried into a cork for practice

Steps:
1. Double the fishing line, creating a loop.
2. Pass the doubled line through the eye of the hook or lure.
3. Tie an overhand knot around the hook or lure with the doubled line.
4. Pull the tag end through the loop formed by the overhand knot to create a second loop.
5. Tighten the knot by pulling both ends of the line in opposite directions, ensuring that the knot is pulled tight to prevent slippage.
6. Trim the tag end closely with a nail clipper, leaving no loose ends that could catch on snags or weeds.
7. Wet the knot with saliva as you pull it tight to prevent damage to the line and allow the knot to pull tight properly.

Notes:
• This knot tests at over 95 percent of the line strength, making it a strong choice for lines up to and over 20 pound test.
• It is a favorite knot of many anglers due to its high strength and reliability.
• However, because it is run doubled through the lure or hook eye, it may tangle easier than other knots.

Hemp is a traditional material for ropemaking, though now rarely used commercially. It has the following characteristics:

• Strength: The highest grade of hemp rope is more than one and a half times as strong as the finest manila.
• Durability: Hemp rope lasts well and loses little, if any, strength when lightly tarred.
• Handling: It is easy to handle and does not swell when wet.
• Appearance: New hemp rope should be a soft golden colour throughout, unadulterated with whitish jute.

Note: Hemp is still produced for specialized uses such as yachting and climbing.

Steel is used in wire ropes for specialized applications. It differs significantly from hempen and synthetic ropes in structure and handling. Steel wire rope is treated separately in Part Two of this book due to its unique construction and properties.

Understanding Rope-Making Materials

Ropes have been made from various materials throughout history, with the following being the most commonly encountered today:

• Natural Fibres: These include hemp, cotton, and sisal. They are strong, flexible, and have been used for centuries in rope-making.
• Synthetic Fibres: Modern ropes often use synthetic materials such as nylon, polyester, polypropylene, and aramid fibres (e.g., Kevlar). These materials offer advantages like high strength-to-weight ratios, resistance to rot and UV degradation, and improved durability under various conditions.
• Metallic Materials: Wire rope is made from steel wires that are twisted together. It is extremely strong and used in heavy-duty applications such as lifting equipment, suspension bridges, and marine rigging.

Each material has its own characteristics and is suited to different uses. Understanding these differences will help you choose the right type of rope for your specific needs.

Purpose: To bind two ropes together where the strain is equal and light.

Materials Required:
• Seizing cord (small, strong cord)
• Scissors or knife (to cut the cord)

Steps:
1. Make a small eye or loop in the end of the seizing cord.
2. Take a turn with the end of the cord round both ropes and pass it through its own eye, then heave taut.
3. Take as many more turns (at least seven) around both ropes, heaving each taut as made.
4. Pass the end of the cord down inside the turns, between the ropes, and bring it up through the eye at the other end of the seizing.
5. Take one complete frapping turn lengthwise between the ropes around the seizing.
6. Take two more frapping turns in such a way that they form a Clove Hitch.
7. Work an Overhand Knot tight up against the Clove Hitch to stop the end from drawing through, or use a Crown or Wall Knot for a neater finish.
8. Cut off the excess cord (or tie it securely if not cutting).

Notes:
• This method is suitable only when both ropes are under equal and light strain.
• Ensure that all turns are tight and evenly spaced.

Purpose: To bind two ropes together where the strain is unequal.

Materials Required:
• Seizing cord (small, strong cord)
• Scissors or knife (to cut the cord)

Steps:
1. Start as for a Flat Seizing, with a turn around both ropes and reeve the end through the eye.
2. Instead of continuing with round turns, dip the end between the ropes and then figure-of-eight it around them a dozen or so times.
3. Dip the end under the last turn taken (see Figure 85a for reference) and haul all the turns taut.
4. Now put on tight, round riding turns, working back towards the eye, and after the last one, again dip the end between the ropes (see Figure 85b for reference).
5. Finish off as for a Flat Seizing with a frapping turn and Clove Hitch.

Notes:
• This method is suitable only when the strain on both ropes is unequal.
• Ensure that all turns are tight and evenly spaced.

Purpose: To bring two taut ropes close together when manual effort is insufficient.

Materials Required:
• A horizontal bar
• Strong twine (or cord)
• Marline-spike

Steps:
1. Lay a bar horizontally across in front of the ropes.
2. Take a full turn with the middle of a length of strong twine around both ropes.
3. Dog each end of the twine back round its own part to form small eyes.
4. Insert a marline-spike into each 'dogged' eye and lever them round the bar until the ropes are tightly together (see Figure 82 for reference).

Notes:
• Greasing the middle of the twine allows it to slide more easily around the ropes and bar.
• This method is especially useful when there is not enough room for a splice.

Materials Needed:
• Warp rope
• Weft rope
• A flat, narrow piece of wood called a 'sword'

Steps:
1. Lay two pieces of wood across the warp and connect 'A' to every odd-numbered strand and 'B' to every even-numbered.
2. Lift up 'A'. This also lifts every alternate strand.
3. In the space between these and the strands not lifted, pass a second rope, called the weft, across.
4. Drop 'A' and lift 'B'. This also lifts the other set of alternate strands.
5. Pass the weft back in the space between the two sets of strands.
6. Continue in this fashion until you reach the other end of the warp. Each time the weft is passed, it must be pressed home firmly with the sword.
7. Once the technique has been mastered, sword matting can be quickly made.

Materials Needed:
• Rope

Steps:
1. Lay the rope as shown in figure 87# in three loops.
2. Carry end I over end II, under the bight 'A', over 'B', under 'C', over 'D', under 'E', over 'F', under 'G', over 'H', under itself and over 'A'. This forms figure Sib.
3. Now follow round either by taking I back along the path of II, passing over or under as it does, or by taking II back along the path of I.
4. The following round may be completed as many times as desired. (Figure 87c shows only once.)
5. Finish by leaving the ends under strands where they will not be seen.

Materials Required:
• Odd number of rope strands
• Whipping tool or thread for securing ends

Steps:
1. Divide the strands into two groups, one with one more strand than the other.
2. Bring the outside strand of the larger group across and add it to the smaller group. This makes the smaller group now the larger one.
3. Repeat step 2 ad infinitum. Continue this process until the sennit is fully formed as shown in figure 94 (illustration shows Common Sennit being made with three strands).

Materials Required:
• Odd number of rope strands
• Whipping tool or thread for securing ends

Steps:
1. Start with an odd number of strands and divide them into two groups, one with one more strand than the other (the right-hand group in the illustration).
2. Work the outside strand of the larger group over and under its companions until it becomes the inside strand of the other group. In the illustration, this goes from right to left.
3. What was the smaller group is now the larger, so take its outside strand over and under its companions until it becomes the inside strand of the other group.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 alternately. This process continues until the sennit is fully formed as shown in figure 93.

Materials Required:
• Even number of rope strands
• Whipping tool or thread for securing ends

Steps:
1. Whip the ends of the strands together. If making a round sennit end to a laid rope, divide the latter's strands into the required number and apply the whipping at the point where the sennit is to commence.
2. Cross each neighboring pair of strands, allowing the even-numbered ones to hang down and lifting the odd-numbered ones up out of the way.
3. Pass each even-numbered strand over the odd-numbered strand to its right. After doing this, hold the former up and allow the latter to drop down (see figure 90b).
4. Cross each odd-numbered strand over the even-numbered one to its left. Hold it up and allow the even-numbered to drop down.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 alternately. Continue this process until the sennit is formed as shown in figure 90c. This may sound complicated, but in practice, it becomes very simple.

Procedure:

1. Determine the weight of the object to be hoisted.
2. Add 10% of that weight for every sheave in the tackle (e.g., for a Gun Tackle, which has one sheave, add 10% of the load).
3. Multiply the total weight by the mechanical advantage of the tackle (for a Gun Tackle, this is double power).
4. Double the result to account for safety regulations.

Example:
• Load: 300 Ib.
• Add 10% for one sheave: 300 + 30 = 330 Ib.
• Multiply by mechanical advantage (2): 330 × 2 = 660 Ib.
• Double for safety: 660 × 2 = 1,320 Ib.

This is the minimum breaking strength of rope required.

Procedure:

1. Determine the breaking strength of the rope (e.g., 5,000 Ib. for 1-in. Nylon).
2. Multiply by the mechanical advantage of the tackle (for a Luff Tackle, this is triple power).
3. Subtract 10% of the total load for every sheave in the tackle.

Example:
• Rope breaking strength: 5,000 Ib.
• Multiply by mechanical advantage (3): 5,000 × 3 = 15,000 Ib.
• Subtract 10% per sheave (for a Luff Tackle with three sheaves): 15,000 - (15,000 × 3 × 0.1) = 13,500 Ib.

The safe working load is half of this value: 6,750 Ib.

Calculating the Strength of a Rope

The strength of a rope can be estimated using the following formula:

1. Strength Calculation:
- Multiply the circumference (in inches) by itself.
- Divide the product by 5 to get the number of tons the rope can safely sustain.

Example: For a rope with a 5-inch circumference:
• 5 X 5 = 25
• 25 ÷ 5 = 5 tons

2. Weight Calculation:
- Multiply the circumference (in inches) by itself.
- Multiply the result by the length of the rope in fathoms.
- Divide the product by 3.75 to get the weight in pounds.

Example: For a 5-inch rope, 50 fathoms long:
• 5 X 5 = 25
• 25 X 50 = 1,250
• 1,250 ÷ 3.75 = 333-1/3 lbs

This calculation applies to Manila or hemp rope. Other materials like jute, sisal, flax, grass, and silk are also used but may have different weight and strength characteristics.

Procedure for Creating a Square Lashing with a Thimble

1. Insert the thimble into the eye of the rope, ensuring that it is fully seated and secure.
2. Wrap the rope around the object you want to lash, ensuring it is tight and even.
3. Make two turns around the object, keeping the tension consistent throughout.
4. Cross the ends of the rope over each other to form an X shape above the object.
5. Tie a square knot (also known as a reef knot) by passing one end over and under the other, then repeating the process in reverse to secure it tightly.
6. Tighten the lashing thoroughly to ensure it is secure and will not slip.
7. Trim any excess rope if necessary for neatness and safety.

Details:
• A thimble is used to protect the eye of the rope from damage caused by friction or wear.
• Use a strong, durable rope suitable for the load being secured.
• Ensure that the lashing is tight enough to hold the object securely without causing damage.
• Square lashings with a thimble are commonly used in sailing and general rope work to secure bundles or join poles together.

Procedure for Creating a Square Plait

1. Start by laying out four strands of rope, each of equal length and thickness.
2. Cross the strands over each other to form an X shape, with two strands going from top to bottom and the other two from left to right.
3. Tie a square knot at the center where all four strands intersect, ensuring it is tight and secure.
4. Repeat the process, adding more strands as needed, by crossing them over each other and tying square knots at the intersections.
5. Continue until the plait reaches the desired size, adjusting the tension of the knots to maintain evenness in the pattern.
6. Trim any excess rope from the edges for a neat finish.

Details:
• A square plait is used for decorative purposes, as well as for practical applications such as floor mats or padding.
• Use a strong and durable rope that is appropriate for the intended use of the plait.
• Ensure that all knots are tied securely to prevent the plait from coming apart under stress.

Procedure for Creating a Wall and Crown Plait

1. Start by laying out four strands of rope, each of equal length and thickness.
2. Cross the strands over each other to form an X shape, with two strands going from top to bottom and the other two from left to right.
3. Tie a square knot at the center where all four strands intersect, ensuring it is tight and secure.
4. Repeat the process, adding more strands as needed, by crossing them over each other and tying square knots at the intersections.
5. Continue until the plait reaches the desired size, adjusting the tension of the knots to maintain evenness in the pattern.
6. Trim any excess rope from the edges for a neat finish.

Details:
• A wall and crown plait is used for decorative purposes, as well as for practical applications such as floor mats or padding.
• Use a strong and durable rope that is appropriate for the intended use of the plait.
• Ensure that all knots are tied securely to prevent the plait from coming apart under stress.

To make a Garrick bend:

1. Form a bight by laying the end of one rope on top of and across the standing part.
2. Take the end of the other rope and pass it through this bight, first down, then up, over the cross and down through the bight again, so that it comes out on the opposite side from the other end.
3. Secure by seizing the ends to the standing parts if needed.

Note: This is preeminently the best knot for joining two heavy or stiff ropes or hawsers.

To make a half-hitch and seizing:

1. Form a simple hitch within a loop as illustrated in Fig. 28.
2. Secure the ends by seizing them to the standing parts if needed.

Note: This is a secure and easy method of fastening ropes together, allowing the rope to be handled more easily and passed around a winch or coiled.

To make an ordinary knot for heavy ropes:

1. Form a simple knot in the rope.
2. Interlace the other rope or 'follow around' as shown in Fig. 20.
3. Tighten by pulling on both ends.

Note: This is very strong, will not slip, and does not strain the fibres of the rope. Ropes joined with this knot will pay out in a straight line.

Purpose: To securely fasten two ropes of even thickness together.

Steps:
1. Take the two ropes and form a loop by crossing one over the other, creating an X shape.
2. Pass the end of the right rope through the loop formed by the left rope.
3. Bring the end of the right rope up through the loop and tie it into a simple knot with the standing part of the left rope.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 on the opposite side, creating a second knot.
5. Pull both ends tight to secure the knots.

Details:
• This is particularly suitable for hawsers and steel cables.
• It can be readily undone and does not jam, unlike many other bends and knots.
• Ideal for joining two ropes of even thickness together securely.

Purpose: To join or bend two ropes of unequal thickness together with greater security than the single or double sheet bend.

Steps:
1. Take the thicker rope and form a loop by crossing it over itself, creating a bight.
2. Pass the thinner rope through the bight from one side to the other.
3. Bring the end of the thinner rope up through the bight and tie it into a simple knot with the standing part of the thicker rope.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 on the opposite side of the bight, creating a second knot.
5. Cross over the two knots to create an additional layer of security.
6. Pull both ends tight to secure the knots.

Details:
• This is similar to the double sheet bend but provides even greater security.
• It is particularly useful for joining wet ropes or in situations where additional strength and reliability are needed.
• Occasionally used for fastening the eye of a flag to its halyard, especially when flapping might undo the double sheet bend.

Purpose: To tie two ropes of equal thickness together so that they will appear to be tied with a reef knot, and will be retied with a true reef knot.

Steps:
1. Take the two ropes and cross one over the other, forming an X shape.
2. Pass the end of the right rope over the left rope and under the left rope to form a loop.
3. Bring the end of the right rope up through the loop and tie it into a simple knot with the standing part of the left rope.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 on the opposite side, creating a second knot.
5. Pull both ends tight to secure the knots.

Details:
• This knot was often used by sailors to tie their sea chests, hence the name 'thief knot'.
• It is designed so that it appears to be tied with a reef knot but can be retied with a true reef knot if needed.

Button Knot

1. Form two crossover hitches as shown in Fig. 1.
2. Pass the loop end to the left and form another loop with the free end, as illustrated.
3. With the free end, follow the lay of the rope as indicated in Fig. 2.
4. Lay the strands side by side, similar to how you would for a Turk’s Head knot.
5. Continue this process for three to five lays.
6. Work the knot tight and use the free ends to fasten the button to the garment.

Notes:
• A bootlace makes an excellent material for tying this type of button.

Shamrock Knot

1. Form the knot as you would for the true lover's knot.
2. Do not splice the bottom loop (unlike the true lover’s knot).
3. Alternatively, make a knot as shown in the top sketch.
4. Draw loop C up through loop D and loop B up through loop A to form side loops.
5. The top loop is formed naturally at E.

Notes:
• This knot can be used for forming three loops for stays on a mast.

Knotted Rope Ladder

1. Coil the length of rope in a series of half-hitches.
2. Pass the end of the rope through the center, as shown in the illustration on the right (but keep the coils close together for throwing purposes).
3. Turn the coil inside out so that succeeding coils are pulled over each other.
4. Throw the coil and allow it to pay out naturally.
5. Make a series of overhand knots at fairly equal intervals as the rope pays out.

Notes:
• This is the quickest and most efficient method for making a knotted rope ladder.

Single Rope Ladder with Chocks

1. Use chocks made of hardwood that are approximately 6" [15 cm] in diameter and 2" [5 cm] deep.
2. Bore the chocks to fit the diameter of the rope.
3. Splice an eye at the top end of the rope and seize it into a thimble for secure lashing.
4. Secure the chocks by placing two strands of seizing between the strands of the rope, then work a wall knot.
5. Alternatively, insert small pegs between the rope strands and seize the rope with a binding below the pegs.

Notes:
• This type of ladder is portable and can be made quickly.

Blood Knot – This knot requires five turns of line, with each tag end around the overlapped standing end of line. This is easy to do by making one series of turns and tucking the tag end between the two lines and then repeating with the second line. It is a good knot if the lines are not too dissimilar in diameters. It’s good for tying 15 pound test line to 20 pound test line; not good for tying 15 pound test line to 50 pound test line.

Surgeon’s Knot – This makes it easy to join two lines, but one line must be short, since you have to bring the one end through the formed overhand loop. As with other lines, use a lot of overlapping line so that you can pull on all four ends to properly pull tight. Work with both lines together as you tie this, and make sure that both loops are the same size to assure a strong knot.

In-Line Dropper – This allows you to make a loop in the middle of your line to attach a hook or other rig. Fold the line back over itself to make a loop, and then twist the two overlapping line sections four or five times. Pull the loop through this center twist. Pull tight.

Chain Plait

1. At the end of the strand, make an Overhand Knot but use a small bight at the nearby end, instead of both ends. This will leave loop 'A' as in figure 95a.
2. Through loop 'A', pull a small bight of the loose end 'B'.
3. Through the new loop thus formed, pull another bight of the loose end and so on to make figure 95b.
4. To finish, run the end through the last loop.

Overhand Knot Plait

• Whip the ends of the strands together and number them in a circle.
• Then Overhand Knot pairs of strands in the following sequences:
- With four strands: 1 with 3, 2 with 4; 1 with 3, 2 with 4, etc.
- With six strands: 1 with 4; 2 with 5, 3 with 6, etc.
- With eight strands: 1 with 4; 5 with 8; 2 with 7; 3 with 6; and so on, retaining the same sequence.